The 8 Best Composting Toilets (Guide & Reviews)

Compost toilets are the best alternative to standard flush toilets. They are perfect for off-grid locations and are completely environmentally friendly because they use zero water.

Let’s take a tour of these dry toilet systems as we bring you the 8 best composting toilets money can buy.

The 8 Best Composting Toilet Options

#1. Villa Composting Toilet


Separett Villa 9215 AC/DC

  • Composting,Waterless,Urine diverting, off-grid, toilet

First released in 2018, this Villa model is relatively new to the US market. It replaces the older version, which was extremely popular. 

The great thing about this toilet is it offers you off-grid options with a dry waste system, or you can utilize the gray water from your washbasin and drain any urine into a tank or sewer system. The solids still compost in the usual manner. 

It is constructed from high gloss polypropylene, which is hard-wearing and easy to clean. You get a 5-year warranty against manufacturing defects and a 3-year guarantee on the fan. 

The system works by separating the solids and fluids, which removes contamination. As the solid matter dries, it breaks down into compostable material. The average family should get about 3 weeks worth of use before it needs emptying. 

The fan draws air over the fecal matter, helping it to decompose and control odors, but you need to remember to connect it to a 12-volt battery if you are installing it off-grid.  

Weight (pounds) 34 
Dimensions (inches) 18.5 x 23 x 27.5
Fan Yes
Material High-gloss polypropylene
Max weight (pounds) 330
Price $$$$$
Warranty 5-year toilet, 3-year fan

#2. Stansport Portable Camp Toilet

Sale


STANSPORT Portable Camp Toilet 14 x 14 x 14 in, Green

  • Bathroom ON-THE-GO Take the comfort of a commode wherever you need with this portable camping toilet that brings all the amenities of a private restroom to the great outdoors

This Stansport camping toilet is very much an on-the-go option. It is small, lightweight, and easy to carry. It is constructed from heavy-duty plastic so that it can withstand the rigors of outdoor life. 

You can install this toilet in a tent, a camper, and even as a head on a boat. It has a full-size seat and lid and a sturdy body to conceal the sanitary bag containing the solid matter, which also makes it easier when you need to bag it and bin it.

This toilet can handle as much as 350 pounds of weight, and the two side handles make carrying it a breeze. Although it is pretty basic, it brings some comforts from your home to your tent. 

The only downside is it can leak odors as the lid doesn’t seal, so you might want to carry some cat litter or sawdust to put in the bag to minimize smells. This also helps to absorb fluids when they mix. 

Weight (pounds) 9.2
Dimensions (inches) 14 x 14 x 14
Fan No
Material Heavy-duty plastic
Max weight (pounds) 350
Price $
Warranty 1-year

#3. Nature’s Head Self Contained Composting Toilet


Nature’s Head Self Contained Composting Toilet with Close Quarters Spider Handle Design

  • No one – and I mean no one – will beat my customer service and individual support

Nature’s Head is the Rolls Royce of composting toilets. This model will set you back quite a lot of money but is a sturdy compost toilet. The unit is self-contained, with a urine bottle and a solids bin to separate the waste material. 

You also get a spider-handle agitator that mixes solid matter with the drying agent to speed the decomposition process. It has a considerable capacity too. Two people could use this every day, and it would take 4-6 weeks to fill. 

And when you need to empty the bowl, it takes no time at all. Nature’s head guarantees that this toilet is odorless and requires zero maintenance. All you need to do is place a sanitary bag inside the container and add a drying agent after emptying. 

The unit has a low-voltage, 12V fan, similar to the type you see on desktop PCs, which circulates air, drying the fecal matter and aiding the composting process. This model sits at 20 inches high, making it a comfort-height toilet. 

It means that older and taller people can use the toilet with ease. It is also a lighter unit compared to the Villa model. This one weighs just 28 pounds, making it one of the lightest compost toilets on the market.

Weight (pounds) 28
Dimensions (inches) 22 x 20.5 x 21.7
Fan Yes
Material Heavy-duty plastic
Max weight (pounds) 300
Price $$$$$
Warranty 1-year

#4. Dometic Portable Toilet


DOMETIC 1223.0154 301097206 970-Series Portable Toilet – 2.6 Gallon, Gray

  • High-strength ABS construction withstands harsh environments; smooth, easy-to-clean finish

We are sticking with the camping theme here with this Dometic portable toilet. These cube-shaped units are often referred to as “Porta-Potti” toilets. 

Unlike the proper composting toilets that separate solids from liquids, this has one collection bowl that mixes the waste material. It holds 2.6 gallons, which is 9.8 liters, so it should take a day or two to fill it. 

It has a push-button flush, a water-level indicator to tell you when the tank is nearing capacity, and an extra-long pivoting discharge spout for mess-free emptying. 

This Dometic toilet is constructed from marine-resistant ABS plastic, which is smooth and easy to clean. This model is the ideal candidate for boats, RVs, and other camping environments. 

The downside with this toilet is that it doesn’t actually compost the waste, serving instead as a holding tank for waste matter. It’s also an expensive option compared to other camping toilets, costing double the Stansport model.

Weight (pounds) 12
Dimensions (inches) 13.5 x 15.5 x 16.5
Fan No
Material Heavy-duty ABS plastic
Max weight (pounds) Not stated
Price $$
Warranty 1-year

#5. Camco Portable Travel Toilet

This is another cube-shaped camping toilet in the same vein as the Dometic. This model is larger than the Dometic, thanks to a waste tank capacity of 5.3 gallons. The flush reservoir holds 2.5 gallons and operates with a bellows-style flush.

To prevent leakages and odors, you get a sliding valve lock that seals tight. You also get a full-size seat and lid and filler cap for topping up the flush tank. 

To the side is a cap that seals the disposal spout for easy emptying, and the top and bottom sections clamp together with sturdy locks. It measures just over 16 inches in height, so it is a standard toilet size, with a weight capacity of 330 pounds. 

It is constructed from high-grade polypropylene but is lightweight when empty at just 10.8 pounds. You also get a handle for easier maneuverability when it needs to be emptied. 

Weight (pounds) 10.8
Dimensions (inches) 14 x 16 x 15.5
Fan No
Material Polypropylene 
Max weight (pounds) 330
Price $
Warranty 1-year

#6. Tooca Portable Camping Toilet

This Tooca toilet is another travel, RV, and camping option. It comes with two buckets, giving you the choice of how you use it. One bucket has a bottom and collects the waste in the traditional manner like other “Porta-Potties.”

The other option is a squat-style bag, which gives you more room inside the toilet and makes it easy to bag and bin the waste. It also means you don’t have to clean the bucket after emptying. 

This model is constructed from heavy-duty polypropylene in one complete piece for added durability, taking a maximum weight of over 440 pounds. 

The waste tank holds up to 5kg of matter; you get a clip-on phone and toilet roll holder for those who like to check their emails while sitting on the toilet. And the whole unit weighs just 6.39 pounds, making it highly portable.

The other notable thing about this portable toilet is the price. It costs less than half the Dometic model.  

Weight (pounds) 6.39
Dimensions (inches) 19.3 x 17.3 x 17.7
Fan No
Material Polypropylene 
Max weight (pounds) 440
Price $
Warranty 1-year

#7. Waterless Composting Toilet

This compost toilet functions without water or electricity, so it doesn’t use a 12V fan to control the airflow or odors. You can buy a fan as an accessory if you want to ensure there are no odors whatsoever. 

Like the other “true” compost toilets, it separates the solids from the liquids, which is crucial for an effective dry toilet system. 

It works by denying the fecal matter any moisture while using a drying agent like sawdust or coffee grinds to help dry it out. Bacteria then breaks the material down into compostable matter to spread onto your garden. 

The urine channels to the back of the toilet and out through a pipe, either to a holding tank or a soak-away.  

Instead of a fan, ventilation comes from a vent pipe that carries smells to the outside. What this toilet does is free you from any form of power to keep the contents aired. 

It means you can install this model in your cabin in the woods or even a garden room. The toilet holds a massive 11.6 gallons of waste matter, making it one of the largest capacity toilets to make the list. That’s about 50 to 100 toilet visits between emptying. 

The maximum weight capacity is 374.8 pounds. 

Weight (pounds) 24.7 
Dimensions (inches) 27.8 x 15.35 x 23.23
Fan No (fan sold separately)
Material Plastic
Max weight (pounds) 374.8
Price $
Warranty Not stated

#8. Sun-Mar Composting Toilet


SUN-MAR GTG TOILET | Portable Toilet, Compost Toilet for RV

  • COMPACT AND PORTABLE – The efficient GTG is the ideal portable toilet for camping or RV toilet use!

This Sun-Mar composting toilet comes with a built-in 12V fan for aerating the solids to help the decomposition process and reduce odors. 

You get an easy-to-remove seat and separator, making it simple to get at the waste material in the tank. Plus, it installs in a matter of minutes. 

It works by separating the liquids from the solids to allow them to dry and break down. It is also compact, measuring just 24 x 15.75 x 19.8 inches, making it the ideal toilet for small-space living and campers, RVs, and boats.

The tank holds 1.85 gallons, and the whole unit weighs 29.5 pounds. 

Weight (pounds) 29.5
Dimensions (inches) 24 x 15.75 x 19.8
Fan Yes (built-in)
Material Plastic
Max weight (pounds) Not stated
Price $$$
Warranty 5-year tank, 3-year all other parts

What Is a Composting Toilet?

A composting toilet is a dry system that uses a biological process to break down human waste without using flushing water. Solid matter sits in a holding tank and decomposes, while the liquid is separated and disposed of independently. 

How Do Composting Toilets Work?

Composting toilets work by separating solid and liquid waste. The decomposition process begins as the moisture contained within the fecal matter starts to evaporate and break down. 

A fan aerates the contents of the toilet, increasing the drying speed while eradicating odors. Drying agents like sawdust and coffee grinds are placed inside the waste bowl to absorb natural moisture and aid decay. 

Some composting toilets use an agitator, which is a metal bar that stirs the waste matter, mixing it with the drying agent to enhance composting. 

Types of Composting Toilets

There are four types of composting toilets available to buy. 

Self-Contained

This is where the toilet and composting container are one single unit. 

Remote

This is where the toilet and the composting site are separate. 

Batch

This is where waste is collected and composted in two or more separate containers. Mounted on a rotating carousel, when one tank fills, it is replaced with another. 

Continual Process

This is where the decomposition process takes place slowly in a single container, with the compost harvested from the tank in an ongoing process. 

Reasons to Use a Composting Toilet

There are many reasons to use a composting toilet. The most obvious one is when you live off-grid. Sometimes it’s not possible to have running water, so a dry system is preferred. 

You might also object to water wastage and feel a dry toilet is the best system to use for eco-friendly reasons. A standard toilet uses between 1.28 and 1.6 gallons of water per flush. Across the globe, that’s a lot of wasted water. 

Composting toilets increase your flexibility because you can fit them almost anywhere. Boats, RVs, cabins, and garden rooms are all ideal locations for a composting toilet. 

The beauty is you don’t need running water or any sort of plumbing. 

Buying Guide: Choosing the Best Composting Toilet

Want to know the key things to look for when shopping for a composting toilet? Here are some pointers.

Self-Contained or Central Units

If you live in a tiny off-grid home, you will likely choose the self-contained toilet over the one that dumps the feces into a separate tank located away from the bathroom. Self-contained toilets allow the waste matter to decompose within the toilet. 

Central units require more effort when installing the toilet because you have to bury a tank below the floor so that gravity can do its thing and drop the solids into the container. 

Capacity

When thinking about capacity, consider who and how many people will use the toilet. Most compost toilets have a holding tank with a capacity range from 5 to 11 gallons. 

Nature’s Head boasts that their toilet will take 4 to 6 weeks to fill with two people using it every day. If you opt for a central tank system, that could extend to months. 

Maintenance

Standard toilets require minimal maintenance. As long as you clean them, that’s about the extent of regular attention they need. With a composting toilet, it gets a bit more involved. 

The container needs regularly emptying for one thing; plus, you need to add a drying agent like peat moss, coffee grinds, or sawdust to aid the composting process and reduce smells. 

You also have to dispose of the urine and keep the bottles clean, as well as the inner bucket and agitator if you have one. 

Ease of Installation

The good news is, for the most part, composting toilets are easy to install. They require minimal plumbing or electrical knowledge, making them ideal for novices. 

Compare the difference when installing a standard toilet, and you can see why they are so simple to fit in your new home. 

Dimensions

Composting toilets are cumbersome compared to standard models. Make sure you have the clearance before attempting to fit one in your new bathroom. You might find its chunkiness makes for a snug fit.

Once you have chosen the toilet you want, the best advice is to measure twice before purchasing to save you hassle later down the line. 

Electrical Vs. Non-Electrical

Electrical composting toilets require a minimal power supply to operate the 12V fan. The fan keeps the solids aerated and improves the drying process. You can connect the fan to a leisure battery, similar to the type you find in an RV or camper. 

Non-electric composting toilets use a vent that channels the smells outside. The great news is you can install them anywhere. So, if you have a cabin deep in the woods, this is the type you should choose. 

Price Range

Composting toilets are by far the most expensive off-grid toilets you can buy. When you compare the cost of the Villa model to a standard toilet, the figures are eye-watering. 

You can spend many hundreds of dollars when shopping for the right composting toilet. These eco-friendly waste management systems are not budget options. 

How to Install a Composting Toilet

The first thing you need to do is measure the space to make sure the toilet fits. Once you have confirmed this, make sure the floor is even and free from obstructions. Slide the toilet into position and make sure that nothing is blocking the fan.

Ensure there are no tight bends in the venting system and that it reaches the outside wall in the most efficient way possible. This stops odors from backing up and seeping into the bathroom. 

Measure the height of the vent pipe and line it up with the wall. If you are cutting through a cabin wall, hold the vent outlet to the wall and draw a pencil line around the pipe’s circumference. Grab the drill and cut the hole. 

Connect the fan to the battery. It is recommended that all fans are installed using a ground fault interrupt circuit to prevent power surges from blowing the fan motor. 

Maintenance Tips for Composting Toilets

Maintaining your composting toilet ensures that smells are kept to a minimum, and it stays in tip-top condition for as long as possible. So, what are the tips to follow?

Inspect the Toilet Every Month

Give your toilet a once-over every month to ensure the seals are in good order and that the waste tanks are kept clean. Many things can damage your toilet, especially damp and extreme cold. 

Clean the Fan

The fan works 24/7, aerating the waste tank so it gets dirty with dust and debris. Grab an old toothbrush and sweep away any dirt on the fan blades. If the contamination is heavy, use a vacuum nozzle. 

Keep the Urine Bottles Clean

Urine smells, so you must keep the bottles clean after you empty them. Use warm water and a few dabs of washing detergent. Seal the lid and give them a good shake to disperse the detergent over the entire inner surface. 

If you are cleaning stubborn stains, leave the bottle overnight. Adding a spoonful of sugar can neutralize odors inside the bottle. 

Don’t Use Chemicals 

Chemicals upset the delicate balance of bacteria inside your toilet. That hampers the decomposition process and pollutes the fecal matter inside. 

Use warm water and natural soap. Sensitive skin soaps are a great idea because many use natural ingredients to minimize skin flare-ups, so if they are gentle on your skin, they’ll be fine on your toilet. 

Best Composting Toilet FAQs

What is the best composting toilet on the market?

It’s a matter of opinion, but the Nature’s Head model gets a lot of plaudits. It tops most reviews thanks to a built-in fan, top-quality materials, and a zero smells guarantee. However, Nature’s Head is one of the more expensive toilets available. 

How much does a composting toilet cost?

You can spend anything from less than $100 to over $1,000. You get what you pay for, so if you just want a bag and bin it toilet, the budget models are fine. However, when installing a composting toilet in your home, go for the best model money can buy. 

Do composting toilets smell bad?

As long as you use the correct drying agents and follow the composting procedure correctly, you should not suffer from smells. The 12V fan removes odors and aerates the solid matter, speeding the composting process. 

Make sure you avoid urine contamination wherever possible. Keeping the solids wet increases the smells and turns to sewerage. 

Do you need electricity for a composting toilet?

You do need electricity if you have a toilet with a 12V fan. 

Do you put toilet paper in a composting toilet

Yes and no. If you use recycled toilet paper or dedicated composting paper, you can safely drop it into the waste tank along with your feces. It has looser fibers that break apart easier. 

If you use 3-ply, super-quilted paper, think again. This type of toilet paper is slow to break apart, slowing the composting process. If you use an agitator, that becomes clogged when you turn the handle. 

Where should I empty a composting toilet?

As long as the composition procedure is observed, you can empty the contents of your toilet into your garden compost pile. You could also bury the waste in the garden, under your prized rose. 

Some areas allow you to double bag the waste matter and dispose of it in the trash, although why would you do this if you have a garden?

How often do you have to empty a composting toilet?

It depends on how heavily it gets used, but most composting toilets will last a couple of weeks before they need emptying. 

Nature’s Head claims their toilet only needs emptying every 4 to 6 weeks based on two people using it every day. 

Can I use a composting toilet the same way I use a traditional model?

Composting toilets are not the same as traditional toilets and need to be used differently. They are dry systems, which means you need to separate solids from fluids. You also need to consider which toilet paper you use. 

You don’t flush a compost toilet, so the waste sits in the container and decomposes. You will need to empty the toilet periodically, unlike a standard model that flushes away to a sewer. 

The other crucial thing to remember is if you are a man, you should pee sitting down to allow the urine to channel into the fluid bottle. Keeping splashes away from the fecal matter is crucial to avoid cross-contamination. 

Toilet Talk

Composting toilets are not everyone’s cup of tea. The idea that you store and empty human waste is too horrifying to contemplate for some. 

The truth is far tamer. You smell nothing and see only an earthy mix inside the container, which is a far cry from how you might imagine it looks. 

If you want to save water, get a compost toilet. If you live off-grid, get a compost toilet. If you have an RV or camper with enough space, get a compost toilet.

The 8 Best Upflush Toilets (Guide & Reviews)

The best upflush toilet can perform gravity-defying feats. Traditional systems use gravity to remove waste matter, but with an upflush toilet, you get a whole new proposition. 

And because they don’t rely on height, you can pretty much install them anywhere in the house. It makes them the ideal choice of toilet when retrofitting an en-suite or adding to an elderly relative’s in-room facilities. 

The 10 Best Upflush Toilet Options

With so many upflush toilets to choose from, getting the right model can be a challenge. Here is our take of the 8 best upflush toilets. 

#1. Saniflo SaniPLUS Macerating Upflush Toilet Kit

Saniflo SaniPLUS: Macerating Upflush Toilet Kit (with Standard Bowl)

  • BENEFIT : Install a bathroom anywhere without breaking up the floor!

Saniflo is the leading brand of upflush toilets. This system installs anywhere with a minimum of fuss, which massively reduces the overall costs.

It has an elongated bowl, making it a more comfortable experience, especially for men when they sit down, and the standard height bowl is ideal for the kids

This Saniflo is fitted with a macerator, which is a fan that spins the blades at 3,600 revolutions per minute, and the pump can shift waste material along a pipe of 150 feet in length and up to 12 feet in height.

Saniflo boasts that their systems should give you between 10 and 15 years of hassle-free service and that they test them rigorously by performing 50,000 cycles and10 flushes per day, which is the equivalent of 3,650 per year. 

Pros

  • Well-known brand.
  • Elongated bowl.
  • Lasts 10 to 15 years.
  • Minimal maintenance.
  • Arduously tested.

Cons

  • Expensive.
  • Lower vertical lift than others.

#2. Saniflo SaniBEST Pro Macerating Upflush Toilet Kit

Saniflo Sanibest Pro: Macerating Upflush Toilet Kit (with Elongated Bowl)

  • kit include : Sanibest Pro #013, elongated bowl (#087) and tank (#005)

This model has an elongated bowl, which is better for disabled and older people as it enhances the comfort factor. Plus, it complies with the American Disability Act (ADA) because the height of the seat is 18 inches. 

The tank has an easy-access panel for swift maintenance and servicing to keep your toilet in perfect working order. The motor casing is an improved design, making the volume of the macerator much quieter.

This SaniBEST model is more powerful than the previous one in that it pumps up to 18 feet below the sewer line and 150 feet to the nearest soil stack. It means you can fit this toilet in a basement without too much fuss. 

The impeller spins at 3,600 RPM, macerating the waste matter into tiny pieces to squeeze them along the 1-inch diameter pipework. 

The flush uses 1.6 gallons of water, which is not ideal if you care about conserving resources. High-efficiency standard toilets flush as little as 1.0 to 1.28 gallons per flush.

You also get a 2-year warranty, but if you fill in the warranty registration form online, you can extend this by a further 3 years. 

Pros 

  • Comfort height.
  • Elongated bowl.
  • 18 ft vertical lift.
  • Complies with the ADA

Cons

  • Uses a lot of water.
  • Expensive.

#3. Saniflo SaniACCESS Macerator Pump with Elongated Toilet

This is the third Saniflo toilet to feature, and this one operates at 15 feet below the sewer line, pushing waste along a 1-inch pipe for 150 feet. 

The macerator motor generates 0.50 horsepower and is oil-filled and thermally protected. The casing is also sealed for life to protect the lifespan of the engine. 

This model is a lot greener than most macerator toilets because it flushes at 1.28 gallons, making it a high-efficiency toilet. You can also plumb it to accept wastewater from basins and bathtubs to flush with the gray water. 

This increases the toilet’s green credentials and reduces your water usage further, saving you money. Blockages are also dealt with quickly, thanks to a service panel that gives you clear access to the impeller. 

Once again, it has the same elongated bowl shape for increased comfort, and the height of the seat just scrapes into the ADA compliance standards at 16.75 inches. 

Pros 

  • ADA compliant.
  • Elongated seat.
  • Eco-friendly flush.
  • 15 ft vertical lift.

Cons

  • Expensive.

#4. Hocanflo Macerating Toilet System with Pump and Pipe

Upflush Macerating Toilet System with 500 Watt Macerator Pump and Extension Pipe Between Toilet and Pump, Silent Seat Cover Round Bowl, Nano Glaze Finish

  • Now you can get the advanced macerator pump of 700 watt(ASIN: B08K75VF3S)in our store, With HOCANFLO macerating pump, you can installed the toilet anywhere without heavy construction.

This is the perfect upflush toilet if you want to install a basement toilet because it vertically flushes over 19 feet in height. And equally impressive is the horizontal lift of 197 feet. 

It has an in-built non-return valve to stop a backward flow of waste matter and a 500-watt macerator pump with a stainless steel impeller. The 3-piece set consists of a macerator pump, the toilet, and the tank. 

You also get a soft-close toilet seat and an extension pipe to increase the distance between the macerator pump and toilet. The Maximum rated water flow is 1,750 gallons per hour. 

Maintenance and cleaning are easier with this toilet, thanks to the Nano Glaze coating on the inside of the toilet bowl that reduces the resistance of the waste material, allowing it to wash away without leaving marks. 

You also get a 1-year manufacturer’s warranty for peace of mind.

Pros

  • 19 ft vertical lift.
  • 197 ft horizontal lift.
  • Soft-close seat.
  • 500-watt macerator pump.

#5. Saniflo Two Piece Round Bowl Toilet with Macerating Pump

This Saniflo 2-piece toilet stands 18 inches in height, making it the ideal toilet for taller people or older relatives who have difficulty standing and sitting down. The increased dimensions improves the comfort levels of the user. 

It comes as a 2-piece design, so fitting it is a lot easier than 3-piece models. If you have a limited ability in plumbing and DIY, this is the toilet to get. 

The downside with this model is the round bowl. Round bowls are less comfortable and make it more of a challenge for some men to urinate sitting down. 

Pros

  • 2-piece set.
  • Comfort height.
  • Round seat.

Cons

  • Not suitable for everyone.

#6. Sanimove Macerator Pump Toilet

For those who want the most eco-friendly toilet, where water usage is so frugal, this Sanimove is the one to get. It only uses 0.75 gallons of water per flush on the eco setting, which is pretty impressive. 

You can choose the 1.0-gallon flush option if you need that little bit of extra force to clear away solid waste matter. 

This is a tankless system, meaning that the water comes directly from the mains supply when you flush. It drastically reduces the toilet’s dimensions, increasing its versatility, especially in the smallest spaces. 

If you are considering converting your under stairs space, think about this model of toilet. 

This Sanimove is also among the most impressive for lift, thanks to the 600-watt motor. It rises vertically up to 20 feet and horizontally up to 160 feet. The other great news is the price. It retails at half the cost of the Saniflo models. 

The other pleasing thing about this Sanimove toilet is the comfort height. It conforms to ADA directives, making it the perfect tankless toilet for disabled and mobility-challenged people. 

Pros 

  • Dual flush.
  • Eco-friendly.
  • Tankless toilet.
  • 20 ft vertical rise.

Cons

  • Cannot plumb into sinks or bathtubs.
  • Tankless design not to everyone’s taste. 

#7. Flo500 Upflush Macerating Toilet Kit

FLO500 Upflush Macerating Toilet Kit with 500Watt Macerator Pump and Extension Pipe Between Toilet and Pump, Silent Seat Cover Round Bowl White Finish

  • New Model 500W maceraotr pump constructed with strong electric motor and copper wires inside, and thanks to the stainless steel non clog blades which provides a low noise flush operating work.

This Flo500 turns in the most impressive stats when it comes to flow. It vertically lifts waste up to 24 feet and horizontally up to 240 feet. 

It has a rated flow of 1,750 gallons per hour and a 500-watt macerator to chew through the most robust waste matter. The impeller rotates at 3,600 revolutions per minute, and thanks to the 20-inch seat height, this model is ideal for those less mobile. 

The ADA guidelines stipulate that for a toilet to qualify as suitable for disabled and mobility-challenged people, it must be between 17 and 19 inches. So, this toilet easily meets that brief. 

The non-clog impeller blades are stainless steel and run at a lower volume to reduce the noise the toilet makes. This is important when catering to light sleepers. You also get a soft-close toilet seat to banish lid-slamming in the dead of night.

The downside with a 20-inch height is it makes it more difficult for children and shorter people to sit comfortably on this toilet. 

Pros

  • 24 ft vertical rise.
  • 240 ft horizontal lift.
  • 20-inch seat height.
  • Non-clog impeller.

Cons

  • Height not suitable for everyone.

#8. Silent Venue White Upflush Toilet System

Silent Venus White Upflush Toilet (2-Piece Kit) – Macerating Toilet System with Round-Front Standard Bowl – Powerful Upflush Toilet For Basement (Two-Piece Toilet)

  • ㅕENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY: This style is (SVT200) also a worthwhile investment that saves money (and trees!) on toilet paper.

Continuing the quiet theme, this Silent Venus macerator toilet operates at 39 decibels, which is the equivalent to library noise or low bird calls. That’s pretty impressive if you are concerned about waking the kids when you flush at night. 

The vertical discharge is 19 feet, and the horizontal lift reaches 196 feet so that you can place this model anywhere in the house. 

The powerful 400-watt motor drives the non-clog stainless steel impeller to mash through the harshest matter. Unlike most that feature, this toilet has a round bowl, which is much more in keeping with traditional designs. 

The disadvantage of this shape is that it can be less comfortable to use, and many men may experience some difficulty when going to the toilet sitting down. Round bowls increase the risk of spillages. 

On the plus side, It comes as a 2-piece with a 1-year manufacturer’s warranty, and you get a motion-activated toilet light that has 8 color choices to turn your ablutions into a disco experience. 

Pros

  • 19 ft vertical rise.
  • 196 ft horizontal lift.
  • 400-watt motor.
  • 2-piece set.
  • Super-quiet.

Cons

  • Round bowl.

What Is an Upflush Toilet?

Traditional toilets use gravity to remove waste material from your toilet. For this reason, they cannot be installed below the sewer line and almost always need an elevated position to flush effectively.

They also use wider pipework, which requires significant upheaval when retrofitting a new space. You would almost certainly need to call in the professionals, which ramps up the costs.  

An upflush toilet is different because it includes an impeller and a pump that macerates the waste into smaller chunks and pumps the material along thin pipes. 

The thin pipework and the fact you can vertically lift the effluenc to heights of 12, 15 and, even 24 feet, and along pipes, 150 feet in length means you can install these toilets anywhere in the house. 

You can even install upflush toilets in basements below the sewer line.

How Do Macerating Toilets Work?

Behind the toilet bowl sits a macerating unit that consists of a pump and a stainless steel impeller. When you push the flush button, the water carries the solid waste along a pipe into the macerator. 

The impeller spins at about 3,600 RPM, chewing the solids and toilet paper into smaller pieces, that when mixed with water, turns into pulp. This then gets pumped along the outlet pipe towards the soil stack and the sewer. 

In basement installations, the matter is pumped vertically to the soil stack and into the sewer system. 

Reasons to Use an Upflush Toilet

There are plenty of reasons when an upflush toilet comes in handy, but let’s discuss their main uses.

If you have an older relative coming to stay, either as a guest or on a permanent basis, you will need to cater to their mobility needs. You could locate them in a ground-floor room, but that still means they will likely need to climb the stairs to get to the toilet. 

When installing an uplift toilet for a disabled or mature relative, you should take note of the American Disability Act (ADA) that stipulates the minimum accepted height for a toilet to be ADA approved. 

They recommend the seat height should range between 17 and 19 inches. The reason is that at this height, it makes sitting and standing less of a challenge for people with mobility issues. 

The downside is this height is often too tall for shorter people and smaller children. So, you will need to bear this in mind when weighing up the pros and cons of your new toilet. 

A macerating upflush toilet frees you to install it anywhere inside the home. You are not a slave to plumbing because, as is frequently observed, the best places to fit a toilet are in some of the least convenient locations for plumbing.

You can solve all your problems by fitting an upflush toilet in your relative’s room as an en-suite. And the best bit is the pipes are a fraction of the diameter of traditional plumbing, making it less intrusive and easier to fit. 

You might also want to fit a toilet in a garage or a garden room to make it more convenient. 

Buying Guide: Choosing the Best Macerating Toilet

Choosing the best upflush toilet can be a tricky process, so knowing what elements are important is crucial. Here are our top considerations. 

Ease of Installation

The main reason you would choose an upflush toilet is the ease of how it installs. You don’t need to dig up pipework or cut channels into walls and floors. It also reduces the time it takes to fit a toilet, making it possible to complete an upgrade over the weekend.

It also removes the need for you to call in a qualified plumber and the extra expense that comes with it. What could cost thousands now only costs your time and effort. 

Toilet Location

Upflush toilets do precisely what they say on the box. They push waste matter vertically toward soil stacks. So, deciding where to locate your new macerating toilet is crucial. If you need a lift of 15 feet, make sure you choose a model that can exceed this level.

You should also keep one eye on the distance the debris has to travel horizontally. If you want the toilet at the back of the house at the furthest point from the soil stack, you will need to get one that pushes the waste far enough to reach the sewer. 

Eco-Friendly

Most upflush toilets use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. This is not as eco-friendly as most high-efficiency standard toilets that use between 1.0 and 1.28 gallons. If you want to manage water usage, one feature to look for is a dual flush facility. 

It gives you the ability to use a light flush option for water waste and then switch to the heavy setting for solid matter. Single-flush models flush at the same rate no matter what the application and so waste more water.  

Identify Your Needs

Decide who the toilet is for and where you want to use it. If it’s for children or older relatives, consider the mobility factors of the users. Children might be better with smaller toilets, while adults prefer taller seats. 

Also, think about the shape of the bowl. Elongated bowls are more comfortable for adults and men to use because the extra length reduces the possibility of accidents and spillages. 

Height is another important factor. The American Disability Act dictates that comfort height toilets should range between 17 and 19 inches, making them more accessible for mobility-challenged people to sit and stand. 

Standard upflush toilets range between 13 and 16 inches. 

What’s Your Budget?

You cannot hide from the fact that upflush toilets are expensive compared to standard models. You can purchase a gravity-fed toilet for as little as a couple of hundred dollars, whereas an upflush model could set you back over $1,000 or more.

It seems that all that added convenience comes at a cost! However, you do save on the installation costs.

Maintenance Tips for Upflush Toilets

What are the best practices for keeping your upflush toilet in good working order? Let’s find out.

Yearly Maintenance

Descale the toilet annually, using 1 to 2 liters of toilet cleaner and macerator descaler. Pour it into the bowl, or use the trap door in the macerator if you have one installed. Turn on the macerator pump for a few seconds to allow the cleaner to circulate. 

Now turn off the macerator and allow the fluid to work for 2 hours. When the time limit ends, flush the toilet again, and the detergent washes away. 

Use Eco-Friendly Toilet Paper

Americans have a long-lasting love affair with triple-ply, quilted toilet tissue. This is a death sentence for macerators, as they clog easily when they struggle to chew through the thick paper. 

Choose a thinner option that biodegrades more easily when it comes into contact with water. We realize that this may not afford your backside the luxury it has become accustomed to, but it is a macerating toilet after all. 

The pipework is typically 1 to 2 inches in diameter, so the macerator has its work cut out chewing the waste material into small pieces so it can travel the narrow channel towards the soil stack without blocking. 

Discard the Plunger

Don’t use a plunger on an upflush toilet if you get a blockage because the force of the water could damage the impeller and the macerator motor. Use toilet cleaning products as above and wait for the backup to clear naturally.

Check Your Manual

While we advocate using cleaning products, you should check the manual for exact instructions on what is suitable to use. Some bleaches damage the impellers and the rubber seals. 

Some manufacturers, like Saniflo, produce their own branded cleaning agents designed to care for their toilets and keep them working for longer. 

Best Upflush Toilet FAQs

What is the best Upflush toilet?

The best upflush toilet depends on what you want it for and the specifications. By far, the most popular models are Saniflo toilets, but the performance levels vary between makes and models. 

The best upflush toilets are the ones that push the highest vertically, the furthest horizontally, and use the least amount of water without hampering the performance.

The shape is another reason to love your upflush toilet. Round bowls are becoming increasingly rare because elongated bowls offer a more comfortable user experience. The elderly prefer the shape, as do adults, because accidents are less likely to occur. 

What is the best toilet for a basement bathroom?

When installing a macerating toilet in the basement, you need to consider the vertical lift limits. Cellars typically sit below the sewer line, so you need a toilet that can lift your waste material high enough to reach the soil stack and the sewer. 

Some upflush toilets have an impressive rise of 15, 18, and even 20 foot plus. This is more than enough to cope with a basement installation. 

How well do Upflush toilets work?

Upflush toilets are as reliable as standard toilets as long as you treat them with respect. Macerators cope with most material, including solid waste and toilet paper; however, the type of toilet paper you use determines how well the toilet works. 

Because of the slimmer diameter of the pipework, it is crucial you use toilet paper that degrades and pulps when it comes into contact with water. Many quilted and 3-ply rolls are not suitable because the fibers are too tightly woven to breakdown. 

How much does it cost to install an Upflush toilet?

It doesn’t cost that much to install an upflush toilet because you can channel the pipework above ground, removing the need for expensive plumbing work. Most of the fittings snap into place with minimal fuss. 

You don’t need to employ a professional plumber unless you are so unsure of your DIY abilities, but for most, it should be a reasonably simple task. 

Let’s Hear It For The Upflush

Upflush toilets are all about convenience. They increase your flexibility and versatility when deciding where to install a new toilet. You can transform any space, be it an en-suite or a utility toilet in a bedroom for an elderly relative. 

The best thing about upflush toilets is they require very little heavy-duty remodeling to make them fit the space. The pipework is narrow and unobtrusive, and the vertical and horizontal lift of these toilets is immense. 

The only black mark with upflush toilets is the initial purchase costs. They are not a budget option, costing several times the price of a standard gravity-fed toilet. Bear that in mind when you start your search. 

What Is a Vault Toilet?

Vault toilets are an effective and simple solution for providing a permanent bathroom in rural areas with no running water. 

These toilets are inside a small room, with a toilet positioned on a concrete slab floor. An underground tank or vault stores the waste in an airtight compartment that blocks odor. This waste must be routinely pumped out by a waste management company and transported to a wastewater treatment plant. Vault toilets are hygienic, environmentally friendly, and effective.

What Is a Vault Toilet?

Vault toilets are a better alternative to using portable bathrooms like Porta Potties. For a toilet to classify as a vault, there has to be a vault (storage tank) stored underground that holds the waste. 

The vault can be plastic, concrete, or the most popular choice for its environmental safety, reinforced cross-linked polyethylene, ranging in size from 1,000 gallons up to 13,000. The criteria to serve as a vault for human waste is that it won’t leak, crack, or degrade while buried. 

To install a vault toilet, the vault goes underground with a concrete slab poured over the top that serves as a foundation for your bathroom floor and a base for the walls. The building can be wood, polyethylene, concrete, or other materials. Many look like mini log cabins.

A toilet goes inside over the drainage hole in the slab. There’s also a vent pipe, which keeps the room odor-free. 

These toilets can be a single, double, or unisex setup. Vault toilets have an advantage over porta-potties because they’re more hygienic, permanent, and sturdy. They rarely have a bad smell because the waste is stored underground instead of inside a tank under the toilet, and the vent allows fresh air circulation.

Where Are Vault Toilets Used?

Vault toilets are not a typical home bathroom option. These toilets are most common for rural locations where there’s the need for bathrooms but no running water to source plumbing. Vault toilets don’t flush, so there’s no need for water.

These toilets are often a public bathroom solution for recreational spots, parks, hiking trails, campgrounds, and national historic sites. Many people also refer to vault toilets as camping toilets. According to the U.S. Forest Service, they’re “sweet-smelling toilets.”

How Much Does a Vault Toilet Cost?

The cost to install a vault toilet varies from $500 up to $5,000. This price includes the labor and materials necessary for installation. 

Installing a vault toilet is not a complicated process, so a lot of it can be done without having to hire expert specialists. You may need someone with experience to set up the vent line, but digging the hole and setting the vault can be done by anyone who can handle a shovel.

Building the foundation structure is also easy enough for anyone with experience constructing a building and knows how to cut the materials properly. 

Pouring the concrete slab can be a DIY job if you have experience. Otherwise, you may want to leave it up to an expert, so you have a smooth, properly cured concrete slab.

How Does a Vault Toilet Work?

Vaulted toilets have a simple operation. There’s no need for running water or flushing the toilet to remove the waste. Since there’s no water, there are no water pipes to transfer the waste. 

Instead, the human waste goes underground, where it goes into a leak-proof, airtight vault that varies in size. The size of the tank determines how often it needs emptying.

To remove the tank’s waste, professional waste management staff drain the vault using a specialized tank intended for storing human waste. These remains then go to a wastewater plant for proper disposal. 

The Forest Service calls these toilets “sweet-smelling toilets” because the vent built into the structure pulls out the smelly vapors. Chemicals added into the vault can help prevent the foul stench of decaying waste, but even these smells can turn sour.

The vent also allows fresh air to flow into the room, pushing out the bad smells. But when the wind isn’t blowing, it can cause a “green cloud” to form due to lack of moving ventilation. Sun exposure on the vent pipe is crucial for helping pull out smells by warming the rising air. 

If you build a vault toilet in a secluded area where trees block most of the sunlight, you may run into problems with ventilating your vault toilet. 

Pros and Cons of Vault Toilets

There are numerous pros and a few downsides of using vault toilets as a source of public bathrooms in secluded or rural areas where there’s no water to allow for standard plumbing.

One of the biggest downsides of vault toilets is their need for direct sunlight for the vent to operate correctly. In the winter or during rainy seasons, when there’s little sun, things can get smelly. Overly populated groves of trees can also cause an issue with blocking the sun.

Another issue about using vault toilets is that they can become blocked up due to typical bathroom garbage disposals such as toilet paper, feminine products, and other trash. It’s best to post clear warnings to deter these actions. 

And finally, the riser inside the vault can rise as it gets full, exposing the vault’s wastes. It can be quite a repulsive sight that can be expensive to repair.

Now that we’ve discussed the cons let’s take a look at the many reasons why vault toilets are a fantastic solution for public toilets.

Privacy

One benefit of building single vault toilet structures is that it provides the user with more privacy than going into a bathroom lined with multiple stalls.

Low Maintenance

Another benefit of vault toilets is their low maintenance needs. Since there’s no water, you don’t have to worry about leaking or busted pipes, rust stains, clogged toilets, or overflowing.

Depending on the size, most vault toilets need to be drained and sanitized every two to three weeks. And the inclusion of a well-placed vent can prevent horrible smells, reducing the need for air fresheners or a clothespin to the nose.

Affordable

Vault toilets are an affordable solution. There’s no water usage, so there’s no water bill. The easy maintenance means there are few cleaning necessities. Even building a vault toilet from scratch can cost less than a few thousand dollars.

The only real expense you incur with vault toilets is having to pay a professional service to drain and clean your vault once or twice a month.

Convenient

Vault toilets are an excellent and preferred alternative to Porta Potties, primarily due to their better ventilation and sanitation. 

And since there’s no water required, you can set these up anywhere, making them preferable for recreational centers and parks.

Tips for Surviving a Vault Toilet Experience

Your first experience with a vault toilet may make you feel incredibly grateful for your modern plumbing at home. And you may walk away with mad respect for our ancestors who had to use these outhouses as a permanent bathroom solution for hundreds of years. 

To help you survive a vault toilet experience, we’ve gathered a few helpful tips. Following these suggestions can keep you safe and unscarred from your vault toilet experience.

  • Examine the surroundings before entering. Since most vault toilets are in rural areas, check for flies, spiders, wasps and other stinging insects, and snakes. 
  • Another suggestion is always to bring toilet paper. There’s no guarantee the vault toilets get regularly checked. You might be SOL without TP. Or, you’ll be stuck with the thin one-ply kind that leaves you chafed and unclean.
  • Show respect for other users by not putting the trash into the toilet. Feminine products and other trash can cause blockages. Bring a small trash bag to dispose of any trash, as many toilets will not have a garbage can.
  • There may or might not be a working sink in vault toilets. At a minimum, bring hand sanitizer to clean your hands. You could also bring a bottle of water and a small bar or bottle of liquid hand soap.

4 Ways to Reduce Bad Odors From a Vault Toilet

Positioning a vault house in a location where the vent gets an ideal amount of sunlight is one of the best ways to reduce odors. The wind is your second best way to remove foul odors.

But there’s going to be times when the vault house doesn’t get an adequate amount of wind and vent. Here are four additional ways to reduce odors from a vault toilet.

  • Light a match or strike a lighter and hold it up to the vent. The flame will react with the gases, eliminating the odor.
  • Add an organic filler into the vault. This material will transform the ammonia and hydrogen sulfide – what causes the smell – into nitrogen gas, which is odorless.
  • You can also deodorize the gas with activated carbon.
  • Some places decide to bury long pipes that move the vault’s wastes to an uninhabited area, like deep forest areas.

Pit Toilets vs. Vault Toilets

Many people get confused about the difference between pit toilets and vault toilets. They have the same basic concept of a toilet that neither needs water. 

But with vault toilets, the waste stores in an underground container, which is routinely drained and sanitized to remove the waste. On the other hand, pit toilets have a trench dug under the toilet where the waste goes. This waste stays in the hole and decomposes into compost.

Vault Toilet Alternatives

Some vault toilets are so horrendous and terrifying that you’d rather skip a bathroom break all together than risk walking in the door. There are alternatives you can use if you want to avoid the potential horrors of a vault. 

Cassette 

Cassette toilets are a small portable commode that you can take along for use in vans, tents, RVs, or boats. These devices work by attaching a toilet lid to a removable waste storage tank. 

You can empty these after each use or full by dumping the wastes in a regular toilet or transporting them to a waste dump station. Most campgrounds have these facilities on site. Replace the tank on the toilet when empty.

Compost

Composting toilets are a dry toilet that does not require water to flush. The waste empties into a bin that’s filled with sawdust or peat moss. These ingredients cause the waste material to turn into compost. 

You can then use this compost on your flower beds. It’s not for use in vegetable gardens or on any plants that humans will consume.

How to Maintain Your Vault Toilet

All types of toilets, including vault styles, can attract disease-carrying organisms and harmful bacteria. It’s essential to keep your vault toilet sanitized and regularly emptied. 

Another way to keep a vault toilet sanitized and safe is to add septic treatments. A great option is RTB 760, which will disinfect the space.

Conclusion

Vault toilets are an everyday staple on campgrounds, national parks, and properties run by the U.S. Forest Service, and road stop rest areas. Some of these toilets are well maintained and have a “sweet smell” due to proper ventilation. But others can be terrifying enough to come right out of a Hollywood horror scene. We’ve told you everything to know about vault toilets. 

9 Reasons Why Your Water Heater Pilot Light Won’t Stay Lit (& How to Fix)

One of the best modern inventions we take for granted is having hot water at our disposal at any time we want it. So, it’s safe to say that the water heater is one of your most prized appliances.

The water heater operates due to a pilot light that helps heat the water stored in the water tank. When your pilot light fails, you end up with cold water. We’ve found nine reasons your water heater won’t stay lit. We’ll also explain how to fix the problem.

There are multiple parts you can test and replace yourself without having to seek out professional help. However, there are a few components that will require expert knowledge to repair. We list whether the repair is DIY or professional for each cause below.

1. Dirty Pilot Tube

One possible cause of a malfunctioning pilot light could be a dirty pilot tube. When dirt or other debris builds up in the tube, it can cause a blockage that prevents the gas from passing through the line

If there’s not enough gas reaching the pilot light, the pilot will not be able to light or stay lit. If you can’t get your pilot to light or stay on, examine your pilot tube for blocks or buildup.

How to Fix

Repairing a clogged pilot tube is one of the easiest fixes on the list. You can insert a needle into the pilot’s hole and remove any buildup. Depending on the tube’s dirtiness, you may have to use the needle multiple times to get the line completely clean. 

Once finished cleaning, you can attempt to light your pilot. If the flame stays lit and glows blue, you’ve fixed the problem.

2. Kink in the Flex Tube

Another common issue that can cause a faulty pilot light is a kinked flex tube. A kinked flex tube is one of the most common reasons for a malfunctioning pilot light after a bad thermocouple. 

If you’ve confirmed that your pilot tube isn’t dirty, examine your flex tubes. The flex tube transfers the gas from the controller to the pilot light so it can ignite. At times, this tube can kink up, preventing gas from flowing correctly. 

How to Fix

A kinked flex tube is probably the simplest issue to fix. Check the flex tube hose to see if there are any twists, breaks, or pinched areas. 

If the tube has twists or kinks, that may be blocking the gas from getting to the pilot light, resulting in a faulty pilot. Untwisting the line should make the pilot light resume working. 

3. Flex Tube Defects

A defective flex tube can also cause issues with your pilot light not staying lit. If the line is faulty, there may be cracks, breaks, or other damage that prevent the gas from reaching the pilot light. 

Over time, these flex tubes can also become corroded or spring leaks due to pressurization. A leaky pipe can be dangerous and frustrating.

How to Fix

The best course of action to fix a defective flex tube is to replace the entire line. You can usually find a replacement part from the manufacturer, your local home repair or hardware store, or online. 

Be sure you get the correct replacement parts, as using the wrong part can cause you to continue having a defective pilot light.

4. Obstruction or Dirt in the Thermocouple

A malfunctioning thermocouple is the most common reason why a pilot light won’t stay lit. You can experience multiple issues with a thermocouple, the small copper rod that connects to the pilot light.

One possible problem that you should check is if there is dirt or other obstructions in the thermocouple. The thermocouple controls the gas flow when the pilot light is off. 

When there’s debris on the thermocouple, it can cause a mixed signal that convinces the coupler that the pilot light is out. This issue causes the gas to stop flowing.

How to Fix

Examine the thermocouple to see if you notice any dirt buildup on or around the probe. If there’s evidence of anything blocking the thermocouple, wait until the coupler has cooled. 

Then rub the surface with sandpaper (fine-grit) to get rid of any buildup. If a dirty thermocouple is causing the issue, sanding the grit away should fix it. Try relighting your water heater to see if the pilot will stay lit.

5. Bent Thermocouple

The thermocouple is a crucial component of your water heater and when it fails, so does your heater’s ability to produce hot water. 

If the thermocouple gets bent, it may cause the sensor to be out of reach of the pilot light. When there’s too much space between the thermocouple sensor and the pilot light, you won’t be able to get a spark for ignition. 

How to Fix

To fix a bent thermocouple, start by examining the part’s location. If the thermocouple is in the right spot, the sensor’s end should contact the flame (when lit). 

If you notice that the thermocouple is not where the flame can connect to it, you can use gentle force to bend the coupler back into the proper position. Use care, so you don’t push it too far and end up breaking it.

6. Damaged Thermocouple

In some cases, there may be severe damage to the thermocouple. In these situations, there are no minor repairs or easy fixes to rectify the situation.

Unfortunately, the only thing you can do at this point is to replace the entire thermocouple with a new one. If you’ve already ruled out all other issues, a failed thermocouple may be at the root of your problem. 

How to Fix

If your coupler looks normal, it could still be faulty with no evidence of damage or buildup. Before you replace this part, you can use a multimeter tool to check the part’s readings. 

You will need to remove the thermocouple for testing. Be sure you’ve turned the gas off and waited for the coupler to cool before disconnecting from your water heater.

A functional thermocouple will produce readings above 20MV. If your meter is showing levels lower than this, you’ll need to replace the part. Unfortunately, this task is not something most people will be able to DIY so you’ll have to bring in a professional technician.

7. Main Control Valve or Gas Valve

A faulty main control valve or damaged gas valve is one of two serious issues that you do not want to handle (unless you’re an expert). 

Wait to check this component until you’ve ruled out all other possibilities, as the valve rarely fails before other parts.

You can use a multimeter tool to get readings for the valves. A gas valve should produce readings between 145 and 195 millivolts. 

How to Fix

Unfortunately, there’s only one way to fix a damaged valve. You will have to replace it. Another sucky thing about it being this part is that it’s a more expensive repair job. 

If you’re inexperienced at working on water heaters, you may find the task of replacing the valves too challenging. To be safe, use a professional instead of trying to DIY the repair yourself. 

8. Faulty Electrical System

A faulty electrical system is more common in electric water heaters than gas heaters. Usually, when you have a flawed electrical system, it’s due to improper wiring.

Improperly wired water heaters can cause a blown fuse or shorted circuits. If you’re dealing with bad wiring, you may notice the breaker running your water heater trips or goes off.

How to Fix

If you suspect that your water heater’s pilot light won’t light or stay lit due to faulty wiring, it’s best to have a technician come out and look your heater over.

Unless you have experience and specialized knowledge of how water heaters work, you may not be able to look at the wiring and detect improper hookups. This issue is not one you will be able to fix yourself DIY.

9. Faulty Burner

Your water heater is in charge of heating the water so you can enjoy a hot shower, get your dishes clean, or have hot water for other uses. The heater warms water by a burner. 

When this burner quits functioning correctly, it can affect the pilot light, causing it to go out instead of staying lit. 

How to Fix

Many experts recommend replacing the entire burner if it starts to act up. Before you replace the part, you can try a few quick tests to determine if this is the part that’s damaged.

First, turn on your hot water faucet and let it run up to five minutes. Sometimes, this can cause the burner to fire up. If nothing happens, lower the temperature down to 120℉ and see if that works. 

If nothing happens on either of these tests, it’s a strong indication that the burner is faulty. You can attempt to replace the burner yourself following these steps. You may do better hiring a professional, as you will be dealing with dangerous components.

Water Heater Won’t Stay Lit FAQ

We’ve looked at nine common reasons why the pilot light in your water heater won’t stay on. Now, let’s look at a few frequently asked questions people also have about the topic.

What does it mean when your hot water heater won’t stay lit?

If the pilot light on your water heater won’t stay lit, it’s a sign that there’s a problem with a mechanical part inside the heater. The most common cause is a faulty thermocouple or a damaged thermostatic control valve.

What do you do if your pilot light won’t stay lit?

If your pilot light doesn’t stay lit, you may need to do some diagnostics to figure out what’s causing the ignitor to fail. Check each of the components we’ve listed for damage. Or hire a professional to come in and figure out the problem for you.

How do you know if you have a bad thermocouple?

An easy way to determine that you’re using a damaged thermocouple is to attempt igniting your pilot. If you get a flame while you’re holding down the gas control knob, but the flame goes out once you’ve released it, it’s a sign of a malfunctioning thermocouple.

How do you clean a thermocouple on a water heater?

To clean a thermocouple, start by turning off the gas valve. Next, remove the burner assembly. Then you can use an emery cloth sandpaper on the ends of the coupler. Finally, use a lint-free cloth to wipe the thermocouple down. In most cases, you can clean the thermocouple without removing it.

Conclusion

Hopefully, one of the nine reasons we’ve listed is causing your water heater pilot light to malfunction. Diagnosing the issue is the first step to getting back your hot water. Once you know the problem, you can decide if it’s something you want to tackle. Or if you need to seek expert help. We’ve given you all the information you need to know to diagnose and fix a faulty pilot light.

51 Different Types of Light Bulbs (Custom Graphics & Guide)

Welcome to another in-depth guide by The Home Simple. Today, we’re going to discuss the topic of light bulbs. 

If you’ve been in the store recently to shop for light bulbs, you may have found yourself complexed by all the different options. Buying bulbs for your light fixtures isn’t as easy as it was once upon a time. We’ve broken down all you need to know about light bulbs to help you make sense of the chaos.

We will discuss the five main types of light bulbs, the different shapes, bases, sizes, and lifespan. We’re also going to talk about light bulb safety, how a light bulb works, and cover some common terminology and shopping criteria.

Types of Light Bulbs

The first thing we’re going to look at is the different types of bulbs. It’s mind-boggling to stare at the vast selections now available. There’s traditional designs, decorative shaped bulbs, small to large, and even colored. The choices are endless. But they all fall into one of five types.

Light Bulb Types

Light bulbs can come in many different types. You want to pay particular attention to your home’s light fixtures to ensure you’re using the right bulbs. Using the wrong light bulb can cause your light fixture to malfunction, potentially leading to a fire hazard.

There are five different types of light bulbs you can choose from:

  1. Halogen
  2. LED
  3. Incandescent
  4. CFL (compact fluorescent)
  5. Fluorescent

Halogen

Halogen bulbs produce white lighting that mimics high-noon daylight. These bulbs are energy-efficient, so they’ll save you money, and they’re good for the environment. But they do have a short lifespan, so they’ll need replacing more frequently than other bulbs. 

Common uses for halogen bulbs are for underlighting for cabinets, recessed lighting, or pendant lights. You can even find some brands with dimmable features so you can have custom lighting.

There are a few safety cautions to note. First, these bulbs heat up fast, so you have to keep them away from anything that could catch on fire. And second, it’s best to wear gloves when touching the bulb. The oil from your hands can cause the bulb to explode when warm. Yikes!

LED

LED stands for light-emitting diodes, which refers to the mechanisms inside the bulb that control light production. These bulbs have the highest energy efficiency and life cycle, lasting up to 50,000 hours. 

These bulbs do not put off any heat, and they do not contain mercury. They produce a bright directional light, and they’re versatile enough to use for a variety of lighting purposes, including task lighting and for areas that are hard to access, such as vaulted ceilings or recessed lights. 

Some fixtures come with built-in LED lights, which we call integrated LEDs. The downside is that once the LED burns out, you usually have to replace the whole piece instead of the bulb.

Incandescent

Incandescent bulbs are the most common type, primarily because they’re cost-friendly and produce warm lighting. This type was the predominant source of bulbs before the creation of LEDs. 

People use incandescent bulbs for lamps, overhead lighting, and mounted lighting fixtures. They’re great for any room in the house where you don’t want harsh, bright light.

You can use these bulbs with dimmers, which allow you to control the brightness of the light. Now, this bulb is not as energy-efficient, and they usually only last around a year. That’s longer than halogens but not as long as LEDs or CFLs. However, they do not contain any mercury.

Fluorescents

When most people hear fluorescents, the first thing they think about is the long, cylindrical bulbs that produce the almost blindingly bright lights in hospitals and offices. You can also find U-shaped or circular shapes for speciality fixtures. 

This bulb type requires less energy to use, but the harsh bright white light they produce is usually too much for most homes. Other than commercial use, fluorescents can also go great in your kitchen, workshop, or garage. 

There may be regulations on how you can dispose of these bulbs, depending on where you live. Fluorescents use mercury vapor to produce light, plus a phosphor coating that converts UV light to normal light when turned on.

CFLs

CFLs or compact fluorescents are an energy-efficient bulb that can produce colored lighting, varying by model. They’re of average cost, being more expensive than incandescent but cheaper than LEDs. But they also last longer than incandescent, so you’re getting your money’s worth. 

These bulbs are an excellent lighting source for large areas, such as kitchens, garages, basements, game rooms, attics, or dens. However, they do take a while to warm up to full brightness.

You have to use caution when handling these bulbs, as they contain mercury. But once they burn out, you can recycle them rather than tossing them into the trash. You can identify this type from others due to the signature curlicue shape.

Light Bulb Shapes

When it comes to the shape of a light bulb, there are plenty of options. Not every style will be compatible with standard light fixtures, so you want to be sure you’re picking the right one.

1. Incandescent 

Incandescent light bulbs contain filaments on the inside that heat up to produce light. Thirty years ago, most light bulbs were incandescent. Unfortunately, these bulbs use more energy than LEDs, making them a less preferred choice for everyday lighting.

This type of bulb can last up to one year, and it doesn’t contain mercury, which is a buying plus for many people. And you can connect these bulbs to a dimmer switch so you can control the light’s brightness.

2. Twisted Fluorescent Lamp

I remember the first time I saw a twisted light bulb. It was such a change from the standard globe design that I immediately switched out every light in the house, just because I liked the bulb’s unique spring coil design.

At the time, I had no idea that these light bulbs have a much longer lifespan than standard bulbs. Nor did I realize they use less energy, meaning cheaper electric bills. It’s a win-win situation. You can even find these bulbs at different brightness levels.

3. Fluorescent Lamp

Fluorescent lighting is more effective than LEDs, but many people dislike them due to their ambiance. But many people recognize the benefit of having these bulbs for their lamps. The unique bent design of these bulbs does mean they won’t be compatible with all lights.

However, these fluorescent lamp light bulbs make an ideal solution for when you need more light. Then turn them off and use your LED overhead lighting the rest of the time for a more natural ambiance.

4. Compact Fluorescent Lamps

Compact fluorescent lamps have a unique shape and an incredible lifespan of thousands of hours. And they don’t put off a ton of heat, so if you won’t burn your fingers if you’re trying to change a bulb right after turning it off. 

Now, these bulbs do cost more than other light bulbs, but you’ll replace them less often, and they can save you on your electric bill because they use very little energy.

5. Circular Fluorescent Lamps

Circular fluorescent lamps have a round (circular) design that won’t be compatible with all lighting fixtures. These bulbs can vary in the white light color they produce from warm-up to daylight.

There may be specific requirements you need to meet when replacing circular fluorescents. So, be sure to pay attention to what lamp type you have (it will start with a T and a number) and what pin type your bulb is (you can see the pins to count them).

6. Flame Shaped Bulbs

Flame shaped bulbs work great for lamps or chandeliers due to their design, which mimics a lit candlestick. Many people use this bulb to create soft accent lighting.

You can find this design in various brightnesses, and some bulbs have dimmable properties. If this is a feature you want, pay close attention to the product details. 

7. Mercury Lamps

Mercury lamps have high energy efficiency and an extended life span compared to other bulbs. This type produces bright lighting, perfect for outdoors, spotlights, or for overhead fixtures. But most people are moving away from this type for safer alternatives.

There may be rules for how you dispose of these bulbs once they die due to containing mercury. They can take a long time to warm up and produce full brightness, and they can cause a blue-green tint, which makes them undesirable for retail or indoor use.

And these bulbs also emit UV radiation, albeit in low concentrations, so there’s no real danger. However, if the outer layer breaks and the bulb is still used, it can cause more radiation, which can be harmful.

8. Halogen lamps

Halogen lamp bulbs contain an internal non-mercury filament that heats up to produce light. This design is similar to incandescent bulbs, but halogens use considerably less energy. 

They have a typical lifespan of one year, which is about the same as incandescents but less than LEDs. But they can be dangerous to handle, posing fire risks if they’re too close to flammable materials or the oil from your hands. 

9. Corn Lamp

Corn lamps are a terrific outdoor lighting solution for barns, shops, and exterior lighting. These bulbs produce incredibly bright lights, far too much for comfortable indoor use. 

But they are more energy-efficient, so you can save money without sacrificing the quality of light. They work as well as high wattage bulbs.

They get their name due to 80 to 108 small LEDs lined up in rows inside the clear U-shaped tubes. You can get these in three different white color intensities from warm to daylight.

 10. Sodium Lamp

Sodium lamps first came out in 1932 in two formats – HPS (high-pressure sodium) or LPS (low-pressure sodium). This type of light is most frequently used for street lights and industrial use. 

LPS produces a monochromatic yellow-hued light and is most commonly used in Europe due to its strong efficiency. You may also hear these referred to as SOX lamps since sodium is SO on the periodic table.

HPS has better coloring than HPS and lasts longer. However, these are not as efficient since they aren’t producing a natural amber colored light. HPS is a preferred choice for street lights globally. 

 11. LED Bulbs

Many people have transitioned to LED bulbs, but there are still plenty of people who have yet to leap, usually because this option is more expensive. But they are energy efficient, so you’re making your money back in the end.

Other advantages of LEDs are that they’re harder to break, don’t put out much heat, and there is less fire risk. However, some LEDs are not dimmable, and you might not get the desired quality of bright white light as from incandescent. 

 12. Globe LED Bulb

Globe light bulbs are the most common type. You’re probably already used to using globed bulbs in your home. However, LEDs are different from your standard light bulb. 

This style has light-emitting diodes (LED) on the inside, rather than filaments. The great thing about LED lights is that they use less energy, meaning cheaper electricity bills.

 13. LED Panel

LED panels are a common sight in commercial applications, like stores, schools, or office buildings. Many people also use these for home purposes as the primary light source for garages or kitchens.

You’ll rarely see LED panels used as a light source for main living spaces or bedrooms. They could be in your bathroom since they don’t flicker or dim, but you’d need plenty of room on the ceiling.

 14. LED Strip Light

LED strip lights are a thin (1/16” thick), flexible strip of small LED lights and circuit boards that you can attach just about anywhere for extra lighting. 

The neat thing about these strips is you can cut them to size and bend them up to 90-degrees for placement. Just peel the protective layer off the 3m taped back and stick it into position. 

And you can find these in basic white or with colored bulbs and dimmable so you can have the perfect ambiance for whatever occasion. They work for lighting cabinets, bathrooms, outdoors, and anywhere else you want color-changing light accents.

 15. Diode

Diodes are a type of LED bulb that many people use for task lighting, for the lights under cabinets, or as lighting for their desks. 

You can find diodes in various brightnesses to match your lighting needs. Although LEDs generally last longer than incandescent bulbs, diodes vary in how long they last.

 16. Dimmer Switch

If you want to brighten or darken the room to custom settings, you should consider installing a dimmer switch. 

You do have to wire these into your home’s electrical wires so they can operate, but they’re not difficult to install. Many people use these in place of a traditional light switch that only flips on or off.

 17. Spotlight Bulbs

Spotlight bulbs are extra bright lights commonly used as a security light to illuminate a large outdoor area. This bulb type is for residential and commercial lighting. 

Some people also use spotlights for accent lighting indoors or for lighting their inside work area. 

 18. Adapter

Adapters are a useful tool for maximizing the amount of lighting you can have in a room. These devices plug into your electrical socket and have empty slots where you can screw in more than one light bulb.

You can find these with room for one to three extra light bulbs, and some models even have additional sockets, although you need to be careful with how much extra stuff you plug up. Too much, and you can cause the adapter to overload. 

Many people use these for outside lighting to have more light around their home or inside work areas. Occasionally, you may see someone using these indoors.

 19. Reflector

Reflector bulbs are a type of incandescent bulb with a medium-base socket, meaning they won’t fit all lighting fixtures. And these are not as energy-efficient, so don’t expect to save any money on your bill each month.

These bulbs have a conical shape with a reflective coating covering the bulb, which provides directional light. You can control the beam’s spread, keeping it narrow for target lighting or wide to flood a whole area. 

You can get these in a range of shapes, sizes, and intensities. For outdoor use, you’d want a bulb labeled as PAR (parabolic aluminized reflector), which are halogens. Indoor use needs bulbs with a BR label.

Light Bulb Bases

The base of a light bulb refers to the part of the bulb that screws into the light fixture. You must pay attention to the bottom of your fixture before shopping for bulbs. Let’s look at the different base sizes. 

E10 Mini Screw

An E10 is the smallest base size and will not fit in standard light fixtures. These bulbs are mostly used for flashlights, lanterns, or decorative optical fiber lighting. You typically get around one thousand hours per bulb.

E17 Intermediate

E17s are a rare base size, typically on smaller sized bulbs like T6, R12, or S11. It can be challenging to find these in stock. This size is generally found in desk lamps or appliances. 

E26 Medium

A medium-sized base is the most common size bulb and fixture. Most bulbs, including halogen, CFL, CCFL, or incandescent, have a medium base. 

E27 Medium

The E27 is slightly larger than the E26 and can work for most fixtures. Compared side by side with the E26, they’re nearly identical in size. 

E39 Mogul

The E39 is most frequently for high-wattage lamps and street lights. These are more industrial and are never for interior residential lighting.

EX39 Mogul

The extended E39 has a 39 to 40mm diameter base, making them too large for regular use.

E40 Mogul

E40 Mogul bases are mostly for spotlights or outdoor lighting due to their large size, limiting their use. You cannot use this size base in regular indoor light fixtures or lamps.

Light Bulb Sizes

Light bulbs don’t just come with various sized bases but also with different sized bulbs, which refer to the glass housing. Let’s take a quick look at these different sizes.

A Series

“A” series bulbs are the classic shape to which many of us are accustomed. These are for commercial or residential lighting. They have a pear-shape with an Edison screw base. 

The bulb’s width, measured in ⅛” increments in the US, is listed as the number after the A. The most common size for lamps is A19, while A15 is more common for appliances and ceiling fans. 

B Series

“B” series bulbs have a slightly round shape with a small tip on the end, making them a decorative bulb that looks great in chandeliers. The “B” for this style stands for blunt.

C-7/F-Series

“F” series stands for flames, which are also a decorative bulb. This option has a flame shape. C-7, on the other hand, stands for candle due to its design. F series are better for more detail, while C-series have bent or blunt tip options.

S Series

The S-Series light bulb is primarily for outdoor signs. Most people won’t have these in their homes, although many people collect antique ones for outdoor decorations. You see these around casinos, theaters, hotels, and restaurants.

F Series

This series of light bulbs has a flame design that inspires them to be called F (for flame). F-series bulbs are for indoor use and are often a decorative statement. Many people use these for chandeliers or lamps. 

G Series

“G” stands for globe, which describes this bulb’s shape. This design comes in a wide array of sizes, from a small G-25 to a large G-40. 

There are even spotlight G-series bulbs for outdoor ornamental lighting. They’re also typical for bathroom vanities due to a dramatic feel and the quality of light.

R Series

The R series of bulbs are the best choice for recessed or track lighting. Their shape directs light so that it doesn’t shine out through the sides. These are great for showcasing pieces, but they might not be the best option for lamps or overhead lighting.

MR Series

MR Series light bulbs come in multiple sizes for track and accent lighting. These bulbs are solely for these purposes and cannot perform as a general use bulb. You see these in residential and commercial settings. 

Linestra

Linestra bulbs are a single contact tubular shape with various uses, including on boats, bathroom fixtures, and medicine cabinet lighting. 

An interesting feature about these bulbs is that although many are glass-like regular bulbs – other models are made of flexible plastic. 

Tungsten Halogen Double Ended

Tungsten halogen double-ended bulbs are a straight tube design that can work indoors, outdoors or both. Different types offer different light emissions.

This light bulb style is a common component of wall or desk lamps, and some people use them for landscaping lighting. 

PS25/PS-35

P series bulbs have a pear shape with a longer, narrower neck length with a greater diameter than an A-series bulb. These bulbs can work for indoor or outdoor lighting to create ambiance. 

Indoors, these lights can go with vanities, ceiling fixtures, wall-mounted fixtures, and portable lamps. Outdoors, they may be used as security lights, radio towers, high tension wires, and illuminate power lines.

AR Series

Bulbs that fall into the AR series are halogen bulbs that produce low lighting that looks great for landscaping. You can get bulbs for different angles, from narrow to very wide, making them an excellent solution for floodlights, spotlight, or wall lights. These aren’t for interior use.

ALR Series

Aluminum reflector (ALR) bulbs have a wide top and a small base that provides broad coverage for large areas. These bulbs are used both commercially or in residential homes for outdoor security.

The brightness and lifespan vary by the bulb, so you’ll need to research the different models to find what works for you. You can use these as a security light for your backyard, driveway, or gardens.

BR Series

BR – bulk reflector lights – have a silver liner coat over the bulb’s surface that helps direct all of the light in one direction instead of spreading out. 

Many people use these for floodlights or to showcase specific areas like gardens or corrals. BR bulbs have better energy efficiency that makes them a great alternative to incandescent reflector bulbs.

T series

T series bulbs can be fluorescent or incandescent, and it’s essential to consider your usage before purchasing one type or the other. 

Incandescent bulbs are great for showcase lighting or appliances. They’re also common for exit signs or stairways. Fluorescent bulbs are more common in commercial settings, like offices, parking garages, hospitals, or retail stores.

RP/MB/BT

All three of these series are decorative bulbs. RP bulbs are the smallest and are what you would use in nightlights, Scentsies, or some chandeliers. 

Both MB and BT bulbs are bigger than RP and can fit in most average light socket bases. In terms of performance, none of these types are any different than other bulbs. They just look more interesting.

PAR Series

In the PAR series, bulbs are a sealed beam bulb that contains one filament (or more) and a parabolic reflector (hence PAR). The original use was for vehicle headlights, although now they are also used for lighthouses, stage lighting, and aircraft purposes. 

PAR bulbs change sizes by ⅛” increments and come in a wide range of voltages, sizes, and beam spreads from very narrow up to a flood. If the hard shell breaks, you have to replace the whole bulb. 

BT Series

BT- Bulged tube – light bulbs are standard for car dealerships, sporting arenas, industrial settings, and canopy lighting. These bulbs produce max amounts of bright light and are more reliable than incandescents. 

E-Series

Ellipsoidal bulbs come in multiple sizes but with the same shape. Some series of E bulbs are fatter and shorter, while others may be long and skinny. The intended use will determine the bulb’s appearance.

ED Series

Ellipsoidal dimple bulbs are a longer, slightly larger model than the standard E series, although they come in many similar sizes. The difference is that these have a dimpled tip and a different base that holds the special arc tubes.

These bulbs are typical for industrial lighting, parking garages, car dealerships, or sporting areas. But you’ll rarely need them in residential settings.  

How Light Bulbs Work

Now that we’ve looked at the many different light bulb factors, let’s look at how light bulbs work. Lightbulbs contain a thin metal filament – usually tungsten, due to its heat-resistance – that’s covered by a glass bulb. Inert gases keep the filament from disintegrating or oxidizing. 

As electricity courses through the filament, the wire glows. The energy from this process transforms into light (watts). When shopping for light bulbs, look for a Lighting Facts Label, which will provide important information about the bulb’s capabilities. 

These labels list factors like watts, brightness (lumens), life cycle, and color. Let’s look at these criteria so you can make sense of the data.

Watts

Light bulbs come in different watts or wattages, referring to the amount of energy the bulb uses. This wattage is on the glass bulb or the metal collar. The higher the wattage, the more power it needs to make light. For the light to be brighter, it will require higher watts. 

When you get your monthly electric bill, your balance is calculated by how many watts of energy you use during the month. Higher wattage bulbs can cause higher electric bills. 

And using light bulbs that have higher wattages than a fixture can handle can be a potential fire hazard. It’s essential to know the max wattage of your product before installing a light bulb. However, watts do not affect how much light the bulb will emit. For this, you’ll want to check the lumen count.

Lumens

Lumens is how light is measured and defines how much light the bulb radiates. In easier terms, it’s the bulb’s brightness. The more lumen, the brighter the light. 

The lumen count is usually on the product’s package. Many experts recommend shopping for light bulbs by lumens instead of watts. Here’s a comparison of how to do this.

  • For the equivalent of a 100W (watt) incandescent bulb, you’d need around 1600 lumens.
  • For the 75W equivalent, choose a bulb with about 1100 lumens.
  • For a 60W bulb substitution, you’ll need around 800 lumens.
  • Instead of shopping for 40W bulbs, look for one that has around 450 lumens.

Color Temperature

Color temperature refers to how the light displays as color, as measured by the Kelvins (K) temperature scale. Different temperatures produce varying shades. 

  • Candlelight – 1,000-2,600K = produces a dim glow, like candlelight. Great for soft light but not for illumination.
  • Warm white – 2,600-3,000K = standard color of incandescent bulbs used for wall or ceiling fixtures in living rooms, bedrooms, and dining rooms
  • Neutral white – 3,000K-5,000K = provides a cool white glow and brighter lumen. This color is great for task lighting in the bathroom, kitchen, and offices.
  • Daylight – 5,000K+ – Daylight is the brightest bulb, with crisp, bright lighting similar to midday sunlight. These bulbs are great for task lights for painting, reading, or hobbying. Many people also use these for security lighting outside. 

Finding the Light Bulb You Need

Gone are the days when you could grab a pack of light bulbs out of the grocery store and screw them into every fixture throughout your home. 

Now, you have to pay more attention to the max watts a device can use, as many are starting to have different wattage max. You also have to know what size and shape bulb your fixture needs. Some fixtures allow you to choose a decorative bulb design.

Then you have to decide what type of bulb you use. The most significant debate is between LEDs or incandescent. 

You also want to know how many lumens you need. We’ve explained the method of replacing incandescent bulbs with the high energy equivalent measured in lumens above.

Finally, you’ll need to decide on the color temperature that you want your room to have. We also went over this earlier.

LifeSpan of Different Types of Light Bulbs

Light bulbs vary in size, shape, color, and, most importantly, lifespan. Lifespan refers to how long the bulb will last. 

Incandescent Bulbs

Incandescent light bulbs have an average lifespan of around 1,000 hours, although it can vary from 750 to 2,000. Generally, this works out to about a year.

Halogen Bulbs

Halogen bulbs are an energy-efficient substitution for using incandescent bulbs with double the lifespan. They have a lifespan of 2,000 to 4,000 hours of use.

CFL Bulbs

CFL bulbs can last up to 10 years, with the hours varying by watts. They usually have a life cycle of 8,000 to 20,000 hours. 

LED Bulbs

LEDs can last an incredible 35,000 to 50,000 hours of use per bulb, making them a fantastic choice for areas you don’t want to access to change bulbs continually. This bulb will last the longest.

Fluorescent Bulbs

Fluorescents are a popular choice for industrial use due to their brightness and long lifecycle. These bulbs can last anywhere from 24,000 to 36,000 hours. 

Light Bulb Safety

There are a few safety tips to know about using light bulbs. First, always be wary of grabbing a hot bulb. It’s best to leave your light off and let it cool before removing the bulb. Remember to wear gloves or use a cloth when handling halogen bulbs.

Another essential safety tip is not to exceed the max safety rating of your light fixtures. Each fixture has a set wattage it can manage without malfunctioning. Using energy-efficient bulbs is a great way to avoid maxing out on wattage. These bulbs use less wattage but give you more lumen (brightness).

And some bulbs may be a fire hazard if they are too close to potential targets due to their tendency to heat up.

Conclusion

Who knew there was so much to learn about light bulbs? It’s crazy to think back to the old days when we carelessly screwed 100W bulbs into our ceiling fans to maximize the light. Now, we know that energy-efficient bulbs like LEDs are a better option than the incandescent days of yesteryear. We hope you enjoyed this detailed guide to the different types of light bulbs.

How to Fix a Leaky Bathtub Faucet (13 Easy Steps)

A leaking bathtub faucet can be annoying and expensive. Many people don’t realize that a simple leak can cause up to 3,000 gallons of wasted water a year. 

We’re here to help you learn how to fix a leaky bathtub faucet in thirteen simple steps. We also give you a breakdown of how faucets work, issues that cause bathtub faucet leaking, and the different faucet types.

That’s enough jibber-jabber. Let’s get into why you’re here. Get ready to learn everything you need to know about bathtub faucet leaking issues!

How A Faucet Works

There are different types of faucets, so they vary in how they operate. However, the central concept is pretty similar no matter the style. 

Faucets contain an external handle that controls the flow of water. This handle connects to a stem, and as you move the handle, the stem moves too. 

There’s a small washer on the end of the stem held in place with a screw. When you turn the faucet on, it releases the pressure holding the washer to the valve seat, allowing water to flow. Turning the tap off causes pressure on the seat and washer, so the water stops.

What Causes A Leaky Bathtub Faucet?

When a bathtub faucet leaks, it’s usually a sign of a broken component. Common reasons why faucet parts fail include:

  • Loose or damaged parts
  • Wear and tear
  • Corrosion
  • Mineral buildup

The most common parts that can cause a leaking faucet include bad O-rings, seals, washers, or hardware. Corrosion of the valve seat or a faulty cartridge is also a frequent issue. 

Let’s take a closer look at each of these components.

O-Rings

The O-Ring provides a leak-proof seal between the faucet stem (or cartridge) and the washer. Over time and use, these rings can degrade, causing your faucet to leak. Replacing these is a simple process. 

Washers

Damaged washers are the most common cause of leaky bathtub faucets. Washers are small rubber or plastic pieces inside the faucet that open and close as the faucet turns off or on. The friction of these movements can cause the washer to degrade, leading to a leaky faucet.

Seals

Many faucets have internal seals that control the water flow when the faucet turns off and on. Like O-rings and washers, these seals wear down with time, resulting in dripping or leaking sinks or tubs. 

Hardware

If any part of the faucet’s hardware breaks, the tap may not turn on or off correctly. Leaking is another common problem. You will have to repair the damaged piece or replace the entire faucet.

Corroded Valve Seat

The valve seat rests at the base of the handle used to control the water flow. Repeated use can cause corrosion, which will damage the valve. Signs of a corroded valve seat include water coming out of the handle.

Faucet Cartridge

Faucets that only have one handle contain a cartridge that manages the water’s temperature. As this cartridge starts to wear out with use, you can experience a leaking faucet.

How Much Does It Cost To Repair A Leaky Bathtub Faucet?

The cost of repairing a leaky bathtub faucet can vary depending on the cause of the leak. It also depends on whether you’re making the repairs yourself or hiring a professional. Most issues do not require expert knowledge to fix. Fixing it yourself is cheaper than expert repair.

The national average for how much it costs for the materials needed to repair a leaky bathtub faucet is $26.74 a faucet, although the price can range from $25.02 and $28.47. 

Now, if you decide to hire an expert to do the job for you, you can expect to spend between $167 and $201. The exact price can vary by location, company, and repairs. 

Bathtub Faucet Leaking? Fix-It In 13 Easy Steps

Most, if not all, of the issues that cause leaky bathtub faucets, can be DIY fixed. It may help if you researched videos regarding the exact model of your faucet so you can see a visual representation of the steps, given that there are different types of taps.

Types of Faucets

Despite the wide variety of different styles of faucets, there are four main types. Knowing which one you have will make it easier to diagnose and repair any issues. The type refers to the mechanisms that operate the faucet.

Ball

Ball faucets are washerless, although they do contain O-rings that can fail and cause leaking. These faucets operate with a single handle that moves a ball inside, which controls the water flow, including amount and temperature. 

Cartridge

Cartridge faucets contain an internal stem cartridge that moves vertically to change the water flow. When you turn the faucet knob, you can feel it shift up or down. Most cartridge faucets have dual handles – hot and cold.

Compression

Compression faucets are the oldest design and commonly a feature of older homes. These faucets have two handles that you have to rotate to control water flow. Each handle has a washer that closes on the valve seat to control the water flow. These washers commonly leak.

Disc

Ceramic disc faucets rarely leak or drip since two ceramic discs control water flow. The top disc turns and raises up or down against a fixed lower disc. The seal between these two discs is watertight because both discs are almost entirely flat.

Side Note

With two handle faucets (separate knobs for hot and cold), you may have to repair both if you can’t figure out which side is leaking. Most experts recommend changing both sides anyway, just so the parts wear out at the same time.

What You Need

Many experts recommend blocking the drain before you begin disassembling your faucet. This step prevents you from losing any small components, like screws, if you drop them in the tub.

You may need the following:

  • Monkeywrench
  • Vice grip pliers or bath socket wrench
  • Screwdriver (Philips and Flathead)
  • Faucet seat wrench

After gathering your tools, you’re ready to start repairs using these twelve easy steps.

1. Shut Off the Water Supply

Before attempting to repair a leaky bathtub faucet, you should turn off the water supply. You can do this at the main located outside, which cuts off water to the entire house

Or, if your tub has shut-off taps (many do), you can shut off the supply for the tub while leaving the rest of your house with water. Once you’ve shut off the water, turn on the faucet to drain any water left in the pipes.

2. Remove the Cap From the Faucet

Once you’ve turned your water off and drained your pipes, it’s time to disassemble your faucet. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the decorative cover at the end of your handle. If there isn’t one, you’ll automatically see the screw in the middle. 

3. Unscrew the Handle Screw

Next, change over to the Philips screwdriver and unscrew the retaining screw inside the handle. Be sure you’re putting all your loose screws into a container or somewhere safe, so you don’t lose them.

4. Remove the Handle

Once the screw is out, you should be able to remove the handle. If it feels stuck, you can heat it with a hairdryer or pour hot water over it. Do not try to force it loose, as it can break, causing significant damage that may require professional repair.

5. Remove the Decorative Trim and Collar (Escutcheon)

Some handles may have a decorative collar on the wall behind your handle that you must remove. There may also be collars over the internal parts. You will need to unscrew these threaded pieces and remove them.

6. Remove the Packing Nut (Stem Bonnet) Assembly

Next, you’ll need to remove the stem bonnet accessory. Using your vice grips, turn the retaining nut counter-clockwise until it comes out. Once this is out, remove the faucet stem by pulling it up with your pliers. You may need to twist it from side to side to loosen.

7. Check the Washer

The first things to examine when disassembling your bathtub faucet are the washers and O-rings. These pieces often face a lot of force, which can cause wear and tear. Look for cracks, missing parts, or other signs of damage.

8. Replace the Washer

The most common part that needs replacing to stop a leaky bathroom faucet is the washer, which is at the bottom of the faucet stem. To replace the washer, remove the screw holding it in place, pull off the old one, replace it, and then retighten the screw into place.

9. Remove Mineral Deposits

Mineral buildup is a common problem with faucets. Examine all components for signs of mineral deposits. If there is buildup, soak the corroded parts in white vinegar and clean them with a scourer. Rinse each piece before replacing it.

10. Check the Seat and Other Removed Parts for Damage

While your faucet is disassembled, examine the valve seat for damage. The valve seat is a small threaded tub inside the faucet that holds the washer. You can remove the valve using a seat wrench. 

11. Replace Parts, If Necessary

Once you’ve figured out which parts need replacing, you can head to a hardware store or shop online to find replacement parts. It’s a good idea to take the parts along or to have pictures, so you get the right replacements.

12. Put Everything Back In Place For All Handles

After you’ve finished replacing the washer, O-rings, stem, or any other damaged pieces, it’s time to reassemble your faucet. After completing all repairs, work your way backward from steps six through two.

13. Turn the Water Back On

Once you have everything put back together, the last thing to do is turn your water supply on and test your repair. If your faucet still leaks, you may want to seek professional help.

Conclusion

A leaky bathtub faucet is a common issue many people face. The good news is it’s usually a simple fix that you can do in your spare time without spending a fortune on replacement parts. We’ve described some common reasons for drippy tubs and given you simple steps for how to fix a leaky bathtub faucet. 

9 Tips To Clean A Glass Shower Door

Having a glass shower can make you feel like you’re in a lush, private spa retreat. But for most of us, someone from housekeeping won’t be stopping by to keep your shower clean.

As the adults in the home, it’s up to us to keep our families healthy and safe. So, you need to know how to clean your glass shower properly, so you don’t end up with yucky grime, soap scum, water stains, mildew, or worse, mold. We’ve put together a helpful guide with tips for how to clean glass shower doors.

We’re going to look at the best glass shower cleaning products, store-bought and homemade. We’ll also give you shower cleaning tips and answer some frequently asked questions.

What Is Soap Scum?

Soap scum, also called lime soap, is a white (or gray) residue that occurs when soap combines with hard water. Soap scum residue is magnesium stearate, calcium stearate, and other alkali metal variations of fatty acids. 

Most hygiene products like body soap contain parabens, which leave behind soap scum. Bar soap is worse than liquid soap.

A common site in kitchens and bathrooms, soap scum, is an unsightly, aggravating film that builds over metal faucets, grout, tile, and glass. You may notice spots, splotches, streaks, or layers of caked up soap scum. Over time, this grime will turn pink or orange.

Once soap scum starts to build up, it can be hard to get rid of, which is why it’s best to tackle this problem as soon as you notice it is occurring instead of letting it get out of hand. 

Hard vs Soft Water

Over 85% of the water plumbed into homes throughout the US contains hard water, according to the US Geological Survey. Many people scratch their heads in confusion when they hear hard water. After all, water is a liquid and doesn’t turn solid unless frozen.

Hard water is not describing the physical attributes of the compound. When your water comes out of the faucet, it will not look any different if it’s hard than it would when it’s soft. 

When you hear water referred to as hard, there are high calcium and magnesium concentrations. These are two minerals that naturally occur in H2O (water). The more of these minerals that water contains, the harder it becomes, based on the hard water scale.

On the other hand, soft water does not contain harmful minerals that can cause disaster for your water system or personal hygiene. Soft water is safer and cleaner. 

When you have soft water, you won’t have nasty chemical buildups in your pipes, appliances, or on your surfaces. And it’s easier on your body, so you feel clean after a shower. 

Soft water improves soap performance, so it works better, whereas hard water breaks down soap ingredients, causing them to become inactive. You will not get as clean when using hard water.

Problems that Occur from Hard Water

Magnesium and calcium are crucial components of human health, but you do not want these minerals in your water system.

Hard water can cause multiple problems with your home. When used for cleaning, hard water can cause residue or film buildup on your clothing, dishes, or shower. It’s also common to see loose particle residue inside your washing machine or dishwasher.

The issue occurs when hard water gets hot, which can cause calcium deposits that damage pipes, coffee machines, and other appliances. Hard water can cause higher heating costs, loss of efficient function from your appliances, and affect your hygiene.

If you’ve ever felt a filmy residue on your body, hair or hands after washing, it’s probably the result of hard water. Your hair or skin may feel brittle or dried out. And you may feel like you still have soap residue on you after you’ve rinsed. 

The 9 Best Cleaning Supplies To Make Your Shower Doors Sparkle

There are many commercial cleaners to choose from to remove soap scum from your bathroom and shower. But there are also homemade solutions. We’re going to look at the nine best cleaning supplies to make your shower doors sparkle. 

Vinegar

Many people are starting to prefer natural remedies to harsh chemical cleaners. Vinegar is a common household item that makes an excellent cleaning agent for your home, including glass shower doors.

You can combine vinegar in a spray bottle with other ingredients, such as baking soda or Dawn dishwashing detergent, for an all-natural cleaner you can use every day. 

After letting the solution soak on your glass for 30 minutes, rinse with water and wipe down with a microfiber cloth. If you have stone accents in your shower, skip the vinegar and mix Dawn and baking soda into a paste. Vinegar can damage the stone.

Baking Soda

Baking soda is a cheap, all-natural abrasive cleaner that’s ideal for scrubbing soap scum stains. Most people have baking soda sitting in their pantry or fridge.

To clean with baking soda, apply half a cup of powder onto a cloth and scrub damp doors. Remove with warm water. For added cleaning power, use vinegar or lemon juice instead of water. You can also mix baking soda with vinegar to form a thicker scrubbing paste. 

Lemon

Another non-chemical cleaning solution for your glass shower doors is a lemon – yes, we mean the fruit. Lemons are an extraordinary cleaner to prevent streaks, so your glass glistens. 

To use lemon, cut it in half, dip the cut surface into baking soda, and scrub your shower doors. The mixture of baking soda and lemon produces a foam. Rinse with warm water to remove the suds. You can also apply lemon oil afterwards to prevent soap stains.

Ammonia

At one time, ammonia was a standard cleaning solution. But many people have started using more natural ingredients that don’t have as strong of a chemical smell.

However, ammonia still serves its purpose as a potent cleaning agent to remove tough stains and soap scum from glass doors. 

All you need is two tablespoons of ammonia mixed with warm water in a spray bottle. Let the solution soak on the doors for three to five minutes then wipe it away using a dry microfiber rag. 

You need adequate ventilation when using ammonia. Turn on bathroom vents, open the door and any windows. Always wear gloves and NEVER mix with bleach, as the combo creates harmful vapors.

Vodka and Peppermint

For a pleasant smelling homemade cleaning solution, combine a half cup of vodka with ten drops of peppermint essential oil in a spray bottle. 

Apply this spray mixture to your shower doors after each use to prevent buildup. Or use it once a week for a deep clean. Let the solution soak on the glass for ten to fifteen minutes. 

Hydrogen Peroxide

Most people have hydrogen peroxide in their first aid kits, but it’s also an excellent cleaning solution. Due to the smell, you can use essential oils to add fragrance. 

Mixing tea tree and peppermint is an excellent mixture to tackle mildew and mold. Adding these oils with peroxide produces a strong cleaner that smells great. 

Combine ten drops each of both essential oils, along with a half a cup of hydrogen peroxide and one cup of water in a spray bottle. Apply the solution to your glass doors, let soak for one to two hours, and then rinse well.

Alcohol and Hydrogen Peroxide

Take a second dip into the medicine cabinet and pull out rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide to create a strong glass shower door cleaner. 

Combine a half a cup of peroxide with half a cup of alcohol, one tablespoon of dishwasher rinse aid (Jet Dry) and one teaspoon of dishwashing detergent (Dawn works best). 

Dilute the mixture in a spray bottle and slowly shake to mix. Avoid hard mixing, which can make the solution foam. Use on your doors as necessary for hard cleans.

Borax

Borax is a chemical cleaner that forms a scouring paste that can clean soap scum and water stains off glass shower doors.

You can buy Borax at most stores, located in the laundry aisle. To clean your doors, mix Borax with water to form a paste then apply the mixture to the doors using a damp sponge. 

You can rinse the solution after applying using distilled water. Then dry the entire surface with a microfiber cloth.

Bring It On

When you have hard water, soap scum buildup and water stains are inevitable. When hard water forms stain deposits, it usually requires a chemical solution to remove.

Bring It On Hard Water Stain Remover is a versatile product that you can use on your entire bathroom, regardless of material to remove hard water residue buildup, soap scum, and stains. 

How to Clean Glass Shower Doors

Most shower installer companies recommend that you wipe down your shower doors each day after everyone has finished their showers. 

You’ll get the best results if you start cleaning shortly after the last person has showered, while everything is still wet and warm. Warm water loosens shower grime, making cleaning easier. 

Wipe your shower doors, walls, and floor off using a foam cleaning pad (Magic Erase) or a sponge every day (it’s okay to skip days where the shower isn’t used). Daily wipe-downs reduce how frequently you need to deep clean.

You can also use a squeegee or an old towel to wipe down the shower doors after each use to prevent hard water deposits. And leave your doors open when not in use so the air can dry the shower.

Doing minor daily cleaning of your shower reduces the need for deep cleaning, which you should do every few weeks. Try this cleaning schedule to keep your shower doors, walls, and floors.

Tips for Keeping Your Shower Door Clean

Keeping your shower door clean isn’t as demanding a job as you would think. You can use some simple solutions to prevent scum buildup, so your showers look good as new despite years of frequent use. Try these tips to keep your shower door clean.

  1. Squeegee your shower doors after each use. Start at a top corner and work down to remove any collected water that can cause mildew. 
  2. Spray a DIY cleaner on shower doors, let it soak for a few minutes, and then wipe away with a dry microfiber cloth. Repeat after each shower or at the end of the day.
  3. Keep your shower well ventilated by leaving the doors open when not in use. Leave the bathroom vent running during use and for at least 30 minutes afterwards to remove humidity. If you don’t have a vent, consider opening a window or using a dehumidifier
  4. Spray a vinegar solution to your shower, once a week. Soak for five minutes and rinse with warm water or wipe with a lint-free cloth.
  5. Wipe shower surfaces down with a wet, activated (squeeze the sponge after wetting) Magic Eraser once a week to remove any stubborn soap scum stains.
  6. Once a week, wipe down glass shower doors with a damp lint dryer sheet (you can recycle the ones you’ve used in your laundry). Then go back over the surface with a wet paper towel. 
  7. When there’s a lot of scum buildup that natural solutions won’t clean, turn to weekly or monthly cleanings using commercial cleaners like X, X, or X. Pine-sol is also useful for cleaning glass shower doors. 
  8. Spray your shower doors with a coat of Rain X Shower Door Water Repellent, which will protect your glass from soap scum, grime, and water stains for up to three months.
  9. Clean between metal tracks with an old toothbrush once a month. For large buildup, consider a paint scraper or razor blade.

FAQs

Now that we’ve covered some of the best tips and products to clean a glass shower door, let’s look at a few commonly asked questions also asked about shower cleaning.

What is the best cleaner for glass shower doors?

Most people prefer natural cleaners for glass shower doors over chemical products. Vinegar is the best non-chemical cleaner for everyday shower cleaning. But for hard buildup and stains, you may need a stronger product like Borax or ammonia. 

How do you get hard water stains off glass shower doors?

The best way to remove hard water stains from glass shower doors is to spray a cleaning solution on the surface. Alternately, you can use a sponge dipped in the vinegar solution to scrub the doors.

After applying the vinegar solution, let it soak. The more stains there are, the longer you want it to soak. At a minimum, wait five minutes. Severe stains may need an hour to soak, and it may take multiple cleanings before the stains are gone. Rinse with hot water.

How do hotels keep glass shower doors clean?

Hotels keep their shower doors clean and shiny by doing thorough cleanings every day. Turn on the shower as hot as it will allow and let it steam up for ten minutes. 

Next, spray the doors using a cleaning solution and wipe with a cloth or sponge. Rinse clean and squeegee the doors to remove any water droplets. Then wipe the area with a dry lint-free cloth, so you don’t get streaks.

What can I put on my glass shower doors to keep them clean?

Rain-X is a popular product for car windows, but they also make a fantastic product for shower doors. Grab a bottle of Rain-X Shower Door Water Repellent (they have a shower door cleaner too!) and coat your shower doors after cleaning. 

Squeezing your doors after every shower use can also help keep your doors clean. You can also apply lemon oil after cleaning to create a water-proof barrier. 

Conclusion

Glass shower doors are becoming a common occurrence in bathrooms due to the many benefits over shower curtains. However, glass doors can collect soap scum and hard water buildup when not appropriately cleaned, which leaves a gross film over your glass. We’ve given you multiple tips on how to clean glass shower doors, so your shower looks good as new.

Garage Door Won’t Close When Cold: Causes & Fixes

Cold weather can wreak havoc with your garage door, causing malfunctions that may leave you stranded inside or stuck with a door that won’t close.

We’ve found the most common reasons why your garage door won’t close when cold. After we discuss each cause, we will list our recommendations on how to fix the issue. Never deal with a malfunctioning garage door again by knowing the common problems and how to prevent or reverse them. 

Table of Contents


Condensation

One of the most common causes of a garage door that won’t close during the wintertime is condensation on the safety sensors. 

If your garage door refuses to close when you push your remote control or the wired switch mounted to your wall, your first check should be the safety sensors. 

These sensors mount on both sides of the door, located a few inches above floor level. When it’s cold, these sensors tend to fog up, which can then confuse the sensor into thinking there’s an obstruction under the door so it won’t close.

Wiping the condensation away with a soft cloth and a mild streak-free cleaner should be all it takes to make your sensors work properly again. 

Expansion/Contraction of the Metal

Metal reacts to temperature changes, expanding when it’s hot and contracting when it’s cold. This expansion and contraction can cause misalignment of the sensors over time.

When your sensors are out of alignment, they cannot correctly determine when there is an obstruction versus when there isn’t. So they frequently fail to close. 

Examine your sensors to see their positioning. They should point directly at each other so that the beams can hit the sensors. Also, check the exterior LED. If they are blinking, it means the sensor needs realignment. 

To determine if your sensors are correctly aligned, turn your phone camera on and hold it in front of your sensor to see if the red infrared laser hits the center. Repeat this process for both sensors and adjust the screw at the bracket if there’s misalignment.

Sensor Light has Dimmed

Sometimes, the problem is that the sensor light has dimmed too low that it can’t reach across the span of your door to connect to the other sensor. 

While holding your phone in front of the sensors, pay attention to the laser light intensity. If it’s dim or barely any light, it may be time to replace the LED emitter or replace the whole sensor entirely. 

Sensor Needs to Be Reset

Sometimes, an undetermined issue may occur that causes a malfunction with the sensors. If all else fails and you can’t figure out the problem, attempt resetting your sensors. 

Many times, a hard reset can put things back in order. To form a hard reset, unplug the door opener, wait a few seconds (10 to 30) and then plug it back up. 

Once restarted, test your garage door again to see if it will now close. If not, continue with our diagnostics. If so, bookmark this article for future use. You never know when your garage door will quit.

Frozen Garage Door Lubricant

Garage doors need lubrication to work properly. But many times, homeowners or door installers use the wrong lubricant, which doesn’t stand up well to cold weather. 

And lubrication can also start breaking down over time, so if it’s been a while (if ever) since you’ve lubed your garage doors, you may notice closing problems once it gets cold outside.

There is lube made just for garage doors, but you could also use a silicone-based lubricant spray. Both of these options hold up well during cold or hot seasons. 

Hardened or Not Enough Grease

Many garage doors use grease as added lubrication to help the doors glide along the tracks. But when the weather gets cold, it can cause grease to congeal.

When grease congeals, it can cause the garage door to get stuck. Add a space heater or other heat source to your garage so the lubricant stays soft and pliable. 

If there’s no grease, you’ll face major issues with your garage door raising and closing. When the temperatures are cold, an ungreased garage door will malfunction more than in warm weather. Adding grease to your bearings can reverse the issues with your garage door.

Warped or Misaligned Tracks

When metal tracks contract and swell from temperature changes, it can sometimes cause the tracks to become warped or misaligned. 

Warped and misaligned tracks can cause your garage door to halt when opening or closing, getting stuck at a specific point. A physical examination of your tracks could show signs of damage. 

You may be able to realign your track yourself, but you may have to replace the whole thing if there is a significant warp. For many people, this job will need the expertise of a professional installer. 

Frozen Door Threshold

A common cause of a garage door that won’t close or open during cold weather is a frozen threshold. This event happens when the ground is wet, usually from rain, and it freezes. 

If you believe that your garage door is stuck due to being frozen, it’s important not to try opening it until you’ve cleared the area. 

Start by examining the weather stripping. If it’s covered with ice, you can cause rips if you try to force the door open. From the inside of your garage, use a piece of wood and a hammer to knock along the bottom. This will break the ice-free from the bottom so the door can open. 

Drive Problems

Garage doors have electric motors that power the components to make your door open and close. While these motors are pretty reliable and rarely fail, some parts tend to wear out. 

Chain-driven systems often have problems with broken gears, as these are plastic. However, these are usually easy to replace. 

Screw-driven openers feature a carriage that moves along a screw shaft via gears and teeth. These parts commonly break and require replacing. And finally, belt-driven motors frequently experience problems with pulleys, belts, and other gears. 

Remote

Many people fail to realize that their garage door opener runs on batteries. When these run out of power, your garage door may not close or open when you push the button. 

Leaving your controller attached to the sun visor can cause condensation on the battery contacts due to humidity buildup. 

Remove the cover from your remote and wipe the contacts dry. If this doesn’t make the remote operate properly, change out the batteries and try again.

Safety System

Garage doors that close halfway then start to roll back up automatically, accompanied by flashing lights, which means something is causing the safety system to malfunction.

These symptoms may be a sign of interference with the safety system sensors that keep the doors operating safely. 

Things to check are the infrared sensors, as we explained in #2. Your sensors should have solid green lights that don’t blink. Clean your lenses and ensure all the wires are attached.

Close your door by holding down the close button and notice where the door seems to catch and roll back up. Examine this area to see if you notice signs of damage or obstruction.

Limit Switch

Limit switches control when the door stops opening or closing. When the limit isn’t correctly set to close, it can cause the opener to continue putting pressure on the door, even after it’s closed. 

This excess pressure can confuse the safety sensors and cause the door to change directions and reopen automatically. 

Some motors have limit switches that adjust with a screw or knob on the engine. Chain-driven doors have lug switches attached to the chain. To fix the limit issue, you move the lug, which adjusts the closing allowance. 

Doors Without Openers

Some garage doors may not have an automatic opener, meaning you have to get out and do the lifting and closing manually. 

Since there’s no motor operating the door, the most common cause of a malfunction will be an obstructed track or neglect. 

You may be dealing with a broken hinge or a roller missing. Both of these issues should be checked by an expert garage repair technician. 

Lift Mechanism

Your garage door has mechanisms that help it open and close. Cold weather can cause malfunctions with these pieces. 

To determine if there’s an issue with the lift parts, start by disconnecting your door from the lift mechanism so you can open the door manually. There should be a cord with a handle that attaches to the lift. Pulling this cord should disengage the door. 

Attempt to lift the door while it’s unhooked. It should roll up without much difficulty, despite the heavyweight. If the door catches, feels heavy, or won’t budge, you may be dealing with a broken lift mechanism. Check the parts listed below.

Worn or Broken Springs

Garage doors have springs made of metal, prone to cracking and breaking when the weather gets cold. Unfortunately, a broken garage spring usually requires a professional to repair.

DIY’ing is possible, although it can be challenging to find the parts or helpful guides to walk you through the process. It’s not a job for the inexperienced.

When your garage door doesn’t close due to a broken spring, there is nothing else you can do until the spring gets replaced. 

Icing

When there are frigid temperatures outside, but your garage stays warm inside, it can build condensation around the door. 

This condensation, or moisture, can freeze in between your garage door panels, causing it to stick.

Applying mild direct heat can help thaw the ice so the door can resume normal function. A hair dryer works in a pinch, although it may take a bit of time to defrost everything enough to work correctly. 

Preventive Maintenance

Garage doors and their mechanisms require regular maintenance to ensure they stay in good operating condition. Do periodic checks of pulleys, lift components, and tracks clean and free of debris. Apply lubrication to all gears twice a year (minimal) to keep things working right.

Conclusion

Cold weather can cause multiple complications with your garage door, including keeping it from closing correctly. We’ve found the most common reasons why a garage door won’t close in the cold and simple instructions for fixing these issues. 

14 Easy Steps To Remove A Bathroom Sink Stopper

When your sink stopper fails, it can not only cause you significant inconvenience, but it can be unsightly and irritating. If you have no way of preventing your water from draining away, the sink is rendered less useful.

So, if you want to know how to remove a sink stopper so that you can repair or replace it, read on.  

Table of Contents

What Is A Sink Stopper And How Does It Work?

Before we get into the details about how to remove a sink stopper, let’s give you some background detail about what a sink stopper is and how it works.

Sink stoppers are the modern equivalent to the old fashioned rubber stoppers from sinks of old. Your parents and their parents would have used a rubber stopper on a chain.

Modern sinks have a similar setup, but the stopper is attached to a lever mechanism known as a lifting rod. When you push or lift the rod, it activates the pop-up assembly inside the sink drain, and the stopper kicks into action.

The lifting rod sits in a slot at the back of the faucet, with the main part hidden underneath the sink. The lift rod attaches via a C-shaped retaining clip to a pivot rod or “clevis.” When pulled, it moves the stopper downwards to seal the sink.  

Reasons To Remove A Bathroom Sink Stopper

Your sink stopper suffers wear and tear, and over time, corrosion starts to eat away at the working parts of the mechanism. Rust causes the joints to malfunction.

Every time you operate the sink stopper, the rusted elements feel the strain, and eventually fail.

Also, because the sink stopper is a permanent feature of the sink, it becomes clogged with hair, soap scum, and dead skin. If this happens, removing the plug is necessary to unblock the channel to allow water to drain away.

Sink stoppers have a rubber seal, known as a gasket, that runs the length of the outer edge. If this fails, the plug won’t create a watertight seal, and the water will drain away.

The stopper itself is attached to the plunging mechanism via a small ball. Sometimes when the stopper fails to seal, it could be because the ball has become detached.

Another reason to remove the sink stopper could be to strip the assembly to replace a bent lifting rod. This is common because when you plunge and lift the rod, it is easy to become heavy-handed and use too much pressure.

Tools Needed To Remove A Bathroom Sink Stopper

You don’t need many tools to perform a sink stopper removal, but it is worth taking stock of the tools you have before taking a trip to the hardware store to get a new unit.

So, what do you need?

First, you need a new stopper assembly. Most are 1.25 inches by 12 inches. They come as a complete set, with all the rods and linkages attached so that you can do a straight swap.

It is possible to get a set without the pop-up assembly, but if one part of your old stopper has failed, other issues will likely arise. Replacing the whole unit means you are starting with a completely new system.

Second, you will need an adjustable wrench and a pair of slip-joint pliers. If you don’t have an adjustable wrench, locking-jaw pliers will suffice.

Also, a screwdriver is a great tool to keep handy. Whether you need a flathead or crosshead version depends on your particular assembly. A sharp knife is also recommended to cut through the old sealant beneath the finishing flange.

Lastly, you will need a sealant of some type. Plumber’s putty is a good choice, but double-check the warning labels to see if you can use it on marble or plastic. If not, you may need a silicone sealant.

When shopping for silicone sealant, get one designed for use in bathrooms and kitchens. The ingredients include an anti-mold formula that inhibits the growth of unsightly spores that discolor the sealant.

How to Remove A Sink Stopper In 14 Steps

If you read the instructions on your new sink stopper assembly, it typically tells you to shut off the water supply to the sink. If you want to perform this task to the letter, go ahead. However, it is not necessary.

You are not touching any waterworks during the replacement process, but do place a container under the pipes and have a dry cloth or paper towels handy for any rogue drips.

1. Remove The P-Trap Nut

This is the large nut that connects your sink assembly to the P-trap, or U-bend. If it is plastic, you might be lucky enough to twist it loose by hand. Some nuts are brass, which means you might need your slip-joint pliers to free them.

The P-trap nut stops sewer vapors from seeping into your home. It is common when houses are left empty for long periods, that you can smell sewer gas. Just run some water into the drain, and the smell goes away.

With the catch pan in place, loosen both retaining nuts and place the P-trap in the container.

2. Disconnect The Lifting Rod Assembly

The C-shaped retainer clip grips the clevis to the lifting rod. Pinch the ends together and slide the clevis free from the hole in the lifting rod. Place the clip somewhere safe. While you shouldn’t need it, a spare is always handy.

3. Loosen The Pop-Up Assembly

Grab the slip-joint pliers and grip them around the pop-up assembly retainer nut. This nut is likely to be brass or chromed brass. Turn it anti-clockwise until the nut comes free. Again, save the nut as a spare.

4. Remove The Finishing Flange

Wiggle the pop-up assembly back and forth to loosen the finishing flange attached to the sink drain hole. You need to break through the old sealant. It might be an idea to run a blade around the flange’s edge to cut the adhesive.

Push up on the assembly to slightly raise the finishing flange. Grip the raised edge with the slip-joint pliers and turn the pop-up body while holding the flange still. This disconnects the two, allowing you to remove the bulk of the pop-up assembly.

5. Remove The Old Sealant

You should remove all traces of the old sealant if you want an even seal without leaks on the new flange. Use the knife to scrape it away. It should come off easily. Discard the old sealant along with the old finishing flange.

6. Does It Fit?

Make sure the new finishing flange fits the sink hole before going any further. Not all flanges are the same size, so if the new one requires adjustments, it’s better to find out in advance.

The finishing flange screws into threads inside the old assembly, so double-check that the new one matches. Some sink stoppers have a flange that screws into the outside of the body. If this is the case, you need to make adjustments.

The drain hole in the sink should have a small rim of plastic that coats the gap. Grab your sharp knife and trim away some of this material to make the flange fit.

7. Fit The New Finishing Flange

Apply sealant to the underside of the new finishing flange and press it in place. Double-check that there are no gaps where water could leak out.

The key to success is not to use too much sealant, but you will still need to wipe away any excess.

8. Seal The Assembly

Grab the new underside of the drain assembly and apply sealant around the base of the threads and just below the rubber seal that sits below the threads.

Now insert the pop-up assembly body into the sink hole and gently screw the threads onto the finishing flange. Be aware that the flange must remain in place, so try not to disturb it as you connect the two parts.

Also, make sure that as you tighten, the linkage assembly fittings face the rear of the sink, towards the wall. This is so you can insert the lifting mechanism in the correct location.

9. Secure The Assembly Body

Tighten the large nut that secures the assembly. Some are plastic with protruding notches that enable you to do it by hand, while others are chrome-coated brass and require an adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers.

Ensure the pop-up assembly does not rotate as you tighten the nut, and try not to overtighten, which might damage the threads.

When you are satisfied that the assembly is secure and it does not move, release the pliers from the nut.

10. Load The Linkage

Load the linkage into the retainer nut. You will find a ring in the body of the assembly that acts as a seal between the ball and the body. To find out if it is still in place, feel for a small indentation that fits the ball to the linkage rod.

If your pop-up assembly is metal, try not to overtighten the nut because part of the nut is a narrow washer that could dislodge if too much pressure is applied. If it does, you will not form a seal and have difficulty getting the nut to hold the ball onto the linkage.

Plastic pop-up kits are sometimes more forgiving when fitting them compared to metal ones. Metal kits require more tool-tightening and are more time-consuming.

11. Assemble The Linkage Rods

Drop the sink stopper into the finishing flange from the top of the sink. Next, feed the link rod through its hole to secure it to the loop at the bottom of the stopper.

Screw the link rod retainer nut into place on the assembly body. Feed the lift rod through the hole in the faucet body and screw on the knob. Now it’s time to decide which hole you want to slot the clevis rod through to link it to the lifting rod.  

Insert the clevis into the hole in the lifting rod, ensuring that the C-clip is in place. To do this, reverse the process you used to remove the C-clip. Once you release it, the clip springs open to retain the linkage together.

The best way to picture this assembly is to imagine an uppercase L but in reverse. That’s roughly the shape your lifting mechanism should be.

12. Check It Works

Before proceeding, pull up on the lifting rod to see if it activates the sink stopper and forms a tight seal in the drain hole. If all is successful, it’s time to replace the P-trap.

13. Reassemble The P-Trap

Swap the compression washer and nut from the old pop-up assembly and insert them onto the new one. Without these, you would not be able to secure the P-trap. Offer up the P-trap to the pipe in the wall and tighten as needed.

Then secure the other end of the trap to the replacement drain assembly and tighten the nut. Because it is plastic, you should get enough purchase to sufficiently hand-tighten.

14. Finish Up

Remove the protective blue film on the top of your sink stopper and remove any excess sealant. Also, perform a  test run and fill the sink with water. Watch for leaks, both from the drain plug and the assembly, as well as the pipes.

If all is good, sit back and relax.

Tips for Sink Stopper Removal

As with all these techniques, some methods and tips can make the whole thing more manageable and efficient. But what are they?

Save Spare Parts

It is unlikely that you will need all the new components of your sink stopper assembly. Often, one element fails, which prompts you to replace the entire thing.

After you’ve removed the old assembly, salvage any usable spares for later repairs. If the sink stopper needs attention in the future, it may be that you have the appropriate replacement without shelling out any more cash.

Give The Drain a Clean

This is more of a preventative measure. Once you disassemble the pop-up assembly and remove everything, grab an old toothbrush and give the sink drain hole a good clean. It may remove hairs and other gunk that might cause a blockage later down the line.

Take Notes

When you remove the old linkage rods, take note of which hole the clevis went through so that you can replicate it with the new mechanism. That way, you get it right the first time.

You could use your phone to take a photo of the lift rod assembly.

Clear The Work Area

Clearing out the cupboard under the sink saves time and gives you more space to work. It is cramped enough down there without you making it harder still.

Avoid Dirty Water

When stripping out a sink stopper assembly, there’s a strong chance you will be on your back, looking up. When you remove the p-trap, you risk getting dirty, smelly water, and gunk in your face.

It might be an idea to remove the trap before you settle into the most comfortable working position on your back.

Check Out Instructional Videos

There are so many instructional videos available that you can set up a tablet or your smartphone and press play while you perform the repair. It’s like having a plumber in the room showing you what to do.

And the best bit is if you get stuck or don’t understand something, you can pause, rewind, and replay.  

Conclusion

So, there you have it. Removing a bathroom sink stopper is easier than you think. All it takes is a little patience, some planning, and a few basic tools.

Imagine if you didn’t attempt a DIY repair? Imagine calling in a plumber and all the added expense? For something so simple, even the most challenged DIYer could accomplish this task.

25 Parts of a Roof (and Their Functions) – The Home Simple

Understanding all the different elements that make up an entire roof is crucial when it comes to making effective repairs and maintenance. Like other parts of your house, the roof is complicated and made up of many parts and layers.

In the main, most people would run a mile at the prospect of performing a DIY repair on their roof. However, if you are the adventurous type and fancy giving it a go, this article is for you.

Here is our simple guide to all the parts of a roof with a little background knowledge and what role they play.

1. Shingles

Shingles are flat coverings that protect your roof from water ingress. They are made from various materials, including slate, asphalt, plastic, composites, and metal. Wood is also another widely used material, especially on premium-build homes.

Shingles are ideal if you need to carry out repairs because you only have to replace the broken shingles rather than the entire roof. This is more common than you might think. Shingles suffer at the hands of extreme weather conditions and are susceptible to cracking.

It’s also worth noting that lighter colored shingles reduce what is known as “the urban heat island effect.” Dark roofs can actually increase the heat in the local area in densely populated areas of concentrated housing.

2. Ridge

The ridge of your roof is one of the most important elements. It consists of a horizontal timber sandwiched between the rafters and trusses. It is the roof’s highest point, creating that sloped angle to allow the water to run off.

When the ridge sits between two opposing roof slopes, it is called a duo-ridge, and when it butts to a supporting wall with only one pitch, it is a mono-ridge.

The ridge is the most weather-exposed part of the roof, taking quite a bit of punishment. Interestingly, the ridge board is a non-structural component, serving only as a prop for opposing rafters.

3. Valley

Roof valleys are the point where opposing slopes meet, creating a V-shaped channel for the water to run off the roof. Contractors and roofers are aware that a valley is one of the most problem-prone parts of the whole roof structure.

If you are looking for a leak, the valley is a good place to start your search. Roof valleys can be made from lead, concrete, fiberglass, and even aluminum. Lead is one of the most common materials used in older homes as it is weather-proof and does not corrode.

4. Eave

The eave is the area where the roof extends past the point where the supporting wall ends. It is an essential component of your roof because it stops animals and birds from nesting.

It gets its name from the old English word efes, meaning “edge.”

Some eaves terminate flush with the outer wall, and this is called a “flush eave.” Traditional eaves do a great job of channeling water away from walls, windows, and doors, protecting the exterior of your home against water damage.

5. Soffit

The soffit sits between the outer edge of your roof and the exterior wall. Soffits are both functional and aesthetic in that they form a connection between your roof and the wall and protect against water damaging the wooden rafters inside the structure.

Soffit is derived from the French language and literally means “something fixed underneath.”

Water causes mold and rot, so keeping the wooden elements dry is a crucial job. Not all roofs have soffits, so if you are curious to know if yours does, stand by the exterior wall and lookup.

If the overhang of the eaves is enclosed, that’s your soffit.

6. Rake

The rake isn’t technically part of the roof as it sits on the sloped sides of the gable end to cover where the siding meets the roof. It creates a neat line while protecting the roof from the elements.

Rakes come in three varieties: overhanging and exposed, overhanging and boxed in, and abbreviated or extended. Exposed rakes are more common in older houses like cottages, where the rafters are left exposed beneath the roof covering.

Overhanging and boxed in rakes have a soffit about 6 inches in width to close up any gaps. These are the most common types of rakes. An extended rake has a wider soffit and is usually decorative.

7. Sidewall

A sidewall is a junction between the slopes of a roof and a wall. The vertical part of the sidewall flashing should extend behind the outside wall to ensure that water does not get in.

8. Flashing

Roof flashing is a thin material, often galvanized steel, that roofers use to channel water away from critical areas of the roof where slopes meet walls, like a dormer.

It is also used to seal the gaps where chimneys, vents, and skylights cut through the roof. Like the valleys, if a problem occurs and you spring a leak, the flashing is an obvious culprit.

9. Hip

A hipped roof is a type of roof where all the sides slope down towards the exterior walls. It lacks a flat gable end or other vertical sides, which is why hipped roofs are typically low-profile with a gentle slope. This slope is referred to as the hip bevel.

For this reason, single-story homes often feature a hipped roof.

10. Flat roof

You might think that flat roofs are roofs with zero pitch; however, they are rarely completely flat, as water needs to drain away. For this reason, they are laid to a fall to allow the water a means of escape.

Flat roofs are a budget-conscious way of protecting against the elements. They are cheaper because they require fewer materials, time, and complex construction. Once you install your flat roof, you can put it to many uses.

You could create a viewing area with railings and seating to take in a spectacular view. You might even want to turn your roof into a garden.

A well-fitted flat roof can last as long as 20 years, and contrary to popular opinion, it can be insulated to avoid heat loss.

11. Dormer

A dormer is a built-in feature that adds head height to an attic space. It is a window structure that extends vertically beyond the line of a sloped roof. It gets its name from the Latin dormitorium, which means “sleeping room.”

Because it cuts through a section of the roof to gain added height, there are many elements involved when keeping water at bay. Dormers can be made from wood, concrete, or brick and are commonly used when converting attics into rooms.

The dormer roof is laid to fall to allow a smooth runoff for water.

12. Abutment

The abutment is the part where the roof joins a vertical exterior wall. You can buy specialist abutment systems to avoid water leakage.

Another common method is to insert galvanized flashing strips into the adjoining wall and the abutment to create a water-tight seal.

13. Low pitch areas

Low pitch areas are the parts of the roof where the slope is marginal. You might find them on commercial buildings, as well as sheds, outbuildings, sunrooms, and enclosed front doors. The most common material used is a waterproof membrane.

Other materials include sheet steel, aluminum, asphalt, and composites.

14. Downspout

A downspout, waterspout, downpipe, or gutter is a pipe that carries water from your roof via a rain gutter. Downspouts channel water from the top of the building to the ground without dripping or splashing against the exterior of your home.

If you had no downspout, water would overflow the rain gutter and saturate the exterior walls of your house, causing the ground to become waterlogged. This leads to poor drainage, causing damp issues.

On a 1,000 square-foot house, if 1-inch of rain falls, it channels 623 gallons of water towards the downspouts. That’s a lot of water dispersing into the drainage system. In Chicago, the average yearly rainfall is 37 inches!

That means the average downspout on a single Chicago house contributes to over 23,000 gallons of water soaking away. Now you see why downspouts are crucial to protecting your home.

15. Drip Edge

Drip edges are metal sheets shaped like an L that allows water to get directed away from the roof edge and fascia into the gutter. You find them installed on the edge of your roof, and they are sometimes called drip-edge flashing or D-metal.

16. Fascia

The fascia, or transition trim, sits between the roof and the wall giving your roof that “finished” look. They are both architectural and aesthetic in appearance, neatening the lines between the roof and the exterior walls.

Your gutter sits atop the fascia board as it runs the length of the roof. Most modern fascias are sleek, but they often carry ornate decorations, especially in older homes.

17. Gutters

A rain gutter is sometimes called an eaves-trough, an eaves-shoot, or a water collection channel. It sits on the fascia board along the line where the roof slope extends out over the exterior wall.

Its function is to collect rainwater, channeling it towards the downspout and the ground. As water flows down the slope of the roof, it needs somewhere to go, or you risk saturating the exterior walls of your house.

Common materials used to make gutters include lead, zinc, iron, steel, copper, and painted steel. Rain gutters are problematic because they collect debris like leaves and moss, which inhibits the water flow.

Signs that your gutter needs attention could include damp patches visible on inside walls as well as mold and mildew growth on the exterior walls just below the channel.

18. Rafter

The rafter is one of the main structural components of a roof’s construction. It spans the ridge hip of the roof towards the wall plate of the external wall.

Rafters are laid in sequence, evenly spaced along the roof’s length, and they support exterior coverings like tiles, shingles, and slate. It is important to factor in the weight of the roof covering when constructing the roof.

If the rafters are insufficiently strong enough, the roof may bow and buckle under the weight. Roof rafters are often called roof trusses and are an integral part of the roof’s structure.

19. Underlayment

Roof underlayment is a safety net against severe weather. It consists of a water-resistant material that sits beneath the exterior roof covering.

There are three main types of underlayment:

Underlayment is not always necessary, especially if you live in areas of low rainfall. However, you should always install underlayment on low-pitched roofs and areas where water ingress could be a problem.

20. Collar beam

Collar beams are one of the simplest forms of roofing and one of the oldest. You often find collar beams in very old houses where the rafters are exposed. Old barns and medieval halls are prime examples of where you might see a series of collar beams.

Imagine the A-frame of the roof, as the rafters run the length of the building. The collar beams sit across the middle, about halfway up the rafters, spanning the gap between the two wooden trusses.

It adds stability, increasing the integrity of your roof’s construction. A collar beam stops the roof from sagging, almost like an additional brace.

21. Chimney

The chimney has one primary function to channel smoke to the outside of your building through a long flue. It also adds stability to the house construction, as it is often the only brick element of the home’s design.

As the smoke draws up the chimney, the air is sucked into the room, fuelling the fire in the grate. It is why you should regularly sweep your chimney to avoid soot build-up, which reduces the strength of the draw and increases the chance of a chimney fire.

You are then in danger of smoke billowing back into the house, causing carbon monoxide poisoning. Chimneys come in all materials like stone, metal, brick, and concrete.

22. Ice and water protector

The ice and water protector is an underlayment membrane that sits below the exterior roof covering to protect it against snow and ice damage. They are typical in buildings situated in colder climates and are often made of polymer modified bitumen.

Sometimes, they are called ice and water shields, as they are a barrier to frost and ice damage that could rot your wooden rafters. Without this membrane, ice forms on your structure, causing expansion and retraction as it melts and dries.

You can imagine that this is not a healthy state for your roof, as wood is susceptible to the elements.

23. Skylight

Skylight is a generic term for a window in the roof that allows extra light to flood the interior of your home. But there is a difference between a skylight and a roof window.

A roof window is a fixed window to increase light levels in the home. A skylight opens to increase light and airflow. Skylights typically feature in homes with single-story extensions or attic conversions.

Their purpose is to provide light where there was previously none. They also help you take advantage of any nice views, plus they are also a means of escape in an emergency.

Imagine being trapped on the top floor of the house during a fire outbreak. A skylight offers a way out.

Skylights are also a great option when you want to brighten up a darker space and have a limited budget.

24. Lookout

The lookout, or lookout rafter, is a cantilevered wooden joist that extends out from the building’s exterior wall line to support the roof sheathing. It also provides a surface to nail the fascia boards down.

25. Solid decking

Solid decking is the base that forms the “bare bones” of your attic roof and sits on the rafters as a means of attaching a roof covering like shingles or slate.

Sometimes they are referred to as a solidly sheathed deck and form a base to attach roofing materials. Solid decks prior to 1970 typically have between 1 x 8-inch and 1 x 12-inch wooden board decking.

After 1970, plywood became a more popular material. However, unless it is kiln-dried, it will be prone to shrinkage of between 5 and 10 percent, creating 0.50-inch gaps.

Up On The Roof

Are you surprised that there are so many elements that make up your roof? It is one of the most intricate parts of house construction, and yet, we rely on our rooftops to perform so many crucial tasks.

It keeps us dry, warm, protected against the weather, and it makes our homes look good. Plus, without vital components like downspouts, gutters, and drip edges, you risk damage to other parts of your building.