How Much Does Spray Foam Insulation Cost?

Many people weigh the pros and cons of spray foam insulation. The cost of spray foam insulation is a crucial component of the decision-making process. Compared to other types of insulation, spray foam insulation is higher, both for materials and labor costs. Open-cell spray foam can cost between $1 and $1.20 a square foot, while closed-cell can cost $1.25 to $1.50 at 1″ thick.

Spray Foam Insulation Cost (Based On Type)

Unlike other types of insulation, spray foam starts as a liquid. Once sprayed into an empty cavity, the liquid expands to form a hard, dense foam layer that fills the entire space. Spray foam varies by type, being either an open or closed cell. Each layer should harden to 1″ thickness. If you need more protection, you can add additional layers, up to 5″ thick. 

Spray foam layer (1” thick) Performance
1 layer = 1” thick Basic
2 layers = 2” thick Better
3 layers = 3” thick Best
Pro tip: Get used to the term board foot. This is the measurement for spray foam and is equal to one square foot (12” W x 12” L) with a depth of 1”. If you have a 2” layer, it’s two board feet. Two board feet can also be two square feet that’s each 1” deep. 

Open-Cell

Open-cell spray foam is cheaper due to its construction. This low-density material is spongier, so it has more flexibility from air bubbles within the polyurethane. These bubbles allow this foam to be great for soundproofing but not for thermal insulation.

This foam costs $0.25 to $0.50 a board foot or $1 to $1.20 a square foot and has a lower R-value (3.5 to 3.6 per inch) with 0.5 pounds density per cubic foot. 

When calculating the costs for open-cell spray, you’ll also need to factor in the price of a vapor retarder (plastic sheets or sheetrock) on interior walls. 

Closed-Cell

Closed-cell insulation foam costs more – $0.90 to $1.50 a board foot or $1.25 to $1.50 per sq foot. But it has a density of two pounds each cubic foot with an R-value between 6 and 7.14 per inch. The density can be medium or high. 

The R-value refers to how well a product provides thermal insulation. This type of foam has air bubbles full of hydrofluorocarbon or hydrofluoroolefin, making the foam denser. This solid thickness makes the foam airtight and blocks moisture. 

This type of insulation does not need a vapor retarder because it is water-resistant, saving you money on additional supplies. And because the foam stops moisture buildup, there’s no mildew or mold to treat, another avoided expense.

DIY

If you’re DIY installing spray foam insulation, you’ll need to calculate your costs by figuring up the price of materials, including the foam, accessories (underlay, cleanup), and equipment. You’ll want to use protective gear when working with spray foam, as it can cause eye, skin, and breathing irritation. At a minimum, you’ll want gloves, safety goggles, full body clothing, and a mask or face ventilator. A painter’s mask would also work if you have one handy. 

Which type of system you’re using will affect the costs. You may be able to rent a unit, or you can purchase one within your budget. Check out our reviews on five of the best spray foam insulation kits if you’re in the market for a system.

When factoring in materials, consider the size of the area in square feet of the location you’ll be spraying. Refer to the chart for the price by square feet. Use the formula sq ft x inches depth to determine how many board feet of foam you’ll need for the area. Then multiply the board feet by the price to get the final cost. 

Square Feet Price
100 $44-$150
200 $88-$300
300 $132-$450
400 $176-$600
500 $220-$750
1,000 $440-$1,500
1,500 $660-$2,250
2,000 $880-$3,000
2,500 $1,100-$3,750
3,000 $1,320-$4,500
  • Based on one board foot (12” x 12” x 1” thick)
  • Price increases with each additional layer

Professional

Depending on the area you want to insulate, you may need to contact a professional to handle the job. Small tasks like filling holes in the foundation or small cracks around your doors and windows can be handled DIY. 

But if you need to insulate wall cavities, crawl spaces, attics, basements, or other large areas, it’s best to leave the task to a professional. Each layer of insulation needs to be applied in a 1” layer evenly to get the proper protection. 

The costs for installing spray foam by a professional can vary by location and contractor, which is why it’s a good idea to get pricing from a few different people before choosing. 

Typically, the cost is around $1 to $1.50 a square foot (between $500 and $750 for 500 sq ft) for installation. For labor, you’ll pay between $40 and $70 each hour. 

Pro tip: When debating on what R-value you need, consider your climate. If you live in a hot climate, you’ll do best with a R-value of 30. Cold climates would need an R-value around 49, while temperate climates need somewhere in the middle – R-38 is appropriate.

Spray Foam Insulation Cost vs. Other Methods

There are multiple methods of insulation and installation. Spray foam is a more expensive process compared to other options, both for materials and professional labor costs. Let’s look at the costs of different techniques compared to spray foam. 

Injection Foam

A similar method of insulating your structure is injection foam, which can go into any closed cavity without causing damage to the surrounding system (drywall). 

This method requires making a small injection hole, requiring more minor repairs or cleanup. Since the solution is pre-mixed, there’s less cost of labor. 

The final price of this type of foam depends on thickness, ranging from $0.44-$1.50 for 1″ thickness up to $1.76-$6.00 for 4″ thick foam.

This type can be difficult to DIY without experience, so you may want to check with different contractors to compare pricing before deciding on a company. 

Fiberglass Batt

It can cost two to three times more to install spray foam insulation than installing conventional fiberglass insulation, which costs around $0.40 a square foot for materials. This option is a long narrow sheet of fiberglass material covered by protective paper that fits in the empty gaps between studs to reduce air flow.

Fiberglass batting varies by color and thickness. Which type you should choose will depend on your location and which R-value you need. 

The cost of having a fiberglass batt professionally installed is also cheaper than professionally installing spray foam since this process isn’t as complex (given there isn’t any tear-down or repairs needed). It’s an ideal solution for attics, crawlspaces, or wall cavities where there’s large empty areas to fill.  

However, this material will not allow you to save money with energy-efficiency, as fiberglass insulation is not as solid as foam. It reduces wind drafts but won’t stop them completely. 

The cost of materials varies from $0.64 to $1.18 per square foot, costing between $145 and $200 for 500 square feet. This method is easy to DIY since all you need to install the material is a putty knife, measuring tape, and a utility knife to cut the pieces to size. 

For a professional to do the job for you, you’ll have to pay for materials plus the cost of labor, which can range from $150 to $300. Depending on the size of the space you’re insulating, the job can take up to six hours, costing $300 to $500 in labor alone.

You’ll also want to take into consideration the lifespan of fiberglass insulation, which can be from 10 to 25 years, if kept dry. And because the R-value drops over time, fiberglass will start to lose performance as it ages. 

You’ll have to pay the costs of replacing fiberglass insulation two to three times compared to the one-time cost of spray foam insulation, which lasts a lifetime. 

Blown-in Insulation

Another type of insulation is blown-in, which can be done professionally or DIY. There are multiple types of blown-in insulation and three types of applications – loose fill, wall-cavity spray, or stabilized.

Loose-fill fiberglass is spun (or blown) fibers made with glass. This type of insulation requires a blowing machine to install. Blown-in insulation is suitable for wall cavities or attics to prevent mildew, moisture, and fungus. But it can cause particles of fiberglass to float in the air. 

Applying a netting or membrane helps prevent fiberglass particles from escaping. Some netting is odorless, chemical-free, fire-resistant fiberglass with a 4.2 R-value per inch. Without a netting, blown-in insulation has an R-value of 3.2 per inch. 

Cellulose is another material used for blown-in insulation. This material is made with recycled newsprint and corrugated cardboard and treated with fire retardant (borate) and is common for homes. This material costs around $0.32 a square foot, with pricing ranging from $500 for DIY to anywhere from $1,500 to $2,000 (1,500 sq ft). 

This material also has a shorter lifespan of 20 to 30 years, requiring reapplication two to three times in the same timeframe as the lifespan of spray foam. And it loses R-value over time, reducing its performance.

Radiant or Reflective Barrier

This type of insulation is primarily used in attics where there’s intense summer heat or brutal cold temperatures in the winter. Radiant barriers can help reduce your energy bills while adding to your home’s R-value. 

This type of insulation can vary by design but all share a similar function – thermodynamics. Rather than slowing down heat flow, radiant barriers absorb radiant heat, allowing your attic to remain cool.

A reflective barrier contains cardboard, air infiltration board, plastic films, and strand board, topped with a reflective aluminum-based layer. Some types are double-sided, which cost more.

These barriers can earn you up to 10% (around $150) in annual savings on energy costs. Although if you live in a colder climate, you may not see as much savings as in a hot location. 

Pricing for this type of insulation can vary by product and type (boxed or rolled), ranging from $0.15 to $0.30 a square foot. It can cost between $175 and $325 to insulate a standard 500 square foot attic. If you plan to use a professional for installation, you’ll have additional labor costs ranging between $500 and $750. 

Where to Use Spray Foam Insulation

Spray foam insulation has many uses, both in the house and out. You can use this product anywhere you need to seal cracks or gaps to block air, pests, or water. Spray foam insulation can be added to your home during new construction or existing structures during remodels.

Due to the higher costs of spray foam insulation, many people limit the uses of spray foam insulation to major areas of the home that need superior insulation, including:

  • Exterior framing (doors, windows, foundation, hardware, ventilation)
  • Attic space (ceiling joists) ($2,200 for a typical-sized attic)
  • Basements ($2,140 using closed-cell foam)
  • Crawl space ($80 per 20 square feet)
  • Roof joists ($1,650 to $2,200)
  • Garage ($200-$600 for 750 sq ft) 
  • Barns ($740 to $2,540 for 1,200 sq ft w/ 12’ ceilings)

Pros and Cons Of Spray Foam Insulation

There are many benefits to spray foam insulation, making it one of the most common types of insulation now used for new builds and remodels. 

One of the most significant benefits is that it can significantly increase your home’s energy efficiency, allowing for cheaper electric bills (up to 50% savings). Spray foam can expand 40 to 100 times the original size, creating a solid seal that can reduce or block air and moisture (depending on the type). 

This expansion not only keeps the air outside from coming in to create drafts, but it also keeps the air trapped inside and easier to keep the same temperature. Not having air coming in from outside also prevents moisture and humidity, condensation, and mold. Fiberglass insulation will not stop these issues.

And because spray foam starts as a liquid, it’s easier to use in tight spaces like nooks and cracks where traditional insulation might not fit.

Spray foam insulation is also Class A fire rated (highest possible), allowing it to keep your home safer than other insulation types. 

The biggest downside of spray foam insulation is that it costs more to install, regardless of whether you’re DIY’ing or you’ve hired a professional installer. 

How Spray Foam Insulation Is Installed

The installation of spray foam varies depending on the type of unit used. Most professionals will use a system that consists of two separate tanks of chemicals (A side-isocyanate, B side-fire retardant resin). The resin has to be correctly agitated before use, so the retardant mixes with the resin. Each mixture should also be around 770℉ before applying.

These chemicals move into the proportioner, which controls how much each product gets mixed and heats it to the appropriate temperature. Another hose goes from the proportioner to the spray gun. Inside the gun head is a blending chamber that mixes the contents of sides A and B and expels it in a pressurized spray.

As the solution comes in contact with a surface, it expands and hardens into a solid piece of foam. Open-cell foam will have a softer texture than closed-cell foam.

Spray Foam Insulation Cost FAQ

We conclude this informative article about spray foam insulation cost by covering a few frequently asked questions customers have about the topic. 

Is spray foam insulation worth it?

Spray foam has many benefits, but it’s also an expensive solution. Despite the higher costs of materials and labor, the money you’ll recoup from energy efficiency will cover your investment in as little as three years. 

How long does spray foam insulation last?

Spray foam is a lifetime product due to being an inert polymer (a material similar to plastic). Once installed, it can last the same length of time as your home. Once you install spray foam insulation, you’ll never need to replace it (unless it becomes damaged, such as by mice). 

How much does it cost to spray foam a 2,000 square foot house?

The cost of materials for a 2,000 square foot house can range from $880 to $3,000. The cost can vary by type of spray foam, the location, and whether you’re doing it yourself or hiring someone. 

Conclusion

The many benefits of spray foam insulation have made it one of the most popular types of insulation used today for remodels, new builds, and repairs. Although it costs more initially, spray foam insulation can save you more money over time than you spend to install it. When installed properly, spray foam insulation can reduce energy bills by up to 50% annually. 

5 Best Spray Foam Kits (Guide & Reviews)

If your home is feeling drafty and your energy bills are through the roof, it may be time to insulate your house. 

Spray foam kits are an easy and effective way to apply spray foam insulation to gaps, cracks, ceiling and wall cavities, attics, basements, and some crawl spaces. Insulating your home can reduce your home’s energy bills, reduce chills and hot spots, and keep your home safe. 

The 5 Best Spray Foam Kit Options

1. Loctite Insulating Foam Sealant

Sale

Loctite TITE FOAM Insulating Foam Sealant, Gaps & Cracks, 12-Ounce Can (Packaging may vary)

  • EXPANDS TO FILL: Loctite TITE FOAM Gaps & Cracks fills, seals, and insulates effectively around gaps and cracks up to 1 inches in size

This insulating foam sealant from Loctite comes in a 12 ounce can with a straw applicator that connects to the nozzle to emit a spray of foam on cracks up to 1″ in size on various types of materials, including wood, PVC, brick, metal, stone, or more.

In terms of application, this polyurethane sealant is simple to prep and apply. It is best to wear safety gear like gloves, as the foam can cause skin irritation. Shake the can for thirty seconds and spray the foam into the desired area (hold the can upside down to spray).

You can use this product indoors or outside (UV-resistant) to block pests, moisture, and air. Once dried, you can sand and paint over the white foam to hide its presence.

Best for: This aerosol can of spray foam is an ideal product for repairing small cracks and gaps around the home to prevent air and pests. But it would not be suitable for insulating an entire house. Nor to use for fireproofing or outdoor settings where there will not be proper coverage to block UV rays.

2. Touch N Seal Spray Foam Insulation Kit

The Touch N Seal spray foam insulation kit helps protect your home from outdoor conditions (heat and cold) for lower energy bills. One kit covers up to 200 feet with low odor foam and 5.48 R-value per inch.

You can use this two-piece kit to apply a 1″ thick layer of spray foam using the 15-foot gun hose. Ten spray nozzles, two cones, and two fans ensure you have all the materials to complete your job in one session.

Best for: This two-part product is ideal for crawl spaces, attics, and insulating walls before hanging sheetrock or other walling. Because there are two containers, this product requires both hands to move around and might be too heavy for some users. If you need to insulate more than 200 feet or need more than 1″ thick foam, you’ll need to choose a more extensive kit.  

3. DAP Touch’ n Seal Spray Foam Insulation Kit

DAP 7565002200 Touch ‘n Seal 200 BF Low GWP 1.75 PCF FR ICC Closed Cell Spray Foam Insulation Kit with Pre-Connected Hoses

  • Airseals and saves energy, Closed cell structure, Class A fire rated, Does not shrink or settle, High R-value 6.6 @ 1″ (25mm)

Another great product from Touch n’ Seal is this DAP spray foam insulation kit. You get two 41 pound tanks, pre-attached hoses, and multiple tips.

This kit sprays closed-cell, Class A fire-rated 1.75 PCF ICC foam that offers soundproofing and thermal insulation without settling or shrinking over time. 

One kit covers 200 bf (board feet = 12″ x12″ x1″ thick) with a dry time of 30 to 60 seconds and a 1 hour cure time and an R-value of 6.6, and a density of 1.75+/-.25pcf. 

Best for: The DAP kit by Touch n’ Seal is an ideal spray foam that sound proofs, insulates, and quick dries with low fume production. Enjoy lower energy bills from this fire retardant low GWP foam.

4. Great Stuff Pro Gaps and Cracks Spray Foam

GREAT STUFF PRO Gaps and Cracks – 24oz Fireblock Foam Insulation Sealant, Pack of 12. Closed Cell, Polyurethane Expanding Spray Foam. Seals & Insulates Gaps Up to 3″. Applicator Gun, Cleaner Included

  • THE GAP AND CRACK ATTACKER! According to the US DoE, the average US home has a 1/2 mile of gaps and cracks. Air leaks account for 25-40% of the energy used for heating and cooling a typical home, resulting in higher utility bills. Fill the gaps and crack down on energy loss with GREAT STUFF PRO GAPS AND CRACKS INSULATING FOAM SEALANT!

The AWF Pro Foam kit by Great Stuff features 12 (24oz) cans of gaps and cracks foam, two cans of gun cleaner, two plastic nozzles, two straws, and one AWF Pro gun (required for using cans).

With this kit, you can tackle any significant cracks or gaps throughout your house to provide better insulation for blocking wind, reducing energy loss, and fire block. One container will cover 970 linear feet (using a ⅜” bead). 

The gun sprays the orange sealant to seal gaps up to 3″ wide on metal, glass, plastics (not all types are applicable), wood, or masonry. The foam seal will be water-resistant, fire-blocking, and airtight. 

Best for: This kit is for sealing all the significant gaps inside your house with a water-resistant, airtight expanding foam. However, this product would not be suitable for all-over coverage for walls, ceilings, or crawl spaces.

5. Seal Spray Insulating Foam

Seal Spray Foam High Performance Closed Cell Insulating Foam Can Kit w/Gun Foam Applicator and 1 Can of Cleaner (150 Board FT-6 Cans)

  • Two component foam performance in one easy-to-use can. Each can is 27.4oz and covers approximately 25 Board Feet (1 Board Feet = 12″ X 12″ x 1″ Thick)

This spray foam kit by Industrial Products comes with the gun, and your choice of spray foam closed cell insulating foam cans and a can of spray gun cleaner. Options are two (50 BF), six (150 BF), eight (200 BF), twelve (300 BF), or 24 cans (600 BF). 

Every 27.4-ounce container has two components that mix to cover 25 board feet, allowing you to seal gaps, cracks or apply a whole layer of insulation for wall coverage. 

An excellent advantage of this kit is that you can take this spray foam kit anywhere, including tight spots, because the cans attach to the gun for application. 

Best for: This Industrial Products spray foam kit allows you to apply spray foam in tight locations with no heavy equipment to carry.

What Are Spray Foam Kits?

Spray foam kits, also called froth packs, is low-pressure polyurethane spray foam typically consisting of two components (open or closed cell) with quick set abilities to create an airlock seal.

A kit should include the spray foam, accessories needed (nozzles, hoses), and an applicator, typically a spray nozzle gun that allows you to cover more service areas. Smaller applicators that come in an aerosol can require a plastic straw for the distribution of the foam. 

Many people choose to use spray foam kits to seal their homes rather than paying the costs to hire a professional to use a truck sprayer. 

How Does a Spray Foam Kit Work (And Does It Really)?

With two-component kits, the A and B solutions combine to create a frothy mixture that rapidly expands and chemically cures into a stiff foam. These kits come with two separate cylinders which attach to the spray gun via hoses. 

Other kits, which are better for tight spaces and small jobs, come in both components inside one container. Shaking causes the mixture to combine inside the canister. 

Spray foam kits are a great way to avoid the fees of having a professional seal small areas of your home. However, if you’re inexperienced, you could run into some typical troubles. 

Foam insulation in your home can reduce up to 50% of energy loss (most energy loss is due to air leaks). Not only does that save you money, but it’s also better for the environment.

The most important thing to remember is that timing matters if you’re tackling a spray foam job yourself. Once you start spraying, you can’t stop for longer than thirty seconds. The quick-drying time of the foam will cause the nozzle to clog, which can ruin the product inside the tank. 

If you wait longer than 30 seconds between sprays, you’ll have to swap out the nozzle. Many kits come with additional nozzles. If your equipment doesn’t, it’s a bright idea to pick up some spares before beginning your project. 

Another issue that is more common with DIY spray foam kits versus professionals is the mess. You have to be careful where the spray lands because it will stick to any surface and can be problematic to get off. 

Pro tip: Cover any surfaces with a protective layer and tape to reduce the foam getting everywhere. And wear old clothing you don’t mind getting damaged. You’ll also need a face mask, gloves, and eye coverage. 

Ways to Use Spray Foam

Spray foam is a product that has many versatile uses. While the primary use is to seal cracks and gaps so that air can’t get in, spray foam can also be a deterrent to insects, pests, and rodents. 

Filling any small holes with foam can provide an impenetrable barrier against unwanted houseguests. Although mice can and will chew through the foam, so it’s not a 100% guarantee for these pests. Look for formulas with rodent and pest repellants for extra protection. Look for holes around outside vents, faucets, and pipes. 

Adding sealant to the underside of your roof can prevent air and moisture from getting inside your house. Excess moisture in the attic can lead to mildew, mold, or wood rot. 

If your foundation has cracks that allow water to seep through, settling under your house, you can use spray foam to seal the cracks. Closed-cell spray foam would work better because it can resist moisture and create a block so water can’t get through. 

Some people also use spray foam to insulate crawl spaces and basements. Again, closed-cell foams work better in these conditions. 

Spray foam can also go in wall cavities – the space between the studs. Adding foam insulation behind your walls can reduce sound travels, keep the temperature-controlled in the room, and save you money on electric bills. If your plumbing does a lot of rattling, open-cell foam can reduce the noises that come from the wall. 

Applying spray foam around windows and exterior doors is crucial for energy efficiency. Even a slight gap or crack can let enough outside temperature inside that your ac/heating system has to operate more frequently. 

Got a wobbly fixture in the shower? Adding a small amount of expanding foam around the loose piece can create a firm hold. Once the foam cures, you can use a knife to remove the excess foam that’s sticking out around the space. Then affix the cover back in place. No one will be the wiser. You can also do this for loose pipes.

But outside the home, spray foam can also work for insulating boats (or yachts), container carriers, garages, vehicles, and trailers. 

Types of Spray Foam Kits

Spray foam comes in two types: closed-cell or open-cell. The main difference between the two types is different R-values and performance needs. 

Open-Cell

The open-cell foam contains air bubbles within the polyurethane that create a less dense, softer foam with an R-value ranging from 3.6 to 3.8 per inch. This type is cheaper and works excellent for soundproofing but falls short on performance for thermal insulation. You can use it to keep structures cool in hot climates, but it won’t protect against the cold outside.

Best for: Open-cell foam is best for sealing cracks and gaps in homes where you want to have silence and have less need for thermal insulation.

Closed-Cell

Because closed-cell foam is denser, it has an R-value between 6 and 7.14 per inch. This type of foam also contains trapped air bubbles inside the polyurethane. But a blowing agent (hydrofluoroolefin or hydrofluorocarbon) forms these air bubbles, giving the foam more density and rigidness. 

CC (closed-cell) foam is better for thermal insulation since the density blocks air movement. This foam also has the advantages of being water-resistant, which can stop the build-up of moisture which can cause mold and mildew.

High density closed cell expands less than a medium-density CC, providing more strength to the structure. This type of spray foam is excellent for coating flat roof surfaces when covered with silicone spray to prevent UV damage. It’s also used for insulating storage tanks.

Best for: You should choose closed-cell spray foam insulation for structures in colder climates where you need a water-resistant airlock barrier that will provide thermal insulate. 

Spray foam kits can come in multiple styles. They range from a two-component system in separate containers (large tanks that resemble propane tanks for grills) – challenging to move around for a solo job. You can also find some smaller, in a can no bigger than hairspray that contains both ingredients. 

While the can and straw are great for one or two spots, you’ll save time and energy by investing in a gun if you’ll be doing multiple areas. This style is better when you’re handling small jobs in areas where there’s not a lot of space or when you’re doing the job solo. 

A spray gun features a knob that allows for flow rate adjustments that change the size of the bead, allowing for better versatility among projects. The extended tip also allows for better control. And best of all, once you’re done spraying, all you have to do is wipe the end clean. The ball inside the tip prevents the foam from curing by blocking air. Like this, foam can last up to a month. And you can attach a can of cleaner anytime your gun needs a good cleaning.

Pro Tip: If you’re trying to get the foam into a tight space where the straw won’t reach when using a can, attach a piece of ¼” tube to the end of the straw. You’ll have extra length and flexibility to get into any space. Remember to clean the line to prevent clogs.

However, the two-component cans might be tricky to use for full coverage of ceiling or wall cavities. These types usually have a lower quantity, meaning you’ll need to buy many refills, and you’ll spend more time swapping the tanks out. 

Pros and Cons of Using Spray Foam As Insulation

As with any product, there are advantages and disadvantages to using spray foam as an insulation source. 

Most professionals consider spray foam to be high-performance – short and long-term. Once the foam hardens, it becomes airtight. 

Another significant benefit is the broader range of use. Tighter spots and hard-to-reach areas are a lot easier when using spray foam over traditional sheet insulation. 

And besides creating an airtight seal, spray foam insulation also has a higher R-value, adds strength to the structure, and can reduce energy bills. Spray foam is a vapor, insulation, and air barrier combined into one. Benefits of spray foam insulation include:

  • Prevents heat loss
  • Improves energy efficiency
  • Lowers seasonal bills (heating and cooling)
  • Reduces moisture accumulation
  • It eliminates the need for a vapor barrier
  • Seals up all places, even odd areas
  • Eliminates air drafts

Now, onto the downsides of spray foam insulation. The most significant drawback of spray foam is that it has a premium (more expensive) price as a premium product compared to other insulation types like fiberglass. 

Spray foam can also be messy, both to the surroundings and the installer. To get a pro look, be sure to follow all manufacturer instructions to the letter. And prep any surfaces that you don’t want to be sprayed. 

Pro tip: If you’ve never used a spray foam gun before, it’s a good idea to practice on some scrap, either using a piece of old wood, a cardboard box, or anything else you can throw away. Take the time to practice the exact pressure you need to get a completely even layer.

Considerations for Buying the Best Spray Foam Kit

When shopping for a spray foam kit, the best choice comes down to your individual needs. The wide variety of styles, types, and features allow you to find an option that gives you all you need. Consider these factors to ensure you get a kit that is right for you.

Size

Regardless of what anyone says, size does matter. There’s no need to spend the money on a sizeable two-component froth pack if you need to seal one hole. Likewise, you might save money by picking a large unit if you’re doing a large job that would take more mixed foam.

Type

You’ll also want to consider your experience level when choosing which type of spray foam kit works best for you. If you have zero knowledge, you will do better with a product that doesn’t require mixing and connecting many hoses. Instead, a can that secures into a gun spray might be the better choice. 

Price

You’ll also want to consider your budget. Closed-cell spray foam costs more, but it adds structural support and other benefits that make the extra cost worthwhile.

The equipment pricing also varies, with two-component froth packs being higher due to the larger, more professional-grade equipment. You’ll also need to consider the price of refills for the tanks.

Spray foam in a can is more cost-friendly, but it’s not eco-friendly since the cans cannot be refilled. There may be recycling centers or facilities that will take the empty containers. 

R-Value

You’ll also want to consider a foam’s R-value (resistance value), which defines how well the foam will insulate. The higher the value, the more insulation the foam will provide. Higher R-values are best for locations with extremely cold winters or hot summers.

Fire resistance

You’ll also want a fire-resistant spray foam. Products come with different fire ratings, which define the degree of fire resistance. Class A fire rating is the best possible rating. 

Density

As we mentioned, the density of spray foam will affect the spray’s insulation abilities. The higher the density, the more benefits you’ll get, such as an airlock, soundproofing, fireproofing, and a water barrier. Spray foams can be low, medium, or high-density. Open-cell foams are low density. Closed-cell can be medium or high.

Open vs. Closed-Cell

Your final consideration should be if the spray foam is closed or open-cell. Open-celled foams are ideal for indoor locations and are more affordable. Some open-cell foams provide sound dampening. But closed-cell foams have better benefits. Closed-cell foams are flood-resistant, work in low temps, have extended longevity (lifespan), and add strength to your structure.

Pro tip: Always check the expiration date of foam sprays before using. Expired foams will not expand properly. 

How to Use Spray Foam Kits (Step-by-Step)

Each system may have different directions on how to assemble and set up. It’s a brilliant idea to read through all of the instructions before attempting to set up or using a spray foam kit, primarily if you’ve never used one before. Despite the variations, it’s roughly the same steps.

  1. Connect hoses (if your kit doesn’t have hoses, you may have to attach a gun or straw)
  2. Rock the tank (or shake) and open valves.
  3. Clear the tank by spraying the foam into a scrap pile or a trash can. Ensure that the mixture looks and expands appropriately.
  4. Check the temperatures. The room and the tank both need to be within optimal conditions for the foam to cure correctly.
  5. Apply spray from 6″ to 24″ away from the surface, in layers no thicker than 2″. You’ll need to use multiple applications, allowing for adequate drying time between layers. Clean or change the nozzles between layers. Every time you change your tip (and when you add the first tip), you’ll need to lube it first. Your kit should come with some lubrication, but you can also use petroleum jelly if you run out. 
  6. Allow to cure. Some spray foams may require 24 hours to pass before it’s safe, while others have a quicker cure time of minutes to hours. 
Pro tip: You can speed up the curing time by applying foam to damp surfaces (if it’s too wet, the foam won’t stick). Use a spray bottle to mist the area and then mist the foam once applied to speed up expansion and curing.

If the foam gets on a surface that you don’t want it to stick to, a quick response with acetone (most nail polish contains this ingredient) can remove the foam before it cures. Once the foam cures, you’ll have to use a scraper, knife, or sander to remove the unwanted material. 

Best Spray Foam Kit FAQ

Before we conclude this buyer’s guide, here’s a short, frequently asked questions section that will cover some information we might not have already covered. 

What is the best spray foam kit?

Any of the options we’ve listed in our product reviews will suit your needs as a spray foam kit. The best spray foam kit will come with all the gear you need to complete your job. 

How do do-it-yourself spray foam kits work?

We provided a step-by-step guide on using a DIY spray foam kit to repair holes, cracks, and gaps in your structure. It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s directions to ensure you’re using your device correctly.  

Can I spray foam my house myself?

You can use a spray foam kit to spray problem areas in your home. Sprayers that keep the components separated until they mix in the gun are best for large areas. But these systems may require more expertise to set up and use. Using the proper nozzle will help you cover more surface area. If you have a big job that needs insulating, it’s usually best left to a professional. 

What is the highest R-value for spray foam insulation?

The R-value of spray foam varies based on whether it’s open-cell or closed-cell. Each layer of spray foam increases the R-value. One layer of open-cell foam is 3.7 R-value per inch, while a closed-cell foam is 6.5 R-value per inch. 

Conclusion

Spray foam kits make it easy for you to sell your house from the air intake and loss, floods, pests and rodents, fire, mold and mildew, and high energy bills. We’ve provided five options for the best spray foam kits for DIY spray insulation applications. We also gave a detailed buyer’s guide giving you all the information you may need to decide on the right spray foam kit for your needs.

10 Types of Flooring To Consider

Picking flooring for your home doesn’t have to be a stressful decision. Knowing your needs and options helps make the process faster and simpler. 

We’ve created a roundup review of ten of the best types of flooring for your house. We also provide a detailed buyer’s guide that will help you with your shopping trip. 

The Best Types Of Flooring For Your House

1. Selkirk Vinyl Plank Paneling

The Selkirk Vinyl plank paneling is a click-lock system of 4.mm thick, 7.2″ W x 48″ L planks made of vinyl SPC. A 12 mil (.3mm) wear layer offers surface protection, while a 1mm IXPE pad provides cushion.

This durable vinyl planking is 100% waterproof, allowing for use in rooms with high moisture risks. And with six attractive wood colors, this flooring goes with any decor.

You can install this flooring over a wide variety of existing flooring without any subfloor prep, saving time and money. And because the pieces snap together with a four-sided micro bevel edge Uniclic locking system, anyone can do the installation, even if you’ve never done it before. 

The manufacturer recommends ordering a sample (4″ x 7.2″ x 3/16″) before purchasing an entire box. The color can vary from the picture.

Pro tip: To determine how many boxes you will need, take the square footage amount you need and an additional 10% to 15% (for cuts) and round to the closest number. Each box contains 24 sq ft (2 boxes = 48 sq ft, 3 boxes = 72 sq ft, etc.).
Benefits Disadvantages
Six attractive colors Not many reviews
Easy installation Color may vary from picture
Waterproof
Durable scratch and scuff resistant
Limited 15 year lifetime warranty
Best for: This flooring is the perfect companion for kitchens, bathrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, or entryways. The imitation wood grain allows the Selkirk to be used in every room of your house for a complete match or use different colors in various rooms to separate the space.

2. BuildDirect Vanier Engineered Hardwood

The BuildDirect Vanier is an engineered prefinished white oak hardwood. The best thing about this flooring is you can use it to get the look of natural wood in places where wood can’t go, such as below-grade basements. 

These multi-layered planks use a click-lock tongue and groove system with micro-beveled edges to secure in place, allowing for quick and easy installation for beginners or experts. You can also glue these planks down rather than leave them floating if preferred.

This flooring is an OSB core covered with a 4mm low-gloss UV cured oil wear layer in a light brown tone with natural stained grain lines. Each plank is 0.63″ thick, 7.50″ W. Each box covers 22.7 sq ft. There’s also the option to buy a bundle, which covers 158.9 sq ft. Or try a sample to see how the color looks in your space. 

Benefits Disadvantages
15 year finish warranty/lifetime structural warranty One color option
Suitable for all rooms No customer reviews
Works in basements
Rich wood grain look
Budget friendly
Best for: The Vanier is the perfect option for when you want the look of wood, but you don’t have the budget or the proper circumstances (basements, kitchens, entryways, laundry rooms).

3. HTB Teak Flooring Tiles

These HTB Teak flooring tiles are a fantastic option for pool decks, patios, covered porches, sunrooms, or even indoors. Made of 100% teak, this product is FSC certified with a PP plastic base and an eco-friendly, non-toxic wax oil finish.

This 12″ x 12″ tile flooring has an interlocking buckle design that keeps the tiles locked securely together; no tools or glue for installation. 

This design does leave a small gap between the pieces, and the plastic elevates the wood 1″, which gives it excellent drainage, filters sand, and offers ventilation. Grooves provide the sanded tiles friction, so there’s less risk of slipping when wet.  

Benefits Disadvantages
Indoor/outdoor use One color option
Easy install No sample available
Waterproof
Grooved for friction
100% teak wood
Best for: The HTB Teak tiles are a great flooring to install in outdoor areas, like patios, tiki bars, pool decks, entryways, showers, balconies, and more. But they can also go indoors in rooms where you want tropical, exotic wood flooring.

4. Lucida Luxury Vinyl Floor Tiles

Luxury Vinyl Flooring Tiles by Lucida USA | Glue-Down Adhesive Flooring for DIY Installation | 18 Stone-Look Planks | GlueCore+ | 36 Sq. Feet

  • LUXURY VINYL FLOOR TILES Lucida USA brings Peel & Stick flooring up a notch with GlueCore floor tiles – strong at the core, stylish at the surface with rigid core performance.

The Lucida Luxury vinyl floor tiles give you a look of stone without the expense or complicated installation. These peel and stick floor tiles are perfect for beginners who do not want the hassles to cut and glue or assemble wood or stone floors. 

These tiles have HD film prints that resemble natural marble in five colors with micro-bevel edges. The vinyl surface is 100% waterproof and easy to clean. Plus, an IXPE water-resistant underlayment for noise reduction. 

The 22-millimeter wear layer is 4x UV coated, finished with ceramic bead and urethane to create a commercial strength. Beneath is a Virgin premium core. Each 2.5mm thick, 12″ w x 24″ L tile has CoreBond adhesive on the bottom, designed to adhere to any surface. Peel, stick, and press. One box contains 18 tiles, which covers 36 sq ft. There’s also a sample pack.

Benefits Disadvantages
4x UV coated wear layer Might be challenging to align properly
Resembles real stone Corners may peel up or bubbles may arise if you don’t smooth properly
Noise reduction 
100% waterproof
Easy to install
Best for: The Lucinda Luxury tiles are an ideal flooring in areas where you need extreme water resistance and want an option that can lay over existing floors. 

5. QEP Cork Underlayment

Sale

QEP 72003Q 1/4-Inch, 6mm, 4-Foot x 25-Foot Cork Underlayment

  • Easy to install in both glue-down and looselay configurations

Most floorings require an underlayment, and even if it’s not needed, it’s a beneficial addition. This cork underlayment by QEP is suitable for going under slate, laminate, ceramic, porcelain, marble, stone, engineered, or hardwood. 

This ¼” thick natural cork works for sound reduction (both surface and for between floor levels) and as a crack isolation membrane, plus insulation. And best of all, it’s easy to install. 

However, this 10.65″ x 48.5″ x 10.65″ sheet cork underlayment does require gluing to keep in place. The company recommends using a 75-pound roller and a Roberts Cork Adhesive.   

Benefits Disadvantages
Insulates rooms for heat and cooling efficiency Rough texture may be damaged if handled too rough during installation 
Works for multiple floorings Seams may be difficult to match up between rolls
Reduces sounds from surface and floor levels
Crack insulation membrane
Sheet form is easy to roll out and cut
Best for: This cork underlayment is the perfect component to add under your flooring to reduce sound, insulate, and prevent friction cracks to the frame or flooring. 

6. SomerTile Porcelain Floor Tile

The SomerTile porcelain floor tile gives your floors a unique look with a random assortment of variations and patterns in each box, which can make it challenging to match up perfectly but is excellent for random coordination. 

These hexagonal tiles have a low sheen smooth glazed finish that’s PEI rated III, making them durable enough for medium-duty residential floors with little dirt and normal foot traffic. The glazed surface makes it water-resistant and slip-resistant, making it perfect for showers, backsplashes, patios, or pool decks.

You can install these 9.75″ x 8.5″ x 0.39″ thick tiles DIY using tile spacers and mortar. One box covers 11.56 square feet and contains 25 tiles.

Benefits Disadvantages
Hexagonal shape creates unique flooring Might be challenging to install for beginners 
Waterproof Patterns vary by box
Porcelain has a long lifespan
Easy to clean
Unique color patterns to stand out
Best for: The SomerTile porcelain hexagonal tiles are a fabulous choice for people who like a floor with contrasting colors that will pop with vibrancy. 

7. Stone Center Black Marble Flooring Mosaic Tile

Stone Center Online Nero Marquina Black Marble 5 inch Hexagon Mosaic Tile Polished Kitchen Bath Wall Floor Backsplash Shower (1 Sheet)

  • Premium Grade Nero Marquina Black Marble Hexagon Mosaic Tile. Black Nero Marquina Marble Honed 5 inch Hex Mosaic Wall and Floor Tiles are perfect for any residential / commercial projects. The 5″ Nero Marquina Black Marble Big Hexagonal Mosaic Tile can be used for kitchen backsplash, bathroom flooring, shower surround, dining room, entryway, corridor, kitchen backsplash, spa, etc.

This black marble honeycomb mosaic tile by Stone Center consists of multiple 5″ hexagons that are 0.31″ thick. These polished, glossy tiles are waterproof and versatile, working for backsplashes or flooring in showers, bathrooms, or kitchens. 

Each sheet contains two columns and four rows of tiles (eight tiles per sheet), mounted to a 0.9 square foot mesh tile sheet with a 1/16″ wide grout. Each black tile has white veins and fine, compact grains.

You will have to install these sheets on a cement board or some other waterproof underlay and use cement or grout to seal the gaps.

Benefits Disadvantages
Waterproof Design may not appeal to all
Each sheet contains eight small tiles No other colors available
Polished glossy look
White veins give character
Honeycomb design
Best for: This black marble honeycomb hexagonal tile would go well in modern-themed homes or a classic black and white design.

8. All American Carpet Tiles

All American Carpet Tiles Victory 23.5 x 23.5 Easy to Install Do It Yourself Peel and Stick Carpet Tile Squares – 9 Tiles Per Carton – 34.52 Square Feet Per Carton (Stormy)

  • QUICK AND EASY INSTALLATION: Saves you both time and money. Simply peel off the plastic film and place in position. Complete installation and design instructions in every carton.

If you want the look and feel of carpet without the difficult install, these All American carpet tiles might be suitable for you. These 23.5″ x 23.5″ peel and stick carpet tiles are easy to install for any skill level. 

You can create various configurations using different colors or by mixing up the level loop seams available in five colors. Installation is as simple as peeling off the plastic and placing the tile in place. The adhesive backing seals in place to almost any flooring and can pull up with ease if you want to change the design later. 

These 100% solution-dyed Olefin yarn tiles have Scotchgard Protector that prevents stains and soils and allows for use in any location, including dorm rooms, entryways, laundry rooms, playrooms, basements, and other areas where you want comfy cushioned carpeting. 

Benefits Disadvantages
Easy to install Because backing is releasable, tiles may slip
Scotchgard Protector Texture may be rough for some users
Versatile use
Adhesive backing
Removable 
Best for: The All American carpet tiles give you the advantages of the carpet but are easily installed and more affordable. This option will not stain like other carpets, making it perfect for areas with small children or pets.

9. FloorPops Peel & Stick Floor Tile

Sale

FloorPops FP2942 Medina Peel & Stick Floor Tile, Grey, 10 Count, Gray

  • Peel and stick to apply. Residential use CE Certified

The FloorPops come in a Medina pattern that allows you to achieve an antique style flooring without the expensive costs of painted ceramic or porcelain tiles. 

These tiles have a peel and stick design that allows you to peel off the protective plastic and place the piece directly on your floor. It’s a simple solution for high quality for beginners. You will need a smoothing tool to ensure there are no air bubbles.

These 12″ x 12″ x .06″ thick tiles are virgin vinyl that’s water-resistant and easy to clean. The low luster finish and textured design give this flooring a classic appeal. 

Benefits Disadvantages
Medina pattern Requires a smoothing tool to prevent bubbles
Easy to install Might be difficult to line up even without guidelines
Large tiles make your floor a showpiece
Water resistant
Easy to clean
Best for: The unique design of these peel and stick vinyl tabs makes them limited to rooms where you don’t mind dramatic flooring. Many people choose to use these in kitchens, laundry rooms, mudrooms, screened-in porches, or bathrooms. 

10. Yaheetech Interlocking Patio Deck Tiles

Sale

Yaheetech 27PCS Interlocking Patio Deck Tiles Outdoor Flooring for Patio Garden Deck Poolside Fir Wood Indoor Outdoor Natural Wood

  • SAFE TO USE – Fully sanded tiles prevent any undesired injury caused by wood splinters. Grooves on each wood slat increase friction and decrease the accident rate of skidding when the tiles are wet. Also, the plastic backing rises up the wood and allows for adequate drainage and ventilation.

These Yaheetech Interlocking patio deck tiles allow you to achieve the look of a real wood deck without the cost or hassle. Available in five colors, each wood plank receives a complete sanding to prevent splinters.

Grooves in each plank reduce the chances of slipping when wet. A plastic backing allows the panels to rest above the ground for adequate ventilation and drainage, making them perfect for outdoor use.

One box covers 27 square feet with 27 tiles (12″ x 12″) with 2.2″ wide fir wood planks (five planks per tile). The interlocking snaps make these tiles easy to connect and stay locked in place. And they’re easy to detach for easy cleaning or storing. 

Benefits Disadvantages
Easy to install or take apart Colors may vary from picture
Can set up anywhere No sample product
Indoor/Outdoor use
Made with real wood planks
Grooved planks prevent slipping
Best for: The Yaheetech Interlocking patio deck tiles are the perfect way to have a wood deck for a fraction of the cost that’s removable and relocatable.

What Are The Most Popular Different Types Of Flooring Material?

Flooring comes in various types of materials, allowing you to find an option that meets your needs. Different materials will be better for specific areas of the house. For instance, in rooms with water, you’d need a water-resistant material, which rules out carpet and hardwood. Let’s look at some of the most popular types of flooring material. 

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood floors are the most common choice for flooring due to appearance and a return on investment (ROI). This type of flooring works well in many indoor spaces, although it isn’t the best choice for rooms with heavy traffic and the threat of getting wet, such as bathrooms, laundry rooms, or mudrooms. In some cases, you can use hardwood floors in the kitchen and dining room.

You can find prefinished or unfinished hardwood flooring as engineered or solid wood. Solid hardwood comes in ¾” tongue and groove planks. You can nail these solid planks to a wood subfloor or glue them down over the top of concrete. 

The biggest drawback of using hardwood (including engineered) is the price and the required maintenance to keep your floors looking great throughout the years. Any hardwood floor must have a clear coat (typically polyurethane) finish protecting the floors from moisture. However, this coating is prone to excessive wear and scratching if not cleaned correctly. 

Pro tip: If your flooring is prefinished, the work is done once you’ve installed the floors. But with unfinished flooring, you’ll need to sand it and add a finish on-site after installation. All hardwood floors require some type of topcoat that will protect the floors from damage. . 

Engineered Wood

Engineered hardwood looks like real wood due to a thin layer of natural wood veneer covering layers of plywood (an inexpensive wood byproduct). This material allows you to enjoy the pleasure of wood grain without the high cost. 

This style can also install via nails or glue. Some options even come with click-together pieces that allow for installing a floating floor over a cork or foam underlay. And there are also tongue and groove types that form a tight seam without using nails or glue.

One advantage engineered wood has over hardwood is installing this material over existing floors like old hardwood or concrete subfloors. However, you can only refinish these floors once; unlike hardwood floors, you can refinish multiple times. 

You can use engineered wood floors in bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, and any places you would use hardwood. But you can also use it for enclosed porches and basements. 

Pro Tip: If you’re DIY installing your engineered hardwood floors, types that click together are the easiest and quickest to lay down, even for inexperienced users. Here’s a video showing three different methods of installing engineered hardwood floors.

Tile

Tile can be ceramic or porcelain and is a favorite for adding elegance and glamour to bathrooms, kitchens, dining rooms, entryways, mudrooms, or laundry rooms. 

If you’re looking for a material with the most versatile style and color, tile is the best option. You can find tiny mosaics, tiles that mimic wood, or large tab tiles, among others. 

Porcelain tiles offer the most durability and minimal upkeep. The grout does need periodic resealing to prevent stains. And you can find some excellent budget-friendly (or premium) tiles, allowing any budget to choose this material.

It’s important to consider that tile is both hard and cold, so it’s probably not the best solution for bedrooms, living rooms, playrooms, or formal dining rooms. And when using tile in wet locations like bathrooms or entryways, look for options with non-slip properties.

Pro Tip: Installing tile is labor-intensive but possible for DIY’ers. You will need a sturdy subfloor that can handle the weight of the tile and the tile backer base or cement board. If you’re new to tiling, watch a few how-to videos on YouTube. For small, simple jobs, you can tackle it yourself. But if you want a seamless spa look, it’s best left to the pros.

Bamboo

Bamboo is fast becoming a favorite for an eco-friendly alternative to hardwood floors. You can find bamboo flooring as solid strips or engineered planks in multiple patterns that enhance the grain differently. 

Bamboo that’s flat grain features darker stripes that highlight the bamboo nodes. Vertical grain features tightly packed long narrow strips. In comparison, end-grain bamboo features multiple short strips.

Benefits include easy installation, higher moisture resistance than wood (although it will swell or crack in high humidity), easy maintenance and cleaning, and multiple refinishes. Darker colors are less durable than light shades. And it’s prone to scratches and dents.

Pro tip: Although bamboo is an eco-friendly option because it grows faster than wood and absorbs carbon, most bamboo comes from China, which causes a higher carbon footprint. When shopping for bamboo products, check with the manufacturer to discover origin and production. Some varieties have formaldehyde-containing glues that can be harmful.

Laminate

Laminate is a cost-friendly solution for people who want the look of hardwood floors without the steep price tag. This flooring is made of resin and wood pulp, designed to resemble natural wood (from maple or cherry to reclaimed barn wood or wide-plank pine). 

This option is a medium-density-fiberboard (MDF) core with a top photo layer covered by a polymer finish. Most laminate flooring is click-together to form a floating floor, allowing for a faster, easier installation. Although it’s possible to glue laminate down, it’s rarely necessary and often unadvised.

The biggest downside of laminate is that you can’t refinish the surface if it shows signs of damage. If your laminate gets damaged, there is no way to repair it. You’ll have to replace the piece. 

Now, laminate does have a durable finish that’s stain and moisture-resistant. But if moisture gets into the joints between the planks, it can cause the material to chip and swell. The bottom line is that laminate is a reasonably affordable flooring alternative to hardwood.

Pro tip: Laminate is an affordable DIY solution to installing hardwoods. Before deciding to do the work yourself, check out this video to see the process and some helpful tips. Some beginners may find the technique too intimidating to attempt solo. 

Linoleum

Anyone who lived in the 1990s or prior remembers linoleum floors, particularly in the kitchen and bathroom. Thankfully, this product has changed with the times and is now available in a wide range of colors and styles in plank, tile, or sheet form. 

Many people choose to install linoleum in high traffic areas of the house where there’s high moisture (kitchen, bathroom dining rooms, or laundry rooms) due to this material’s water resistance. 

This type of flooring is made with natural materials such as linseed oil, cork, and jute. If you like bright colors, linoleum is the pick for you. You can find mid to high-end products, but there are no budget picks.

Pro tip: Which type of linoleum you choose will affect the installation process. But most varieties are easy to DIY. Here’s a video demonstrating how to install sheet linoleum. If you’re installing linoleum square tiles, try this demonstration. Or this one for linoleum planks.

Cork

Cork is another resilient, sustainable flooring that comes as tiles that glue to the floor or planks that click together to form a floating floor. You can use cork flooring in living rooms, bedrooms, playrooms, and sometimes kitchens. But it’s not for high traffic areas or wet locations like mudrooms, laundry rooms, or bathrooms. 

This material is highly eco-friendly due to being made of bark from a tree that can be harvested every eight to ten years without hurting the tree. This bark is then boiled clean, ground, and mixed with resin to form compressed sheets that are baked in a kiln to complete. A few types have a natural cork veneer over high-density fiberboard or compressed cork (engineered cork). 

Advantages include a warm, cushy floor under your feet that’s slip-proof, resistant to mold, fire, termites, and mildew, with a lifespan of 40 years with the correct maintenance. However, it’s not resistant to moisture, dents, tears, or scratches and requires resealing every two to three years using polyurethane and wax. 

Pro tip: Cork is another moderate DIY flooring installation that you can tackle by following this video. Try this video for installing cork tiles that you have to glue to your subfloor. 

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tiles are a combination of shale and clay placed in a kiln to heat up and form hard pieces. This material comes in various colors, patterns, and shapes, but not all types will be durable enough to use for flooring.

This type of tile can come as glazed ceramic (glass-like coating in any color or texture), quarry tile (unglazed with a rough texture for more slip-resistance in limited colors), terracotta (unglazed tile in earth tones), or porcelain (extra-hard and durable as unglazed or glazed with stain-resistance).

As we mentioned in the tile category above, ceramic tiles will be hard and cold under your feet and make footsteps sound louder. This material isn’t desirable for all home areas, especially with small children or cold climates.

Pro tip: Tile can be a DIY job, but you’ll have to pay close attention to details to ensure your product comes out clean and polished. You may run into trouble if you have to cut pieces of your tile for corners. Here’s a video on how to install ceramic tile flooring.

Carpet

Carpet needs no introduction, as everyone has seen a carpeted floor at least once in their life. The most significant pull that attracts clients who are debating between different flooring types is the many different styles and colors. 

This flooring is also easy to install and looks great (at first). Because the texture is soft, cushiony, and textured, carpet is an excellent addition to areas of the home where you want to minimize noise from footsteps. 

Many people prefer to use carpets in bedrooms or as flooring for upper levels of a multistory home. But this is a less preferred option for high traffic areas downstairs, like living rooms or dining rooms. And it should never go in locations with significant moisture, such as kitchens, bathrooms, or laundry rooms. 

Due to the fabric’s tendency to stain, any spills or dirt can irreversibly damage the carpet, causing the carpet to lose its appeal, resistance, and lifespan. Pets, children, and improper cleaning are the biggest threats to the carpet.

When choosing a carpet for your home, you’ll need to weigh the color and style carefully. Your color choice should be a neutral shade that will go with the current and future design themes. 

Pro Tip: Installing carpet can be a tedious task that might be challenging for DIYers. Here’s a video showing the process. Many people prefer to leave carpet installation to a professional. If you’re considering selling your house, carpets with bright colors usually get your home rejected by sellers. 

Stone

Stone flooring allows you to enjoy an elegant, luxurious material with depth and dimension. Natural stone materials are pretty popular and hugely expensive and can include marble, slate, travertine, and granite. 

While these materials are more durable, the different materials can require other care. Polished surfaces show scuffs and scratch more than a tumbled surface. Unfortunately, these surfaces can chip with impacts and have porous surfaces that can be difficult to clean and easy to stain. 

Some stone tiles can even work for outdoor settings, like patios, outdoor courtyards, and enclosed porches. Due to the hard surface, these floorings might not be an ideal solution for children’s rooms, playrooms, or bedrooms.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

Pro tip: Natural stone tiles are heavy and can be difficult to lay, often requiring professional installation rather than DIY. Here’s a video demonstrating the install process if you want to try it yourself. Be aware that the porousness of the stone can affect the material’s durability. The more absorbent the material, the more likely it will be to crack, stain, or swell.

Vinyl

Vinyl is a resilient type of flooring that comes in easy-to-install planks, sheets, or tiles. These floors do not have to be glued or nailed down on your floor, making for a quick install.

And their moisture resistance makes them the perfect addition to kitchens, dining rooms, bathrooms, mudrooms, laundry rooms, and basements where there’s high moisture and the risk of water getting on the floor.

Vinyl is a type of plastic, typically a mixture of acrylic, PVC, and other polymers. You can find this flooring in different styles, prices, and qualities – budget, mid-range, and premium. 

Pro Tip: Vinyl is a great DIY option due to the ease of installation. Even if you’ve never put down a floor before, you should be able to install vinyl planks or tiles with minimal issues. Check out this video to see how easy it is!

Polished Concrete

Polished concrete floors are becoming a successful design feature for modern-style homes. Because concrete is wet and dries hard after being poured, you can add stains, dyes, or color pigments that turn your concrete a different color than the traditional dull gray.

This type of flooring can have extended longevity, extreme durability, and versatile use for indoor or outdoor settings. Many people choose concrete floors for their main living spaces, including living rooms, playrooms, dining rooms, laundry rooms, bathrooms, kitchens, and dens due to the water resistance and easy cleaning.

However, due to the hardness, it might not be suitable flooring for small children or people with stability issues, as a fall can cause injury. Adding an area rug over your concrete floors adds warmth and comfort.

Pro tip: Although there are only five steps required to install polished concrete flooring, due to the difficulty, intensive labor, and time, most people prefer to leave the job to the pros. Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing polished concrete floors, and here’s a helpful video.

What Is the Best Flooring for Different Rooms of the House? 

The great news about having so many different flooring materials is that you can choose floorings based on location. Different areas in your home will have varying needs.

Kitchen

Kitchens require special considerations when it comes to flooring. Many people spend a significant portion of their time in the kitchen, whether to cook, eat, or conversationalize.

In addition to needing to hold up well to frequent, heavy traffic, kitchen floors should also be water-resistant or waterproof. But you’ll also need to consider whether the floor becomes slick when wet. Kitchens do best with non-slip floors.

And finally, you’ll need something easy to clean and comfortable to stand on for long periods (such as cleaning or cooking). The most popular choices for kitchen flooring are linoleum, natural stone, ceramic tile, and some woods that have water resistance.

Pro tip: When considering color, think about how your flooring will match your walls, cabinets, and backsplash. Light colors can make smaller spaces appear larger, while darker colors might hide dirt and scuffs better. Darker colors can also help tone down a room that’s so bright, it’s almost sterile.

Bathroom

Floors in the bathroom require waterproofing, as there’s high moisture and a significant chance of the floor getting wet. 

Natural stone materials work excellently in high-moisture environments like the bathroom. Consider limestone, marble, granite, or slate. A ceramic tile is also a suitable option that might be more affordable. 

For those on a tight budget, vinyl tiles or linoleum are reasonable solutions that can be easy to DIY, allowing maximum savings. Concrete floors are also great in bathrooms, although it’s best to leave this install to the pros. 

Pro tip: Any material used in the bathroom will need to go over the cement board or other waterproof subflooring to prevent the floor from rotting out if water seeps through the flooring.

Living Room

The living room, family room, den, and playrooms allow you to choose from various materials. Because just about any material can work in this area, you’re only limited by personal choice. 

If you want to add warmth to your room, stone tiles or hardwood are great options. Complete the design by placing area rugs to break up the open space and for cozy cushioning. Carpet is another popular choice.

Pro tip: When choosing area rugs, match the colors with other color accents in your room like the curtains, throw pillows, or lamps. Light colors help brighten a dark room, while darker colors go well with rustic or modern designs.

Bedroom

The bedroom also gives you the freedom to choose from a wide variety of materials. This is another place that’s more about personal preference. However, you may want to consider a material that offers noise reduction.

You can also use area rugs to keep your feet warm if you use cold, hard materials like wood, tile, or laminate. Rugs can also reduce the sound of footsteps. 

Many people place carpets in the bedroom, especially for small children at risk of falling. But carpets are easy to stain and hard to clean, which is why rugs are the best of both worlds.

Pro tip: Stone and ceramic tile can cause an echo effect with footsteps, vibrations, or other noise. Laminate and wood also intensify the sound of feet, making them poor options for bedrooms when used alone. Cork is an eco-friendly, sound-muffling option that’s priced reasonably.

Considerations When Buying Flooring

When choosing flooring for your home, it helps to have specific criteria to consider. Doing so ensures you pick a product that will meet your individual needs. Let’s look at a few factors you will want to consider when buying flooring.

Durability

Any flooring needs to be durable, which is why there are materials specifically designed for this purpose. When shopping for flooring, consider the room and its uses. 

If your room experiences high traffic, such as entryways, living rooms, or family rooms, you’ll want a flooring material that can withstand lots of use while being resistant to scratches, dents, and heavy use. 

Installation

Another factor to consider is installation. If you plan to DIY your floors, you may have limits on the type of material you choose, especially if you’re a beginner. 

As you browse through the different materials of flooring we present, you’ll see that we list pro tips about the installation of the flooring, including helpful videos and the necessary experience level. 

Cleaning

Another factor that can play a significant role in your decision-making process is the ease of cleaning. You wouldn’t want to choose the flooring that you will have to clean after each use. 

You also don’t want a material that gets dirty quickly, doesn’t last long, or is difficult to clean. Most floors require sweeping and mopping (or cleaning with a vacuum for hard floors). 

Carpets require a vacuum for regular cleaning and steam cleaning for deep cleaning. Because these materials are fabric, they can stain and soil quickly. 

Some materials like tile and hardwood need refinishing or updated regularly to keep them in optimal condition.  

Price

The final consideration should always be the budget. The majority of homeowners have limited funds allocated for new flooring.

Materials vary in costs, so there’s something for everyone’s budget. Many imitation materials let you get the look of the material you want without the steep price. 

You can find synthetic products that look like wood, stone, and other natural materials, that are easy to install, affordable, and long-lasting.

Types of Flooring FAQ

Which type of flooring is best?

It’s difficult to say which material is best since there are multiple types of materials and some rooms need different features. Laminate, linoleum, or vinyl work great for rooms where there’s water. Hardwood or engineered wood is suitable for all other areas of the home.

What is the most durable type of flooring?

Porcelain tile is the most durable flooring material, able to resist moisture, scratches, dents, and other damage. It also requires less maintenance and is the easiest to clean.

What are the types of flooring commonly used?

The most commonly used flooring materials are carpet, linoleum, vinyl, hardwood, tile (porcelain and ceramic) and laminate.

What is the longest lasting flooring?

The longest lasting flooring is tile, either ceramic or porcelain. 

Where to buy home flooring online?

Overstock.com, Amazon, and straight from the manufacturer’s website are the best places to shop online. Wayfair is also an option.

What Is the Best Flooring for Pets?

The best material for pets is vinyl, due to its durability. Tile, laminate, bamboo, and solid or  engineered hardwood are also viable options.

Are There Eco-Friendly, Sustainable Flooring Products?

Bamboo and cork are two eco-friendly products. Bamboo is considered sustainable because it grows quickly and cork is made from tree bark, without harming the tree in any way.

Can I Have Different Types of Flooring in my House?

Floors can be matching (all the same floors) or coordinated, which is when you use different types and colors of floors that complement each other. There is no right or wrong answer.

How Many Different Types of Flooring Can I Have in my House?

You can have a different flooring in every room in your house if you want but this rarely creates a cohesive look. 

Should Wood Floors Match Throughout the House?

Attempting to match up all the wood floors in your home can be challenging unless you redo every room at the same time. And even then, there may not be a complete matchup of grains. 

Conclusion

We hope you enjoyed this review of the best types of flooring to consider for your home. Be sure to keep the buyer’s guide handy when you’re ready to shop. Our criteria will help you pick materials that suit your room’s needs. Don’t forget to check out our top ten recommended products first thing.

10 Best Flushing Toilets (Guide & Reviews)

While we may take our flushing toilets for granted, it’s worth remembering that they are a relatively new invention. Even as late as the start of the 20th century, many people didn’t have toilets let alone flushing models. 

Today, we have powerful, water-efficient toilets that safely remove human waste with zero fuss, but which flushing toilets are the best?

We review 10 of the best flushing toilets and rate them on price, performance, and efficiency to put you in the picture. 

The 10 Best Flushing Toilets

1.  WOODBRIDGE T-0019 Dual Flush One Piece Toilet


WOODBRIDGE T-0019 Cotton White toilet | Modern Design, One Piece, Dual Flush

  • ✅ [LUXURIOUS MODERN DESIGN]: Luxurious Modern Design one piece toilet , Clean, sleek look and compliment with different styles like modern , craftsman , traditional and etc.

This Woodbridge toilet stands out thanks to its clean and minimalist shape. If you want a sleek and stylish feel to your bathroom, this is a great option. So, what sets it apart?

The first thing you notice is it’s a one-piece, so the toilet tank and bowl are formed from the same chunk of clay.

The advantage of this is they are easier to install, and you are less likely to suffer leaks. It also means the toilet is more compact, making it ideal for small spaces and downstairs washrooms. 

It benefits from siphon flushing, which is powerful and efficient. You get a soft-close toilet seat which is guaranteed never to loosen, you get a fully glazed bowl to reduce clogs and staining. It is also WaterSense certified, so it’s frugal with natural resources. 

This is a dual-flush model, so if you are getting rid of liquid waste, use the economy button, and it uses a single gallon of water, but for solids, try the higher setting, and the tank empties 1.6 gallons into the bowl. 

When you compare this to toilets from 20 or 30 years ago, when they used 3 to 6 gallons of water per flush, you can see they have come a long way. 

The final thing in this toilet’s favor is the seat. It is a comfort height seat, meaning it is easier to get on and off, which is invaluable if you are elderly or have mobility issues. 

Cost-wise, this Woodbridge scores relatively well. It sits somewhere in the middle price-point, making it a great contender for bathroom remodels. It’s not so cheap that it feels inadequately constructed, and it’s not so expensive that most couldn’t afford it. 

Weight 119.7 pounds
Dimensions 31 x 18 x 38 inches inches
Type of flush Dual
Gallons per flush 1.0/1.6 
One/two-piece One-piece
Seat included Yes
Price $$$
Warranty 1-year limited

2.  American Standard Cadet Right Height Elongated Pressure Assisted Toilet

American Standard is a well-known brand in American homes. But what sets this Cadet toilet apart from the rest?

It has a power-assisted siphon flush to help remove even the most stubborn solid waste. And to aid the flush action, it is also coated in something called EverGreen, which inhibits the growth of bacteria and mold spores, keeping the toilet squeaky clean. 

This toilet is elongated for greater comfort. Elongated toilets are designed to be more comfortable, especially for children and men when sitting down. 

This toilet meets the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) requirements at 17 inches high, so if you have older relatives, they should find it easier to get on and off. 

Unlike the Woodbridge model, this is a two-piece toilet, so it is a little more complicated to install because you need to connect the tank to the base. It’s also more traditional in shape and design, so it should please those with slightly more conservative tastes.

This model is a single flush, meaning you don’t get the choice of high and low settings. This is fine if you are removing solids, as it uses 1.6 gallons; however, you are wasting water when you flush away fluids. 

The other thing to remember is the seat is sold separately, and that adds to the costs. And speaking of the price, this toilet is over $100 more than the Woodbridge, so while you are getting a great brand name, it is a single flush toilet. 

Weight 93 pounds
Dimensions 30.25 x 20.5 x 30.75 inches
Type of flush Single 
Gallons per flush 1.6
One/two-piece Two-piece
Seat included No
Price $$$$
Warranty 1-year limited

3.  TOTO UltraMax II One-Piece Elongated Toilet

This TOTO UltraMax II has a powerful Tornado flush system that easily removes stubborn waste matter. When you couple it with the CeFiONtect glaze, you get an ultra-clean toilet. 

CeFiONtect is TOTO’s revolutionary coating that prevents particles from sticking to the inside of your toilet bowl. It also reduces mold and mildew and makes the toilet easier to clean. 

It is also an elongated design, making it easier for people to sit in comfort, and reducing splashes and spills when men sit to pee. 

If you have relatives who suffer from mobility issues, this toilet is rated as Universal height, which is the same as the ADAs comfort height classification. 

It means that the seat measures between 17 and 19 inches high, compared to 13 to 15 inches for standard models. 

This model has a 1.28-gallon single flush. That’s about 20 percent less water than the American Standard, at 1.6 gallons. It’s still enough to win WaterSense classification, but it removes your ability to choose which flush you want. 

This model is the most expensive so far. It costs almost double the price of the Woodbridge, which is a lot of money when you think it only has a single flush function. Thank goodness it comes with a soft-close toilet seat included. 

Weight 99 pounds
Dimensions 28 x 16.5 x 28.75 inches
Type of flush Single
Gallons per flush 1.28
One/two-piece One-piece 
Seat included Yes 
Price $$$$
Warranty 1-year limited

4.  Kohler Highline Class Five Flushing Technology Elongated Toilet


Kohler K-3999-0 Highline Comfort Height Two-piece Elongated 1.28 Gpf Toilet with Class Five Flushing Technology And Left-hand Trip Lever, Seat Not Included, White

  • Comfort height elongated toilet bowl with a seat height comparable to that of a standard chair, comfort height toilets make sitting down and standing up easier for people of all ages

The first thing you notice about this Kohler Highline toilet is the price. It is the least expensive to feature so far. The second thing is it is a two-piece, so it is a little more challenging to install. 

However, the styling is more akin to the Woodbridge than the American Standard model. It has a comfort height seat, so it ticks the ADA box for those with mobility issues, and the elongated bowl makes it more universally comfortable. 

You only get one option for flushing, so while it is still WaterSense certified and uses 20 percent less water than the American Standard model, it does restrict your flushing choices. 

This toilet uses a canister flush valve that Kohler claims is the best in its class, with a powerful bulk performance. They also claim that you can throw away your plunger because this flushing action is so potent, it eliminates clogging.

Weight 93 pounds
Dimensions 29.5 x 18 x 31.25 inches
Type of flush Single
Gallons per flush 1.28
One/two-piece Two-piece 
Seat included No 
Price $$
Warranty 1-year limited

5.  American Standard Cadet 3 FloWise 2-Piece Toilet

We come to the second American Standard toilet to make the list. This Cadet 3 FloWise is still a two-piece like the previous Cadet model, but this one is more modern in design. 

The oversized 3-inch flush valve, coupled with siphon flushing action, ensures that whatever waste matter is present gets dealt with easily. It also has an EverClean surface coating that stops mold and bacteria from growing. 

If you want to reduce staining and blockages, keeping the toilet bowl clean is one of the best ways to stop this from happening, so the EverClean coating helps you keep your toilet in working order. 

This toilet is a single-flush model, so while it doesn’t give you the choice of a dual-flush, it still conforms to the WaterSense regulations, delivering 1.28 gallons per flush. 

Unlike the previous American Standard model featured, this one comes with the toilet seat included. You also get a comfort height seat, which caters to older people and those with mobility issues. 

The other difference with this toilet is it has a round bowl, which used to be the norm 20 years ago, but so many new models are elongated. Some people just prefer rounded toilets, although they are harder for children and men to use sitting down. 

Weight 75 pounds
Dimensions 28.25 x 15.75 x 30.75 inches
Type of flush Single
Gallons per flush 1.28
One/two-piece Two-piece
Seat included Yes
Price $$$$
Warranty Lifetime on Chinaware, 5-year on working parts, and 1-year on the seat

6.  TOTO Entrada Two-Piece Universal Height Toilet

This is the second TOTO toilet to feature. This Entrada is a two-piece, so it will require more effort to install, and it has an elongated bowl for increased universal comfort. 

The first thing you notice about this toilet is the price. It is very competitive compared to similar models. If you are in the market for a budget option, this is a great choice. 

It is universal height, which is another way of saying it is comfort height, meaning the seat is a minimum of 17 to 19 inches high, making it better for older relatives to access the toilet. 

The seat’s height puts a tick in the ADA box, and the 1.28-gallon flush meets the criteria for WaterSense accreditation. However, it only has one flush option, so no matter if it’s solid or fluid waste, you only get one choice. 

You don’t get the toilet seat either, but we might be a little too picky given that the purchase price is so great. 

Weight Not stated
Dimensions 30 x 26.65 x 15.25 inches
Type of flush Single
Gallons per flush 1.28
One/two-piece Two-piece 
Seat included No 
Price $$
Warranty 1-year limited

7.  Mecor Siphon Dual Flushing One-Piece Toilet


Mecor One-Piece Toilet Siphon Dual Flushing, Soft Closing Quick Release Seat 0.8/1.28Gpf, White (25″x13.3″x28.3″)

  • ✔【SIPHON FLUSHING DESIGN】:Super-quiet and powerful flush with no clogs, leak-proof, quick to clean and save more water

Now we get to the super-eco toilets that are so frugal with water; they have some of the lowest flush values in the industry. You get a dual-flush on this model, so you can choose the 0.8-gallon option for light use and the 1.28-gallon flush for solids. 

Because it’s a one-piece, it doesn’t leak, and the super-powerful siphon flush ensures there are no clogs. It’s also very quiet, so it won’t wake the rest of the house in the dead of night. 

The styling is reminiscent of the Woodbridge, with clean lines and unfussy curves, and because it is a one-piece, it is more compact, making it the ideal choice for a downstairs restroom. 

Thanks to the high-density, self-cleaning porcelain, keeping this toilet clean is a breeze. It has a maximum weight capacity of 400 pounds, so if you have any larger relatives at home, this toilet can cope. 

You also get a quick-release and soft-closing toilet seat included in the extremely competitive price, unlike some more expensive models. 

On the downside, the low flush setting delivers half the water levels of the American Standard, so you might find yourself cleaning the toilet more often to keep the stains at bay. 

Weight 100.3 pounds
Dimensions 25 x 28.3 x 13.3 inches
Type of flush Dual-flush
Gallons per flush 0.8/1.28
One/two-piece One-piece 
Seat included Yes 
Price $$
Warranty Not stated

8.  Swiss Madison Well Made Forever St. Tropez Toilet

Swiis madison is the nearest rival that Woodbridge has for modern styling. They adopt the same cool lines and contours for that minimalist design. Where the two differ is in the price. This Swiss Madison is almost $100 less than the Woodbridge. 

It has a fully skirted trapway making it easy to keep clean, and a soft-closing seat, so it won’t get slammed in the middle of the night. 

This toilet is easy to install, thanks to predrilled holes for the bolts, and bolt caps and the wax ring included in the price. 

If you like saving water, this Swiss Madison scores well, with a dual-flush 0.8 and 1.28-gallon option, and it has quick-release seat hinges for easy cleaning. 

This is a one-piece toilet, so it is easier to plumb in, install, and won’t leak, unlike two-piece models, where the weak point is the seal between the tank and the toilet bowl. 

If you fit this toilet yourself, it might be an idea to get someone to help you lift it because it weighs 120 pounds. One-piece toilets are typically heavier because they incorporate the water tank. 

The other downside is Swiss Madison claims this seat height meets the comfort standard, but the bowl rim is only 15.5 inches high. Once you add the seat, it sits 16.5 inches, which is 0.5 inches less than the minimum 17 inches required for ADA certification. 

Weight 120
Dimensions 26.6 x 15 x 31 inches
Type of flush Dual-flush
Gallons per flush 0.8/1.28
One/two-piece One-piece
Seat included Yes
Price $$
Warranty 1-year limited

9.  WOODBRIDGE B0933-2 Dual Flush Toilet


Woodbridge B0933-2/T-0033L T-0033 Dual Flush Elongated One Piece Toilet with Soft Closing Seat, White

  • ✅ [Luxurious Modern Design]: Clean, sleek look and compliment with different styles like modern, craftsman, traditional and etc.

This second Woodbridge model is equally stylish as the other one to feature. It is also a one-piece, meaning it should be more convenient to install because it doesn’t require the tank to be plumbed to the bowl. 

It won’t leak; it has a skirted trapway, which makes it easier to clean as well as reducing the chances of dust collecting. Plus, it comes with a pre-installed seat, mounting bolts, and a wax ring. All you need are the tools.

This dual-flush toilet uses slightly more water than the Swiss Madison, even on the low setting. It uses 1-gallon and 1.6 gallons, but at least you get the choice of how much water you get to use, unlike the American Standard models. 

This Woodbridge meets the WaterSense standards, as well as the ADAs comfort height obligations, making it the ideal toilet if you have taller, older, or mobility-restricted relatives. It’s easier to get on and off, allowing family members to retain their independence. 

The other notable thing about this toilet is the elongated bowl, making it universally more comfortable, and it is super-light, at just 53 pounds. That’s half the weight of other comparable models. 

Weight 53 pounds
Dimensions 30 x 20 x 28 inches
Type of flush Dual-flush
Gallons per flush 1.0/1.6
One/two-piece One-piece
Seat included Yes
Price $$$
Warranty 1-year limited

10. Kohler San Souci Aqua Piston Flushing Technology Toilet

When you first glance at this Kohler one-piece toilet, you think that the toilet flush tank is not large enough. It is designed to look shorter, which makes it a great choice for fitting into smaller spaces. 

It also has a concealed trapway, like the Woodbridge and Swiss Madison designs. The elongated bowl is universally more comfortable, especially for children and men who sit down to pee, and the flush lever is located on the left-hand side. 

It’s a comfort height model, so it scores well against the ADA seat height standard. It also makes it better for elderly and mobility-challenged relatives to use. It’s even a great choice for tall people. 

The flush is single action, utilizing a canister valve that is super-quiet and powerful enough to deliver the force you need in 1.28 gallons of water. That makes it WaterSense compliant, which is excellent for the planet. 

The black cloud in the sunny sky is the price. It costs twice the price of the first Woodbridge model to feature and $200 more than the American Standard. If you want a budget toilet, look elsewhere. 

Weight 94 pounds
Dimensions 30.25 x 16.38 x 27.75 inches
Type of flush Single-flush
Gallons per flush 1.28
One/two-piece One-piece
Seat included Yes
Price $$$$$
Warranty 1-year limited

What Is a Flushing Toilet?

A flushing toilet utilizes water to remove waste material inside the toilet bowl by allowing water to flow from a water tank. When you pull the lever,  a valve lifts to let the water run into the bowl. As the tank drains, the ball float drops, which then triggers the tank to refill. 

The refill valve lets water flood back into the tank, and the float valve lifts, and when it reaches a designated height, it closes off the refill valve, and the tank is full and ready for the next flush. 

Meanwhile, the waste material is lifted by the water and swirled down the bowl towards the drain. Gravity takes over, and the waste matter drops into the sewer pipe via the trap at the back that connects your toilet to the waste pipe. 

What Is WaterSense?

WaterSense is an Environment Protection Agency initiative to grade toilets on their ability to conserve water. Before 1992, US toilets used a minimum of 3 gallons per flush and sometimes more. Legislation was passed restricting the use of these toilets. 

WaterSense labeling allows the American public to see that the toilet they are buying is efficient, better for the planet, and better for their wallets in yearly water usage. 

Between the years 2007, when the first low-flow toilet was awarded the WaterSense accreditation, and 2017, according to the government there has been an estimated saving of 2.7 trillion gallons of water. 

WaterSense is a voluntary standard, but the industry has responded and actively seeks new ways to improve the efficiency of their products so that they can display the WaterSense label. 

Customers love it, the industry respects it, and the environment benefits. 

What is a Comfort Height Seat?

A comfort height toilet seat is the generic name it gets from the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). To qualify as a comfort height toilet, it must be a minimum of 17 inches high, including the seat. 

Some toilets go further and measure 19 or even 20 inches high, and they still qualify. You might also see the term “Universal height.” This is another way of saying comfort height. 

So when you see either term, you can be confident it will be suitable for your elderly relatives or those with mobility issues.

Standard toilets have seat heights that typically measure 13 to 15 inches high, although these can rise to 16 inches in some cases. Be wary of manufacturers labeling their products as comfort height when they fall short by 0.5 inches or so. 

That all-important height is 17 inches, and anything less does not qualify. 

Types of Flushing Systems and Toilets

There are many variants when it comes to toilet flush systems. Here are a few you may have heard about.

Ballcock Flush System

This is one of the most common ones. It uses a floating ball on an arm that lowers and lifts with the water level in the flush tank. As the rod moves, it activates a plunger to let water drain or fill the tank. 

The system operates in tandem with the shut-off valve, so you need to ensure the water levels are set correctly, or the ballcock won’t function properly, and neither will your flush. 

Siphon Flush

The siphonic flush system is more common in the USA compared to the ballcock method. When you press the flush button on the top of the tank, it opens a flush valve, allowing water to fill the toilet bowl. 

As the water in the bowl rises, it lifts the waste matter and then drains in one flush out, carrying the solid and liquid waste away. 

The downside with this system is the trapway can be long and narrow, leaving it vulnerable to clogging. 

Flapper Valve

This method is similar to the ballcock. When you pull the flush lever, the flapper lifts, allowing water to flow into the bowl. The flapper attaches to a chain, which connects to the flush lever. 

As the water level drops, the flapper stops floating and falls back into place, blocking the water flow. The refill valve takes over and fills the tank with water for the next flush. 

Gravity Flush

Gravity is the most commonly used force to make your toilet flush. It works by downward water pressure dropping into your toilet bowl and  lifting your waste material before carrying it away down the drain. 

This is a simple system requiring minimal maintenance, and when repairs are needed, they are cheap and easy to fix. 

Dual Cyclone Flush

TOTO created the first dual cyclone flushing system. It works by having two nozzles that channel the water flow, aided by a propulsion system. The net result is a powerful and directed water jet that is more efficient and powerful.

The downside is the cost if it needs repairing. These systems are less common and so more costly. 

Dual-Flush

Dual-flush systems are less common in the US, but they are making headway. You get the choice of a higher water setting for solid waste and a lower flow setting for liquid waste. These systems are great for conserving water because they give you a choice. 

Typically, they flush between 0.8 and 1.0 gallons on the lower sitting and 1.28 to 1.6 gallons on the higher flush. 

Pros and Cons of a Flushing Toilet

There are many pros and only a couple of cons we can think of when it comes to flushing toilets. Let’s start with the pros. 

Pros

  • Removes waste material efficiently.
  • No smells in the toilet.
  • It keeps the toilet clean.
  • Reduces mold and bacteria growth.
  • Traps harmful bacteria inside the toilet.
  • Simple and efficient to use. 

Cons

  • Uses water which is a precious resource. 
  • Typically noisy when flushed.

Considerations for Buying a Flushing Toilet

So, what are the main things to look for when buying a new flushing toilet? Here’s our take on what to keep in mind.

Type of Flush

Whichever type of flush you choose, there is plenty of variety. You can get dual, single, cyclone, tornado, siphonic, ballcock, flapper, and so on. The list is long. If you want something easy to use and repair, try the flapper or ballcock route. 

More advanced systems, like the cyclonic, are less common and so more expensive to repair. 

Seat Height

We’ve discussed what constitutes a comfort height seat, so all you need to do is decide if that is important to you and your family. If you have elderly relatives, tall people, or those with mobility issues in your home, consider the seat’s height. 

Comfort or universal height seats are generally 17 to 19 inches high, making them easier to access for these groups of people. A standard toilet typically has a seat height of 13 to 15 inches, making them much lower and harder to get off and on. 

Water Usage

If you care about how much water you use, look for the WaterSense label. WaterSense certifies that your toilet is efficient and conserves water. 

Compared to toilets of old, the new breed uses almost 50 percent less water, saving thousands of gallons a year. That’s better for the planet and your wallet. 

Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a high and a low setting depending on whether you are removing solids or liquids. 

Type of Bowl

Most modern toilets have elongated bowls. The theory is they are more universally comfortable. They certainly help men who sit to pee, reducing splashes and mess, and children love them too because they can actually fit on the seat without the fear of falling.

The alternative is a rounded bowl, which is better for larger people. 

One-Piece Vs. Two-Piece

The toilets don’t function any differently, but one is easier to install than the other. Most one-piece toilets are modern and sleek in style, suiting a particular taste and bathroom design. They come as one unit, so don’t leak or need additional plumbing

However, one-piece toilets can be heavy as the tank is already attached, which adds considerable weight. 

Two-piece toilets are more complex to install because you need to join the tank to the bowl, requiring some plumbing skills. It also means they could leak at a later stage if seals are compromised. 

They are lighter because they come in two pieces, making them easier for one person to install. 

Power Flushing Toilet vs. Slow Flushing Toilet

Power flushing toilets have assisted pressure, which helps to increase the speed of the water flow, and is ideal for clearing stubborn waste material. A power flush is the type you might have for a larger family, where the toilet gets a lot of use. 

If you are concerned about clogging, a power flush solves that problem. The advantage of a power flush is it uses less water, but you get more potency to clean the toilet bowl. The disadvantage is the cost. Power flush toilets are more expensive to buy and repair.

Slow flushing toilets are typically eco-friendly and only use a fraction of the water compared to most toilets. They can use as little as 0.8 gallons with each flush. 

The advantage of a slow flushing toilet is they are WaterSense certified, and they are quiet. These toilets are also easy to repair and cost a fraction of the price compared to some power flush models. 

The disadvantage is you may need to flush a couple of times to remove stubborn solid matter, which uses more water and negates the point of an eco-friendly toilet. 

It’s All About The Flush

Flushing toilets are clean, hygienic, efficient, and above all, popular. There are alternatives like composting toilets, but flushing toilets are the norm in almost every home across the country. 

They have come a long way since their invention in the early 20th century, and they use a fraction of the water compared to older models. Until someone invents a better system of dealing with our waste, we will have to live with flushing toilets. 

How To Stop A Running Toilet (Fixes & Causes)

If your toilet doesn’t stop running when you flush, you have a problem. You could opt for the easy route and call in a professional, but that would mean spending big bucks. There are cheaper ways to fix the problem. All you have to do is roll up your sleeves and get stuck in. 

But where do you start? Let’s take a look at how to stop a running toilet and the things that might cause the issue in the first place.

How Are Toilets Supposed to Work?

Toilets are pretty simple, really. When you pull the flush handle, a chain lifts a valve called a flapper to let water flow into your toilet bowl. As the bowl fills, gravity takes over and drains the water down a pipe called an S-bend. 

The water flows into the sewer carrying the waste material with it. Inside the water tank are a float valve and a refill tube. When the water in the tank drains into the bowl, the refill valve starts to draw water back into the tank. 

As it fills, the float valve rises, and when it reaches optimum levels, the refill valve stops. 

Reasons Your Toilet Won’t Stop Running

There are many reasons why your toilet won’t stop running, and the good news is most of them are simple fixes, requiring limited plumbing skills. Let’s take a look at the usual suspects. 

Faulty Refilling Tubes

The refill valve does what it says on the tin; it refills your toilet tank, ready for the next time you flush it. It suffers wear and tear with repeated use, and eventually, it fails. 

One of the most significant malfunctions is the valve becomes misaligned, causing the water to keep flowing into the tank. This excess water needs to run somewhere, and it makes its way into your toilet bowl. 

It could also be a broken component inside the valve. The valves are made of plastic, so they are prone to becoming brittle as they chalk up with sediment. 

Refill tubes are easy to replace. They screw into the base of the tank and connect directly with the water supply pipe. They can be bought as a single replacement part or as a complete toilet tank kit.

Faulty or Wrongly Placed Float Ball

The ball float prevents backflow and regulates the water levels within your flush tank. If the float is faulty, it could be a reason why the toilet won’t stop running. Check the float itself is not split. 

Sometimes, when floats age, they split and let in water. If that happens, the float no longer functions, which causes the water to keep flowing. The simple solution is to buy a new float. They are readily available in hardware stores and easy to replace. 

The other issue could be the arm that holds the float needs adjusting. Use a screwdriver to adjust the height by turning the screw clockwise or counterclockwise to lift it up or down. 

Sometimes the arm gets bent. To solve this, a bit of brute force helps to bend the arm back into position. 

Flush Valve Chain Is Too Short or Long

The flush valve chain attaches from the flush arm to the flapper at the base of the tank. When the chain is too short, the flapper stays open, allowing water to run into the toilet bowl continuously.

When the chain is too long, the flush doesn’t work because when you pull the lever, the flapper doesn’t lift to let the water escape.

Bad Flush Valve

The flush valve is also known as the flapper. Other than the chain being too short or long, which affects how well they operate, the valve itself can develop problems. 

The flapper is made from dense rubber, which ages over time and becomes brittle. It causes the seal to weaken between the valve and the gasket. 

One of the biggest signs your flapper is bad is the continuous flow of water into the toilet bowl. Another sign is ghost flushing, where the toilet appears to flush itself. This is due to water levels in the tank activating the refill valve and the toilet flushes. 

Like all the other issues discussed so far, replacing a flapper is a relatively simple task and one that requires minimum plumbing know-how. 

Weak Gasket

The gasket is made of rubber, just like the flapper. It sits at the base of the water tank, making a secure seal with the flapper valve. The same issues that beset the flapper can cause the gasket to fail. 

They become brittle, develop splits and cracks, and eventually, fail completely, causing your toilet to run continuously. 

Replacing a toilet gasket is cheap and easy to do. When you swap the flapper or perform any maintenance work that involves draining the flush tank, give everything a once over to make sure that there aren’t further problems down the line. 

This includes inspecting the state of the gasket. It’s such a simple component and yet is vital to the effective performance of your toilet. 

How to Stop a Running Toilet: 6 Fixes

So, we’ve looked at the causes of why your toilet keeps running, but what are the solutions? Let’s find out. 

Tools & Materials Needed

Before you get stuck in, have the right tools to hand. Here’s what you will need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Plumber’s putty
  • Dry towel
  • Rubber gloves
  • Replacement parts like new filler valve, flapper and gasket

1. Take a closer look at the fill tube

The first step is to drain the water tank. You can’t inspect the refill tube if there is still water inside the tank. Isolate the water supply by turning the valve as far as it will go. You can find the valve behind the toilet to the left. 

If no isolation valve is present, you might need to turn  the water off at the mains. 

Now the water is switched off, flush the toilet and allow the tank to drain. Check the seals at the base of the filler tube to see that nothing is misaligned and leaking. Filler tubes are sealed units and come as one complete component. 

So, while you inspect it for faults, if you suspect it is the culprit, buy a new one and replace it. It is a simple enough task because the tube screws into the tank’s base and connects directly with the water pipe. 

Put on your rubber gloves for extra grip, and grab the adjustable wrench. Remove the water pipe that connects to the filler tube and then unscrew the tube from the tank. Put the new one in place, and while holding the filler tube steady, reconnect the pipework. 

Don’t let the filler tube spin as you tighten the connecting nut of the water valve, and to get the best watertight seal, apply a generous coating of plumber’s putty to the threads before you tighten. 

2. Set the fill height by examining the float

Your water level should be 1 or 2 inches below the overflow and refill tubes. Some toilet tanks have an indented marker that tells you the optimum levels. 

You can perform this adjustment with the water tank full or empty. But if you suspect the ball is split, it might be better to do it in dry conditions. 

Look at where the ball valve sits when the tank is full. To raise it up or down, grab the screwdriver and turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise. When you are satisfied that the water level matches the marker on the tank, replace the tank lid. 

If the float is split, replace it because it will fail to operate, and as the tank fills with water, it will no longer float, causing your toilet to run continuously. 

3. Set the handle and chain of the toilet

This is another repair you can perform with the tank full. Lift the tank lid and place it to one side. Inspect the chain that connects the flush arm to the flapper at the base of the tank. If it is too slack, it affects the flush mechanism. Too tight, and the flapper won’t close. 

Set the flush handle to its normal non-flushing position. Now unclip the chain from the arm inside the tank and remove the necessary amount of links from the chain. The chain is designed with small openings that allow for easy link removal. 

Hold the chain up, so it is straight and measure the length against the height of the flush arm. The chain should be taught but with enough slack that it still moves freely. 

Grab a paperclip, straighten it out and hook it through the last link in the chain, feeding the other end through the hole in the flush arm. Now twist the paperclip shut, ensuring it is secure. 

Test the flush and see how the flapper operates. Wait while the tank refills and listen for running water. If the flapper closes and creates a seal. You have succeeded. 

4. Repair the bent lift arm

Don your rubber gloves and grip the lift arm with both hands, applying gentle but firm pressure, twist the arm, so it looks straight. 

It should be possible to achieve this with a bit of brute force; however, if it is more stubborn, you may need to remove the arm and apply a little more pressure. 

When you are happy the arm is straight, flush the toilet and see if the float sits at the correct level. If not, keep making adjustments until you are satisfied. Now replace the lid.

5. Replace the flapper

As before, with the water isolated, flush the toilet and let the water drain away. Use the dry towel to mop up any remaining puddles of water from the base of the tank. 

Unclip the chain from the flapper and remove the pegs that attach to the overflow valve. Now disconnect the chain and slide the edges away from the pegs. Lift the flapper free and replace it with the new one. 

Luckily, most flappers are universal, but if you want the best fit, try and get like for like. Assuming your new flapper is the same as the old one, sit it into the drain hole and examine how it fits. 

Check for gaps, bits of sediment that might break the seal. If you are satisfied, reconnect the flapper to the overflow valve with the pegs and reattach the chain. Switch the water back on and allow the tank to fill. A test flush will tell you if the replacement works. 

6. Adjust the flush handle

The flush handle works loose over time, and this affects the level of the lever. It causes the chain attached to the flapper to go slack. The first thing is to check how the lever sits against the toilet. Can you move the handle? Is it wobbly? 

Reach inside and feel for the locking nut that secures the handle to the tank. If it is loose, tighten it by hand and check the handle is secure and doesn’t move. 

Grab the adjustable wrench and gently tighten the nut, making sure not to overtighten in case you crack the ceramic tank. Check that the flush handle is set at the correct position and the chain is taught but not overstretched. 

Pull the flush handle and let the toilet run through a flush cycle. If the tank refills and the handle returns to the correct position, you have succeeded. 

Save Some Cash and Do It Yourself

Why bother calling in a professional when all these issues are fixable with a little know-how and our easy-to-follow guide. You can purchase most of the spares from hardware and DIY stores. 

They are relatively cheap and easy to replace. You just need to set aside the time to perform the repairs, but you will feel the satisfaction of doing it yourself and saving money. 

10 Best Swing Chairs for Your Patios or Garden

Many people enjoy the soothing relaxation of sitting in a swing chair. Hanging chairs, also called hammock chairs, give you the perfect place to escape from the world in comfort. 

All swing chairs have one common trend – they do not have legs, and they suspend in the air to swing. In this review guide, we’ll look at the ten best swing chairs. Then we provide an in-depth buyer’s guide and answer some frequently asked questions. 

The Best Swing Chairs, Hanging Chairs, & Hammock Chairs

1. Y-STOP Hanging Chair Hammock Rope String

Y- STOP Hammock Chair Hanging Rope Swing, Max 320 Lbs, 2 Seat Cushions Included, Hanging Chair with Pocket, Quality Cotton Weave, for Indoor and Outdoor, Beige

  • The cotton rope hammock chair will not lose the cotton thread, it has the comfort of a soft sponge, you can sit or lie down, anytime, anywhere can easily move, allowing you to fully enjoy the comfort and relax

The Y-Stop hanging chair features thick cotton rope supports that can hold a maximum of 320 pounds, available in beige, black, or light gray. The thickly cushioned pillow is 18”x18,” and the weight for the entire swing is only three pounds so that you can transport it anywhere you like, indoors or outside.

This cloth hanging chair allows you to sit or lay back for maximum comfort while the polyester and cotton blend won’t tear or hold foul odors. A 40” long, 50” high, thick wood bar keeps the swing in balance, while a handy side pocket stores books, phones, tablets, and more within close reach.

2. Begum Hammock Chair Hanging Swing

Sale

Bengum Hammock Chair Hanging Swing | Indoor and Outdoor Use | Large Swinging Seat Chair for Patio, Bedroom, or Tree | 2-Tone Grey Durable Hammock + 2 Cushions + Side Pocket + Rope + Carrying Bag + S

  • SIT BACK & LOUNGE COMFORTABLY – Enjoy exceptional relaxation while reading your favorite book, relaxing on the porch, or get lazy gazing at the star-studded night sky with the XL cushions included with your purchase. With a widened bottom cushion, Begum is now offering lounging comfort like nothing you’ve experienced before.

The Begum hanging swing has everything you’d need to sit or lay comfortably, including two oversized cushions (17”x17” top and 17”x24” – bottom), and a 10×10” stitched size pocket large enough to hold books, cell phones, or large tablets.

This black polyester/cotton blend swing is breathable, with a 300-pound weight limit, and secured with a reinforced hanging loop and a 39” wood spreader bar.

3. RedSwing Hanging Hammock Chair Macrame Swing Chair

RedSwing Hanging Hammock Chair, Macrame Swing Chair with Cushion and Hardware Kits, Cotton Rope Hammock Swing Chair for Indoor Bedrooms and Outdoor Use

  • Safe & Firm: The frame made of iron. The thick cotton canvas ropes are very safe and suitable for both adults and children

The RedSwing Hanging swing chair is 47.24” high and 31.49” wide with a 23.62” sitting space, topped with a lightweight, thin cushion and a weight capacity of 330 pounds. Two 19.6” straps with metal rings allow for securing indoors or outside in a quick setup.

Thick cotton canvas ropes cover the sturdy iron frame for extra support. While the 100% cotton canvas adds durability and style when combined with a macrame net design, with fringe tassels completing the look. 

4. NICESOUL Patio Wicker Swing Hammock Egg Chair

Indoor Outdoor Patio Wicker Hanging Chair Swing Hammock Egg Chairs UV Resistant Cushions with Aluminum Frame 350lbs Capaticy for Patio Bedroom Balcony (Grey)

  • 【STURDY AND COMFORTABLE】 Seat and frame of egg chair is constructed of polyethylene rattan resin wicker wrapped around a aluminum frame for weather-resistant protection, strength and durability; Back features nylon rope; Seat cushion and headrest pillow feature a polyester material and polyester fiberfill cores .

The NiceSoul wicker egg swing allows you to enjoy a swing chair anywhere without needing a sturdy frame to secure it due to the included powder-coated aluminum base. This swing stands 78” tall from top to bottom, with 38” wide and long foot pedestals. The seat itself is 29.2” wide and 42.5” tall, with a weight capacity of 350 pounds.

Polyethylene rattan resin wicker covers a durable aluminum frame, allowing for weather resistance and strength. This chair has a nylon rope backrest, waterproof, anti-UV polyester headrest, and 5” thick seat cushion, with removable covers for easy cleaning. The best feature is that you can fold the entire frame for easy transporting and setting up anywhere, indoors or out.

5. Island Gale Luxury 2 Person Wicker Swing Chair

The Island Gale Luxury swing chair is the ideal solution for couples who want a seat they can share. With 12 color choices and multiple sizes, this swing has a powder coat steel frame covered in commercial-grade PE rattan wicker.

This swing sits on a sturdy round base, so there’s no need to hunt down a structure to secure the chains. With an adjustable spring kit, thick cushions on the bottom, sides, and backrest, and enough room to maneuver, this swing is perfect for two people with a maximum combined weight of 585 pounds.

6. Christopher Knight Home Wicker Teardrop Hanging Chair

Christopher Knight Home 312592 Cayuse Indoor/Outdoor Wicker Tear Drop Hanging Chair (Stand Not Included), Multi-Brown and Tan

  • PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION REQUIRED: Professional installation is required for this swing chair. This is not intended for use by children 12 years of age or younger. Please note that this product does not include a hanging stand or mounting hardware.

The Christopher Knight Home Cayuse teardrop hanging chair gives you a unique character piece as well as a comfy spot to sit. This teardrop swing has a modern intricate weather resistance PE rattan wicker weave. 

The cushions are non-porous and weather-resistance but not waterproof. This distinction means it won’t hurt if water splashes on top, but they are not submergible. This swing has enough room for one person with dimensions of 38” W x 48” H x 23.5” D. You will need to buy hanging hardware to install this swing. 

7. OUTREE Kids Pod Swing Seat

OUTREE Kids Pod Swing Seat 100% Cotton Child Hammock Chair for Indoor and Outdoor use (Blue)

  • 【Fun & Sensory】- OUTREE Kids Pod Swing Seat will give children a peaceful and warm place to play, and provide kids a sense of safety while at the same time provide soothing sensations that can help them regulate sensory and relax,

The Outree swing seat is the ideal solution for a fun-looking hanging swing for children. Available in blue, pink, and blue, or blue and green, these swings are 100% cotton, adding comfort and breathability. 

Reinforced nylon edges and double stitching increases safety while the PVC air cushion prevents mold growth and adds extra comfort. These swings are easy to take down and set up in minutes, with a max weight capacity of 100 pounds, allowing for versatile and extended use for younger children. 

8. Sonybecca LED Hanging Chair

Sale

Sonyabecca LED Hanging Chair Light Up Macrame Hammock Chair with 39FT LED Light for Indoor/Outdoor Home Patio Deck Yard Garden Reading Leisure Lounging Large Size(65x85cm)(Not Included Stand)

  • Light Up Hammocks Macrame Chairs: Made of 100% handmade cotton, the rope and swing design feature macrame net chair pattern with fringe tassels. 265 pounds weight capacity with dimension of about 33.5 “L X 25.6” W X 53 “H (Height of chair, without rope is 17.9”), very safe and suitable for both adults and children.

The Sonybecca LED hanging chair adds a touch of whimsy to your indoor or outdoor space with 39 feet of white LED lighting (120 LED bulbs) running up the four ropes and around the top half of the egg swing. All the lights need to work is three AA batteries, not included.

This macrame net chair, with tassels, holds 265 pounds with dimensions of 53” H x 25.6” W x 33.5” L, allowing for adult or child use. However, this item does not come with cushions, a stand, or hanging accessories. 

9. VIVOHOME Hanging Hammock Chair with LED Lights

Sale

VIVOHOME Hanging Hammock Chair with 39 Feet Long LED Lights for Indoor Outdoor, 330 lbs Capacity, Note: Stand Not Included

  • ELEGANT AND STYLISH DÉCOR – This hammock chair is designed with a net and a fringe pattern; Blended in a bohemian style, it will perfect shows the retro and stylish style, and make it become an elegant décor in your home

The Vivohome hanging chair with LED lights also gives you a cozy place to read due to 39 feet of white lights that you can hang anywhere, including away from the seat. These lights have two modes – flash or light. 

This macrame net seat adds elegance and boho style to any space, indoors or out. This 100% cotton swing has a weight capacity of 330 pounds and dimensions of 53.1” H, with four 44” long ropes and an 18.1H seat that’s 31.4” wide with a 23.6” W sitting space. It’s compatible with an 80” to 84” stand (not included). 

10. EverKing Hanging Rope Hammock Chair Porch Swing Seat

Sale

EverKing Hanging Rope Hammock Chair Porch Swing Seat, Large Hammock Net Chair Swing, Cotton Rope Porch Chair for Indoor, Outdoor, Garden, Patio, Porch, Yard – 2 Seat Cushions Included (White)

  • HANGING ROPE HAMMOCK SWING – Find comfort with a stylish hammock swing – Hangs anywhere and easily relocates – Great addition to Balconies, Decks, Backyards and more

And finally, the EverKing hanging rope swing is a budget-friendly comfy swing for sitting or reclining, available in seven fun colors. Enjoy being wrapped by the high cotton/polyester blend sides and plush bottom and back cushions. 

This seat holds up to 265 pounds in weight, with a size of 39” x 51” with 19.7” x 19.7” cushions. The sturdy solid wood bar is 39” x 51” with a 1.5” diameter to provide maximum stability. Fold it up and carry it anywhere you go using the included storage bag that’s less than 40” long.

What Is a Swing Chair?

Swing chairs, sometimes referred to as hanging chairs, are free-hanging chairs, meaning they do not have legs or a base that keeps them secure on the ground.

Swing chairs secure by ropes that connect to a mounting bracket. Many people suspend swing chairs from the ceiling using hooks that attach to a beam or stud. But other models allow for easier use by connecting to trees, freestanding platforms, or trees.

Where Can I Put an Outdoor or Indoor Swing Chair?

Swing chairs have the significant advantage of being suitable for many locations. With various styles, you’re sure to find an option that will blend in with the surroundings to create a peaceful personal retreat. 

Garden

Enjoying a comfy seat to enjoy the fruits of your labor after a long session of gardening is food for the soul. Whether you’re listening to the music of nature, reading a book, or enjoying the sight, a swing chair can be the perfect solution. 

You have multiple options. You can choose a freestanding swing that secures a metal base, which allows you to move it around with ease. Or you can choose one that attaches to a tree for a permanent fixture. Or you could purchase a small, portable swing chair that you can set up and take down quickly and carry anywhere you go. 

A few things to remember when shopping for a swing chair for your garden are that you’ll want a durable material like wood, polyethylene, or synthetic rattan if you are leaving the swing in place. 

And unless the manufacturer states explicitly that cushions or pillows are waterPROOF, it’s a good idea to bring them inside or cover the seat with a waterproof tarp when not in use.  

Pool

For swing chairs to use around the pool, you’ll need to think strategically. There most likely won’t be a sturdy structure to secure a ceiling-mounted swing and probably not any trees. The best choice for this location is a swing that goes on a stand. 

You’ll also want to consider materials. Since people will most likely be sitting in these chairs while wet, you’ll need something to handle moisture. Wood, rattan, and PE structures can take the abuses of a poolside setting. 

Quilted chairs are also great for these purposes, as are chairs made of quick-drying fabric like polyester. You wouldn’t want to use cotton, as it dries slowly and can mildew if drying takes too long. 

Patio / Porch

Adding a swing chair to your patio or porch is a great way to have a personal sitting space that offers a gentle rocking motion.

Wicker is an excellent material for swing chairs placed on porches or covered patios. If you’re worried about water damage, consider synthetic rattan wicker instead. 

Ceiling-mounted seats work great for covered porches, given that there’s enough room for the swing to be able to move. You can also use freestanding egg chairs for these locations. Some options even have more expansive seating so you can share with a friend or loved one. 

Bedroom

Placing a swinging chair in your bedroom is a fun way to give your space some character while providing you with a peaceful retreat.

Since your chair will be indoors, there are no limits to the type of materials you choose. Our favorites are swing chairs that suspend from the ceiling, decorated with LED lights for a cozy reading space. 

Consider making your space more comfortable by adding throw pillows or a plush blanket in your room’s color palette. Swinging chairs that let you recline or sit upright are the perfect bedroom accessory. 

Others

There are plenty of places you can use a swing chair, other than what we’ve listed. For instance, if you purchase a portable swing chair, you can take it along to set up at the park, on the banks while you’re enjoying a day of fishing, or while you’re enjoying a day at the beach.

A portable swing chair is a perfect companion for busy parents for long days spent on the sidelines at your kids’ extracurricular activities. Be the envy of all the fans for more than your kid’s sports prowess. 

Are you heading to an outdoor concert or a movie night? Don’t forget your cozy egg chair for the best seats in the house. You can even take them along on camping trips. Recline back and take a nap while everyone else sets up camp. 

Choosing a Swing Chair (Buyer’s Guide)

There are multiple criteria to consider when debating between different swing chair models. As you start to browse through the various offerings, you’ll quickly realize there are many styles and designs. 

How and where you’ll use your chair will affect what option is right for you. Outdoor chairs will need different features than a chair placed in your bedroom or living room. In addition, you’ll want to use these factors to narrow down your final selection. 

Size

In the case of swing chairs, size matters. Because these chairs move, you’ll need to ensure enough clearance on all sides, so the swing doesn’t hit anything. If you’ll be placing your swing indoors or on a porch, measure the space to know what’s available.

When comparing different models, pay attention to each option’s height, width, and seating area diameter. If you’re considering a swing that’s on a stand, you’ll want to know how much extra space it will take up. If you are securing your swing from the ceiling, you’ll want to have enough material to keep your swing low enough to get into and out of comfortably. 

You’ll also need to know the seat’s weight capacity. This factor is crucial for ceiling-mounted swing chairs and stands base. Exceeding the recommended limit can result in seat failure. 

Materials

Another factor to weigh is the swing’s materials. This factor is crucial for swings that you’ll use outdoors, particularly if you plan to use them as a permanent fixture. Material options include:

  • Rope – this style provides a romantic flare and is best for covered porches, patios, or indoor use. The rope does not fare well once wet, so it’s not ideal for permanent outdoor use. Polyester ropes are more weather resistant than cotton ropes.
  • Rattan – this material can be synthetic or natural. Natural is great for indoor use; synthetic is more weather resistant. 

How To Use a Swing Chair

Swing chairs are versatile items that you can use anywhere. Depending on the model you choose, you can use swing chairs for a cozy spot to read in your living room or bedroom, enjoy the sound of rain while sitting under a covered porch, or soak up some rays while reclining from a chair swinging from a tree.

Many models require some assembly, and with hanging models, you’ll have to mount them to your ceiling, a sturdy post, a tree, a metal stand, or any other structure that can handle the weight. 

How you’ll secure your swing varies by model, as well. Some models have metal rings that connect to a bar. Others have rings that you attach to mounted screwed into a base. And then some models have straps, which are great for temporary settings, like a day at the park. 

Best Swing Chair FAQ

Here are the answers to some frequently asked questions customers have before deciding to purchase a swing chair. 

Are Swing, Hanging, & Hammock Chairs Comfortable?

Most of these chairs have a unique egg shape, which can be uncomfortable to some people. The best way to ensure the chair you choose is comfortable is to pick one that’s the appropriate size (think of your measurements in different positions). Adding cushions and pillows can increase your comfort. 

Are Swing Chairs and Hanging Chairs the Same?

Swing chairs and hanging chairs are generally the same things. The names are interchangeable to refer to a chair without legs suspended above the ground using some mechanism. These chairs also can swing or rock. 

Is a Hammock Chair the Same as a Swing Chair?

The name hammock chair is often used to refer to a swing chair, although the two terms have different meanings. While a swing chair usually has enough room for one person to sit upright, a hammock chair provides ample space for you to recline back or sit upright. 

Do I Need a Stand for a Swing or Hammock Chair?

Stands are a great way to enjoy a hanging swing or hammock chair when you don’t have the option to mount your swing to the ceiling. Some models require a stand, but many options allow you to choose how you want to mount your swing, including using a stand or not. 

Does a Swing Chair Need a Cover?

If your swing chair is outdoors permanently, you may want to consider investing in a cover that will protect your swing from rain, snow, harmful UV rays, pests, and debris. A cover can extend your product’s lifespan and ensures it stays in good condition. It also eliminates the need to bring the cushions indoors. But if your chair is of good quality, built for outdoor use, a cover is optional, not necessary. 

Conclusion

Swing chairs, aka hammock or hanging chairs, are the perfect solution for people who love swinging motion. You can place these chairs indoors or outside using multiple techniques. The teardrop egg shape provides a whimsical, attractive aesthetic that will instantly update any setting. You’ll enjoy your spot so much that you may never want to get out. Try any of our ten recommendations for the best swing chairs to have your slice of paradise.

12 Types of Willow Trees (Custom Graphics)

When you hear the name Willow tree, the first image popping into most people’s minds is the infamous weeping willow tree. However, there are over 400 species that classify as Willows!

We’ve put together a list of some of the most common types of willow trees. We also explain more about the Willow species Salix, including the different sizes and identifying traits. Regardless of size, most willow tree species prefer moist soils, doing exceptionally well when planted near a source of constant water. 

Keep reading to learn everything you’d want to know about willow trees, including twelve of the most common types of willow trees. 

What Are The Different Types of Willow Trees, Shrubs, & Bushes?

To list every species of the Willow tree and its unique features would take a ton of time to write and even longer read. For simplicity’s sake and to save you time, we’ve found twelve various types of willow trees, shrubs, and bushes commonly used for landscaping. 

1. Weeping Willow

  • Sunlight: full sun
  • Hardiness zones: 6-8
  • Height: 30 to 50 feet height and spread at maturity

Weeping Willow – aka Salix Babylonica – is the most traditional Willow and the easiest to identify by appearance. A signature identifying feature of Weeping Willows are the long, flexible branches that droop down to almost touching the ground.

Although native to China, you’ll see these classic trees growing worldwide, including throughout the US. They’re often planted around ponds and lakes, golf courses, and other larger landscapes. This species has a lifespan of 30 years, so they aren’t as long-lived as other Willow species.

2. Dappled Willow Tree

  • Sunlight: part shade to full sun
  • Hardiness zones: 4-9
  • Height: 8 to 10 feet tall and wide

The Dappled Willow tree – Salix Integra’ Hakuro-Nishiki, Nishiki willow, Albomaculata, tricolor willow, variegated willow, Japanese variegated willow, and Japanese dappled willow – is more of a flowering shrub than a tree with variegated pink, white, and green leaves. In winter, the branches turn red. 

This shrub works excellent for rain gardens or shrub borders due to the low growth of multiple stems. Although native to northeastern China, Japan, Russia, and Korea, many people throughout North America plant these trees with success.

3. Dwarf Willow Tree

  • Sunlight: Partial shade to full sun
  • Hardiness zones: 4 – 9
  • Height: up to five foot tall; 4 to 6 foot wide

The Dwarf willow tree – Pendula Waterfall; dwarf weeping willow; Kilmarnock – is a miniature version of a weeping willow, hardy enough to grow in any soil type. Similar to the weeping, the dwarf willow features weeping branches and slightly twisted bright green leaves.

This small shrub is perfect for decorating balconies, patios, courtyards, or small gardens where a full-size willow isn’t possible. 

4. White Willow

  • Sunlight: partial to full sun
  • Hardiness zones: 3-8
  • Height: 50 to 75 ft tall; up to 35 feet in width

White Willow trees – Salix alba ‘Tristis’ – are a golden willow with thin yellow drooping branches and a stout trunk that’s often confused with Chrysocoma – another golden willow. 

Their name comes from the leaves’ color changing from bright green to a golden yellow, shedding in fall and leaving behind cascading yellow twigs. 

5. Goat Willow

  • Hardiness: 4 to 9
  • Sunlight exposure: partial shade to full sun
  • Size: 20-50 feet height; 13 to 25 feet wide

The Goat Willow – Salix Caprea, Pussy Willow, Pink Pussy Willow, or Kilmamock Willow – hails from Britain. This luxurious deciduous tree forms multiple low branches, which resemble small trunks. 

These woody string branches spread wide and turn a warm grayish brown with cardboard textured bark. Many people choose this willow species for hedges, ground covers, and privacy barriers.

6. Peach-Leaf Willow

  • Hardiness: 3 to 5
  • Sunlight exposure: partial shade to full sun
  • Size: 30 to 40 feet height; up to 40 feet wide 

The Peach-Leaf Willow – Salix amygdaloides, Wright willow, or almond willow – is a short-lived, fast-growing willow tree with yellow branches and green leaves with silvery bottoms that resemble a Peachtree.

Many landscapers plant this tree for erosion control and to fill empty areas. When growing in nature, you see this species growing next to cottonwood trees throughout southern Canada and the US.

7. Purple Osier Willow

  • Hardiness: 4 to 9
  • Sunlight exposure: full sun
  • Size: 8 to 15 feet tall; 10-15 feet wide

The Purple Osier is another low-growing Willow shrub with purple branches and green-blue leaves (as juveniles). Many people use these plants for controlling erosion around lakes and streams or planted as a privacy hedge.

The stems and flowers can work for making crafts or as a medication for treating pain due to salicin in the bark. Other names include Alaska blue willow, blue Arctic willow, basket willow, or purple willow. This shrub grew native in Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia and planted throughout North America.

8. Coyote Willow

  • Hardiness: 2 to 9
  • Sunlight exposure: partial shade to full sun
  • Size: 15-20 feet in height and width

Coyote Willow – Salix exigua, gray willow, dusky willow, or Narrowleaf willow – is a shrubby tree used for building materials and flexible poles and rustic furniture due to the appearance of the furrowed gray bark. 

This bush grows naturally through North America, although it’s labeled as endangered or threatened. Many people also use this plant for landscaping due to its drought and flood tolerance. 

9. Scouler’s Willow

  • Hardiness: 3 to 9
  • Sunlight exposure: partial shade to full sun
  • Size: 20 to 50 feet in height and 6.5 to 50 feet in width

Scouler’s Willow – Salix scouleriana, black willow, fire willow, or western pussy willow – is another multi-stem tree with higher tolerances for low water than other Willows. The name came from John Scouler, a naturalist from Scotland who discovered the species.

Many use this willow for hedges or controlling erosion, although you have to use caution when planting, as this species is invasive. The Scouler’s Willow is native to the Western US, ranging from the northern mountainous states to Alaska. 

10. Crack Willow

  • Hardiness: 4 to 7
  • Sunlight exposure: full sun
  • Size: 33-66 feet height; up to 50 feet spread

Crack willow – Salix Fragilis, brittle willow – is a fast-growing ornamental willow with a spherical crown of fine-textured, flexible yellow-brown twigs.

These trees have dark brown bark that forms deep fissures with maturity. The name comes from the tremendously loud noise the branches make when they break.

 11. Arctic Willow

  • Hardiness: 1 to 6b
  • Sunlight exposure: full sun
  • Size: 2″ to 5″ tall

The Arctic Willow – Salix arctica or rock willow – is a small shrub that’s favorable to rocky, cold tundras and heavy snow-covered grounds. This species holds the world record for growing in the northernmost locations in the world where most plants can’t thrive.

These shrubs bloom with reddish-purple catkins in spring, resembling tiny painted hare tails. You can use these for rock gardens, as a carpet plant, or along gravel paths. When planted, the rock willow will grow in patches that won’t completely cover the ground. 

12. Bebb Willow

  • Hardiness: 2 to 4
  • Sunlight exposure: Shade to full sun
  • Size: 10-30 feet height; 10-15 feet width

The Bebb Willow – Salix bebbiana, long-beaked willow, gray will, beaked willow, or diamond willow – is a small tree or shrub with multiple stems. This type of willow grows along with wet locations such as bogs, streams, and lakes. 

This species grows naturally in wetlands throughout the northern half of North America. While the wood is excellent for carving, there are few uses for this shrub in landscaping due to its short longevity and high susceptibility to disease and pests. 

Where Are the Best Places to Grow Willow Trees?

Willow trees grow well in locations with full sun and moist soil, although some varieties can handle dry soil. Many types of willow trees are planted to control soil erosion. However, these burrowing root systems can become invasive or cause issues if planted in the wrong location.

Know what’s beneath the ground before you plant your trees. If there’s anything underground, you’ll want to avoid planting your tree in that spot. Common things to avoid are septic tanks, water lines, sewer lines, sprinkles, and near foundations of buildings. 

Most willow trees do well when planted near a significant water source, such as ponds, lakes, rivers, and creeks. 

Can I Grow Willow Trees in my Garden?

Whether you choose to grow a willow tree in your garden will depend on the amount of available space. Willow trees vary in size from small varieties that work as shrubs to giant trees that can reach the top of your house.

You’ll need to consider how tall the willow you plan to plant will be and how wide it will grow. And it’s also crucial to ensure there’s enough room between the tree and the other plants, as willow roots can smother other plants. 

Should I Grow Willow Trees in my Landscape?

Willow trees are an incredible beauty to add to large open landscapes with plenty of bare lands. If you have a body of water on your property, planting a sizable Weeping willow will give you an almost-ethereal feel. 

But if you’re short on overhead space but you have plenty of ground space to cover, you can choose a sprawling or shrub willow. Many varieties work well for hedges and privacy walls. 

In What Parts of the United States, Do Willow Trees Grow?

Willow trees grow throughout the United States, as far north as Ontario and as far south as Georgia, Alabama, Louisiana. They do best in states east of the Mississippi. 

However, many people successfully plant willow variations throughout the Midwest as far as Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, and even southern and central California.

What Types of Caterpillars & Bugs Eat Willow Trees?

Multiple types of insects like to feast on Willow tree species. Aphids pierce the leaves and stems, sucking out the juices and nutrients. Unfortunately, these pests are a year-round problem in some locations, so you’ll need to do regular exams of your trees. Parasitic wasps and lady beetles are helpful ways to treat aphid infestations.

Spider mites also enjoy feeding on willow trees. When a willow tree gains an extensive collection of these insects, severe harm can occur. The most common sign of spider mites is leaves with speckled gray spots. It’s best to use lady beetles and keep your willows well-watered to treat and prevent spider mite infections. 

Gypsy moths are a considerable danger that can decimate a willow tree once infected. Once female moths lay eggs on a willow tree, the hatched larvae will feed on the foliage night and day until the tree is bare. Covering the trunk with duct tape covered in Vaseline or tar paper can stop larvae from crawling up the tree. 

Carpenterworms bore through the willow’s trunk, causing blocks that prevent nutrients and water from flowing through the tree properly – referred to as girdling. These caterpillars start as brownish-red caterpillars. Adding nematodes to the dirt around your tree can treat infestations.

How Many Types of Willow Tree Varieties & Species Are There?

There are over 400 species that fall under the Willow tree umbrella of the genus Salix. These deciduous plants are also called osiers (tall with narrow leaves) or sallows (shrubs and small trees) and can classify as trees or shrubs. 

It’s hard to correctly identify the exact number of species because many types can breed with willows of other species. It can be difficult to identify many species by sight due to so many similarities. 

What Are the Most Popular Types of Willow Trees & Shrubs?

There are quite a few popular willow trees and shrubs. Trees are larger in height and width, while shrubs are often short with bushy foliage. 

Willow Trees

The most well-known willow tree is the weeping willow, a magnificent towering behemoth that reaches 40 feet and a spread of 30 feet.

The peach-leaf willow is another famous large tree that grows to a maximum height of 50 feet with glorious yellow drooping limbs. 

Two willow species that commonly get confused due to name are the American pussy willow and the goat willow, which some refer to as a pussy willow. Both get up to 25 feet tall. 

The corkscrew willow is another giant tree that gets up to 40 feet in height and spread. These trees have interesting branch twists and go well in winter landscapes. 

Willow bushes

Dappled willows are small trees that barely reach six feet in height, with pink, white, and soft green foliage. In winter, the branches turn a bright red. 

The Purple Osier willow is another favorite for landscaping due to its beautiful purple stems and blue-tinted purple leaves. This tree tops out at ten feet and tolerates shade and dry soil. 

How Big Are Willow Trees?

Willow trees vary in height and width by species. Some varieties only grow a few inches above ground level, spreading out more than up. 

Then there are gigantic trees which require a lot of space height-wise and width-wise. All willow trees will need enough space around them that the roots don’t encounter anything it can harm.

The height for willow trees can range from two inches tall up to sixty feet tall. The canopy spread or how wide the tree is can vary from a foot up to forty feet. 

Willow Tree Identification Tips

Many variations of willow trees can be tricky to distinguish from each other from a simple glance. It often takes a closer examination to view specific details to help identify the exact species. Try these willow tree identification tips.

  • Trees are identifiable due to lance-shaped (lanceolate) leaves with light feathery veins and serrated leaf edges.
  • Willow trees are also the first trees to produce leaves in the spring. 
  • Osier (basket) willows have long, narrow leaves, narrow canopy spreads, and medium heights. 
  • Sallows have oval leaves with toothed edges. 
  • Weeping willow species have cascading branches that fall in curtains around the trunk, nearly reaching the ground. 
  • Pussy willows are identifiable by their fuzzy catkins that start as gray, then turn yellow and form flowers
  • Goat willows classify as a follow and are identifiable due to their broader leaves and locations in damp environments.

What is the difference between a willow tree and a weeping willow tree?

A weeping willow tree has branches and leaves that droop down towards the ground. When the wind blows, these flexible limbs can dance with the storm, although they may experience damage from severe winds. 

But not all willow trees classify as weeping. Many species grow upright, with many branches spreading out into wide canopies, or growing short and dense as shrubs, or even grown to crawl along the ground through rocks. 

Conclusion

Willow trees are majestic, water-loving trees that grow well in various soil conditions, USDA hardiness zones (and throughout the world), and have benefits such as erosion control, privacy, and ground cover. However, you have to use caution when planting most willow trees, as the aggressive root systems will attack any moisture nearby, no matter the source. 

The 16 Top Toilet Brands

With so many styles and models of toilets available, it can be a challenge knowing which are the best toilet brands. We take a tour of 16 well-known names, giving you a brief history and a roundup of what makes them so special. 

Some names you will know, and others may not be so familiar. Let’s kick off with one of the best-known brands:

The 16 Top Toilet Brands

1. American Standard

American Standard has a long and illustrious history that spans 140 years. They are one of the big names in the toilet industry, supplying both commercial and private customers. 

They started life in 1875 when the Standard Sanitary Manufacturing Company was founded. Sales went from strength to strength, and by 1929 they were the largest manufacturer of bathroom fixtures in the world. 

In the same year, the Standard Sanitary Manufacturing Company merged with the American Radiator Company to form the catchily-named American Radiator and Standard Sanitary Corporation. By 1967, it became American Standard. 

Today, the company has many brands under its wing, and they operate globally, selling everything from bathroom products, plumbing, furnaces, and heating, and so much more.  

2. Duravit

Duravit has an even longer history than American Standard. It started life in Germany in 1817 when Georg Friedrich Horn started an earthenware company. 

In 1956, the company branched into ceramic earthenware, and the Duravit brand was born. Today the company employs more than 5,000 people globally, with 10 manufacturing plants. 

They make washbasins, showers, bathtubs, toilets, and bidets, as well as a host of accessories like showerheads and faucets. Duravit has a long tradition of quality, and they maintain their handmade feel even with their high-tech manufacturing processes.

3. Kohler

John Michael Kohler was an Austrian immigrant who purchased a foundry in Wisconsin in 1873. Initially, the company made steel and cast-iron products, but it was Kohler who created his first cast-iron bath with free-standing clawed feet. 

This was entirely an accident as he had intended it to be a horse trough, but suddenly, he found himself in the plumbing business. 

Today, Kohler has grown into a global name, with 50 brands under their flag, 48 manufacturing plants on 6 continents, and over 33,000 associates worldwide. 

It produces everything from motors and engines to faucets, plumbing, heating, and of course, sanitary products like toilets. 

4. Jacuzzi

Jacuzzi is another brand that started life as the result of 7 Italian brothers emigrating to California at the start of the 20th century.

In 1956, the Jacuzzi brothers decided to invent a water massage system to help treat the arthritis of one of their relatives, and so the jet bath was born. 

It started as a small J-300 pump, initially sold to hospitals and other facilities to convert existing bathtubs into massaging therapies. 

Today, the name is synonymous with whirlpool baths, and the Jacuzzi brand has also branched into general bathroom ware and fittings, like basins, showers, both standard and jet baths, and toilets.  

5. Sterling

Sterling was founded in 1907, manufacturing bathroom fittings and faucets. In 1984, Kohler acquired the company, and it has been part of the Kohler family of brands ever since. 

They provide a mid-price option and are recognized worldwide as a stand-alone brand name in their own right. They specialize in bathroom and kitchen fixtures. Sterling makes toilets that are functional, modern in design, and excellent value for money.

6. Toto

Toto is a Japanese company that started life in 1912. By 1914, they had developed Japan’s first seated flushing toilet. This tradition of innovation has continued throughout the company’s life, culminating in their much-acclaimed Washlet. 

Launched in 1980, the Washlet ramped up the luxury of standard toilet seats by including a bidet function with jets of warm water.  The Washlet is still as popular today.

From kitchens, bathroom accessories, and innovative ideas like coatings that keep toilets sparkling clean to the Tornado flush, Toto is up there with the best toilet manufacturers in the world. 

7. Eago

Eago is a relative newcomer to the bathroom and toilet production world. They were founded in 1996, and have grown into an internationally recognized brand, with a 250,000 square foot facility in Guangdong, China. 

The company has an environmental awareness and champions dual-flush eco-toilets that use a fraction of the water compared to standard toilets. 

They are famed for their sleek and modern designs that enhance your bathroom space. Their product range includes dual and single flush toilets, bathtubs, washbasins, and showers. 

8. Niagara Conservation

Bill Cutler started Niagara in his garage in 1977. He wanted to produce a showerhead that was both simple and water-saving. He developed the Niagara showerhead, and 40 years later, the company is a multi-million dollar concern. 

In New York alone, there are over 1.3 million Niagara toilets in use, saving millions of gallons of water. Other utility companies and energy management officials showed interest and used Bill’s knowledge for water conservation as a bedrock for their future planning. 

Today, Niagara is at the forefront of design and technology to save water consumption, leading the way where many imitate and try and follow. They specialize in toilets, showerheads, and aerators. 

9. Saniflo

Saniflo toilets are the ultimate install-anywhere toilet systems. They give you the option to convert a spare room into an ensuite or even put a toilet in the basement, below the sewer line. 

Saniflo started in 1958 when they developed the first toilet macerator, which chews up solid waste and pumps it along narrow pipework to the sewer. The beauty of the Saniflo system is it doesn’t need gravity to flush matter away, unlike traditional toilets. 

It means you can install them virtually anywhere. You can even tap into the water supply of your bathtub and wash basin, increasing their flexibility. 

The only downside with Saniflo is the macerator gets blocked with heavy use, and they cost a small fortune. So, unless you need a macerating toilet, stick with the traditional models. 

10. Gerber

Polish immigrant Max Gerber started the company in 1932 with a vision of customer care and quality. Those values have lasted, and today, the company is a leading bathroom and toilet manufacturer in North America. 

Gerber sells everything from kitchen collections, showers, toilets, and wash basins to commercial urinals and other fixtures. 

While Gerber may not be one of the bigger names, they are still a reputable company with a great range of products. 

11. ANZZI

Anzzi is a name synonymous with contemporary styling for modern, sleek bathrooms. They have kitchen collections, showers, and complete bathroom designs to suit most tastes. 

Their high quality and eye for design mean they command a respectable price for their products, so if you are looking for a budget option, Anzzi might be a little too expensive for you. 

12. Zurn

John A. Zurn bought the patent for a valve system that prevented storm and wastewater from flowing back into drainage systems. From such humble beginnings, Zurn has grown into a 400 strong company spanning 9 divisions and 9 locations. 

During the second world war, Zurn switched focus to manufacture boilers and other items for the allied war effort. Zurn was one of only 5 percent of companies to win the coveted “E” award for excellence in wartime production. 

Today, they trade under the parent company Rexnord, which acquired Zurn in 2007, and they specialize in HVAC systems, toilets, and other bathroom fixtures, as well as flush valves. 

13 Woodbridge

Woodbridge is a relatively small company compared to American Standard and Kohler. It is also a newcomer to the industry, starting life in 2005 to manufacture and distribute high-quality bathroom fittings across the globe.

Today, they make bidets, toilets, bathtubs, showers, and wash hand basins. They specialize in sleek designs that would fit any modern styling, so if you want to get the minimalist look, Woodbridge toilets could be a great starting point.  

14. Delta

Delta has a range of 38 toilets and accessories. They also specialize in bathtubs, sinks, faucets, and kitchen taps. The company started out as the Delta Faucet Company, owned by the Masco Screw Corporation. 

Armenian immigrant Alex Manoogian was the brains behind the operation, and in 1952, he was presented with the first one-handled hot and cold mixer tap. He bought the rights to the faucet and improved the design. 

It proved so popular it was much copied and you can still buy spare parts for the 1962 design. Delta grew over the decades, opening a facility in Greensburg, Indiana, in 1958. 

Delta has always innovated, producing hands-free faucets and their latest designs include voice-activated taps that respond to verbal commands. 

Today, they sell toilets and bathtubs, plus shower enclosures, and specialize in technological and faucet advancement. 

15. Swiss Madison

Swiss Madison is another manufacturer of ultra-modern toilet and bathroom designs. They sell everything from lavatories, bathtubs, kitchen and bathroom sinks, vanities, and shower enclosures. They are your one-stop-shop for all things bathroom. 

Much like Woodbridge, if you like clean lines, unfussy design, and the minimalist look, Swiss Madison is a great option. And their prices are pretty reasonable too!

16. Cotto

Cotto is a Thai-owned company with global ambitions. It has a vast range of toilets and accessories, topping over 150 products. You can also get bathtubs, kitchens, and even floor and wall tiles. 

It started in 1979 as the SCG Group selling tiles and grout for bathroom and kitchen remodels. In 1984, they teamed up with Toto to manufacture and distribute the finest quality sanitary ware. 

Today, they have established a global brand with facilities in Europe and Asia. 

Toilet Brands FAQ

What are the best brands of toilets?

This is a subjective question because it comes down to a matter of taste and budget. Companies like ANZZI and Woodbridge specialize in ultra-chic, modern designs with smooth lines and minimalist contours. 

The most popular brands are American Standard and Kohler. These two companies seem to dominate the North American markets with the largest collections of products. Jacuzzi is another well-known brand that sells high-end jet baths. 

Price plays a part when selecting the best brands. Some of the highest sales numbers on Amazon are the cheapest toilets, but that doesn’t reflect their quality. 

One of the most expensive toilets to buy is Saniflo. They are specialist systems that install almost anywhere, even below the sewer line, thanks to the macerator and pump. 

What are the top 10 toilets?

According to the sales numbers on Amazon.com. The best selling toilets are:

What companies make toilets?

All of the above companies make toilets. Many also make every bathroom accessory you can think of, and some even sell kitchens and tiles.

What toilet do plumbers recommend?

When you want to get the best, look for recommendations from the professionals. Some brands stand out and win the acclaim of plumber’s throughout the industry. 

Top of the list is the Toto Ultramax Eco. It’s powerful, has water-saving qualities, and looks stylish. The second most recommended toilet by professionals is the American Standard Champion 4 one-piece. 

Other notable mentions go to Kohler, Swiss Madison, and the Woodbridge T-0001 Dual Flush one-Piece toilet. 

Choose Wisely

The 16 brands listed here are the most well-known brands in North America. It is not an exhaustive list, but it covers every brand worth your attention, but when you boil it down, it always comes down to budget. 

Choosing the toilet that matches your style is also important. If you want to create that boutique hotel bathroom look, think about ANZZI, Woodbridge, or Swiss Madison. If you like a more traditional look, a Toto 2-piece is a great choice. 

9 Best Utility Sinks For Your Laundry Room

Having an extra sink in your laundry room, mudroom, garage, or utility room provides many benefits, most notably keeping your home clean.

There are many uses for utility sinks, just as there are many options. In this buyer’s guide, we’re going to review the ten best utility sinks, including features, benefits, and downsides. We then give an in-depth reference for everything you need to know about utility sinks, aka laundry tubs. 

The 10 Best Utility Sink Options

1. Heavy Duty Black Utility Sink 

All Black Utility Sink with High Arc Black Kitchen Faucet By VETTA, Pull Down Sprayer Spout, Heavy Duty Slop Sinks for Washing Room, Basement, Garage, or Shop, Free Standing Laundry Tub Deep Plastic

  • BRING PRACTICALITY AND CONVENIENCE TO YOUR LAUNDRY ROOM with this complete upgraded all black VETTA freestanding utility tub set. Match with the rest of your space from top to bottom with an updated and improved black combination material faucet, sturdy legs, and our classic tub. Who knew a wash sink could look so good?

First on our list of the best utility sinks is this black (white or gray also available) freestanding laundry tub by Vetta. This standalone utility sink features a 16” H x 9” W high arc pull down (10” reach) faucet spout for easy cleaning by toggling between a powerful spray or a steady stream. 

This 23.5” W x 22.875” L x 14” D utility tub is thermoplastic, making it durable enough for versatile usage. The 13” deep basin has a 19-gallon capacity, giving you plenty of room for presoaking or washing laundry or oversized items. 

Adjustable foot levels on the sturdy metal legs ensure your sink stays stable and even, despite an uneven floor. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For an attractive freestanding sink with a pull-out faucet nozzle, consider this Heavy Duty Black Utility Sink by Vetta.

2. Trinity Stainless Steel Utility Sink

The Trinity Stainless Steel Utility sink consists of 18-gauge 304 stainless steel material – corrosion, rust, and scratch-resistant. 

The sink basin is 18” W x 16” D x 13” H with a 300-pound weight capacity, 6” backsplash, a stainless steel strainer, and a chrome single-handle faucet. A raised rib area along the back allows for easy storage of accessories. 

This freestanding sink rests on four 18-gauge 201 stainless steel legs with pre-installed plastic levelers to keep the sink steady and even on uneven ground. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

If you’re looking for a compact, deep-basin stainless steel sink for your laundry room, garage, or utility room, you can’t go wrong with this sink from Trinity. 

3. White Chrome Utility Sink

White Utility Sink Laundry Tub With Pull Out Chrome Faucet, Sprayer Spout, Heavy Duty Slop Sinks For Washing Room, Basement, Garage or Shop, Large Free Standing Wash Station Tubs and Drainage (White)

  • WORK DOESN’T STAND A CHANCE WITH THIS CLASSIC WHITE UTILITY SINK. Adds practicality to any laundry room, mudroom, washroom, service closet or workshop. Match your white washer and dryer or lighter decor. Complete tub kit includes white tub, non-metallic double handle pull out faucet, adjustable leveler legs, stainless steel supply lines, PVC pipe drain connection with p trap, thread tape, washers, nuts and rubber drain stopper plug.

This 22 ⅞” W x 23 ⅜” D x 33 ¾” H white thermoplastic freestanding utility sink by LDR Industries features a chrome-plated double-handle 7” pull-down faucet to use this sink as a slop sink, fill up buckets, or bathe small pets. 

Adjustable levers on the feet allow you to set the perfect height and level the tub out on the uneven ground. A small ledge near the faucet holds small cleaning supplies, while a molded drain prevents leaks while ensuring proper draining. 

This 19-gallon sink is stain and rust-resistant while being durable enough for the heaviest jobs. You can set this sink up as freestanding using the legs, or you can mount it to a wall or drop-in (accessories not included). 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For a simple plastic utility sink to handle laundry, small pets, or cleaning, consider this option by LDR. 

4. LDR Laundry Utility Tub

LDR Industries 040 6000 Complete 19 gal Laundry Utility Tub with Pull Out Faucet

  • Update the look and add practicality to your laundry room or mudroom with this complete laundry tub set

This 19-gallon utility tub by LDR is another freestanding (floor or wall mounted with accessories bought separately) sink with a double-handle non-metallic faucet with a pull-out hose that allows for easier cleaning of pets and laundry. 

The heavy-duty thermoplastic construction allows this utility sink to be durable and rustproof, although some staining may occur. The faucet is 100% lead-free and features stream or spray functions.

When attached to the included metal legs, this sink has dimensions of 33 ¾” H x 22 ⅞” W x 23 ⅜” D. You can add screws to the legs to make this sink floor-mounted. Floor levelers on the bottom allow you to set an even height.

Benefits

Disadvantages

For a simplistic plastic utility sink for your laundry, utility, and mudrooms, consider this option by LDM. 

5. DuraSteel Prep & Utility Sink

Stainless Steel Prep & Utility Sink – DuraSteel 1 Compartment Commercial Kitchen Sink – NSF Certified – Single 15″ x 15″ Inner Tub with No Lead Faucet (Restaurant, Kitchen, Laundry, Garage)

  • Invest In A Long-Lasting Kitchen Sink: Made of NSF Certified 18 gauge 304 stainless steel, anti-rust and anti-corrosion, which will resist wear and tear at home or the busy commercial/utility kitchen

The DuraSteel NSF Certified 18 gauge 304 stainless steel one compartment sink is a 15” x 15” x 13” D (18” L x 18.5” W outside) freestanding utility sink that holds 11 gallons. 

The 8” high backsplash keeps water from staining your walls while the H-shaped legs allow for more stability, and the one-inch bullet feet are adjustable for uneven floors. 

A 3.5” diameter drain ensures fast drainage while the mounted double handle faucet extends 6”. The spout does not swivel or pull out. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

The DuraSteel utility sink works in laundry rooms and garages where space is minimal, and you don’t need a wide sink. 

6. Ruvati Topmount Deep Utility Sink

Ruvati Topmount Laundry 22″ x 22″ x 12″ Deep Utility Sink 16 Gauge Stainless Steel – RVU6022

  • Topmount Installation: 1-inch wide and 1/4-inch high rim all around for a solid overmount look | 16 GAUGE thick premium T-304 grade stainless steel will never rust or stain

The Ruvati Topmount Deep Utility Sink is the perfect drop-in for laundry rooms, mudrooms, and garages. This sink has a 1” W x ¼” H rim that overlaps a counter or flat space for an inset look.

The 16 gauge premium T-304 stainless steel is rust and stain resistant with a brushed finish that blends perfectly with stainless steel appliances. The sharp inside corners create zero radius for a modern-inspired aesthetic. 

Grooves and a slope allow the sink to drain entirely while sound guard padding and an undercoat block noises. The exterior size is 22” W x 22” L, and the interior is 20” W x 18” L x 12” D. There will need to be a minimum of 24” for the base cabinet. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For the best drop-in rectangular sink with a deep bowl and a wide width that can soak clothes, fill mop buckets, wash large items, or bathe pets, the Ruvati Topmount utility sink is your pick.

7. Jackson Supplies White Utility Sink Laundry Tub

JS Jackson Supplies White Utility Sink Laundry Tub with High Arc Stainless Steel Kitchen Faucet, Pull Down Sprayer Spout, Heavy Duty Slop Sinks for Basement, Garage, or Shop Free Standing Wash Station

  • Complete Laundry Tub Set: Bring practicality and convenience into your laundry room with this complete upgraded JS Jackson Supplies utility tub set; now constructed from durable metal and ABS plastic for long term usage. Updated and improved faucet is constructed with a metal base, handles and metal coated shanks for long lasting, quality use. The high-end kitchen faucet adds style and greater functionality than a regular laundry faucet.

The JS Jackson Supplies utility sink is ABS plastic with a durable stainless metal-based (or chrome) faucet with metal-coated shanks and handles with a 10” pull-down faucet with two modes – aeration or spray.

The white plastic basin has an extra-large capacity of 19 gallons, allowing you to soak and wash nearly any sized item. The four metal legs are adjustable for even leveling. 

You can also use this product for a slop sink to rinse off small children, tools, pets, or outdoor kitchen supplies. This sink has dimensions of 33 ¾” H (with legs) x 22 ⅞” W x 23 ⅜” D. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For an extra-large capacity sink to use for cleaning, slop, or bathing pets, give the Jackson Supplies White Utility sink.

8. Vetta Utility Sink

VETTA White Utility Sink Laundry Tub With High Arc Black Kitchen Faucet By VETTA – Pull Down Sprayer Spout, Heavy Duty Slop Sinks For Washing Room, Basement, Garage, or Shop, Free Standing Tubs

  • BRING PRACTICALITY AND CONVENIENCE INTO YOUR LAUNDRY ROOM with this complete upgraded VETTA freestanding utility tub set; now constructed from durable metal and plastic for long term usage. Updated and improved black combination material faucet. The high end pull down kitchen faucet adds style and greater functionality than a regular laundry faucet. Includes supply lines and drainage.

This Vetta freestanding Utility sink comes in three color choices – black, gray, or white thermoplastic. This 19-gallon sink serves versatile use from soaking and washing laundry to using as a slop sink for dirty mop water and pets.

The pull-down faucet has two settings – spray or aerate with a 10” reach. When assembled using the included metal legs, this sink stands 33 ¾” H x 22 ⅞” W x 23 ⅜” D and 23.2 pounds. 

This sink comes with all the necessary equipment for assembly, but you will need to punch out the holes for the faucet to connect. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For a large capacity utility sink for basements, laundry rooms, utility rooms, garages, or workshops, try this pick by Vetta.

9. Jackson Supplies Black Faucet Utility Sink Laundry Tub 

Utility Sink Laundry Tub with Pull Out Duel Setting Faucet by JS Jackson Supplies, Heavy Duty Slop Sinks for Basement, Laundry Room, Garage or Shop, Large Free Standing Wash Station (Black Faucet)

  • IMPROVED LEG DESIGN. Our classic tub now with thicker legs. Our new black legs are 40% thicker than our standard grey legs. These thicker legs ensure for a more secure and stable fit. Legs come in a satin black finish. Floor levelers are also included to assure that you tub sits flat on the ground. We think you will be pleased with the improvements that we have made.

Another suitable utility sink by Jackson Supplies is this dual-handle freestanding laundry tub, available with a white tub and black faucet, white tub, and chrome faucet, or white tub and thick stainless steel faucet and black satin-finished tapered metal legs.

A small ledge near the faucet allows for soap, sponges, or other small items. The 9.5” wide crane neck faucet allows for a steady stream, while you can use the separate 11” sprayer to spot treat with a hard pulse.

The heavy-duty ABS thermoplastic is durable, stain, and rust-resistant and won’t scratch or scuff easily. When assembled using the included legs, this laundry tub is 22 ⅞” L x 23 ⅜” W x 33 ¾” H with a 14” deep basin. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

What Are Utility Sinks?

Utility sinks – sometimes referred to as utility tubs or laundry sinks – are heavy-duty sinks located in laundry rooms, mudrooms, and garages. 

These versatile sinks have various uses, including hand washing or presoaking clothes to fill up and dump mop buckets, cleaning tools, muddy shoes, or bathing small pets. 

Types of Utility Sinks

Laundry sinks come in multiple styles and materials, so you’ll need to take the time to figure out which type best suits your needs. The common types are:

Drop-In

A drop-in sink goes into a hole cut into a countertop so that the rim of the sink rests flush against or slightly overlapping the counter. 

If you don’t have counter space in your laundry or utility room, you may want to consider another type of sink. Or you can take up valuable floor space and spend money to install an appropriate base. 

Undermount

Undermount sinks rest completely under the sink with no visible edges, allowing for easier cleaning by wiping messes directly into the sink without the hassle of a raised rim. 

This style provides a minimalistic or contemporary look and comes in various sizes and shapes to match any environment.

Wall-Mount

Wall-mounted utility sinks are the perfect solution for laundry rooms without existing counter space to place an under-mount or drop-in sink. 

You can find options that work as a standalone piece mounted on the wall while leaving space underneath for storage or other usable floor space. 

Floor Mount

Floor mounted utility tubs and sinks are standalone pieces that do not attach to a wall or counter. These sinks are ideal in rooms with limited space because they do not connect to anything.

This style features legs that support the sink base. As long as your plumbing can reach, you can set these up anywhere in the space.

Portable

Portable utility sinks can move from one area to another by use of attached casters or wheels. The connected supply lines can mate with any existing plumbing, allowing for versatile use.

If you want a sink that you can bring outside to wash items, so there’s a minimal mess to your laundry room, a portable utility tub might be your preferred type. 

Pros and Cons of Utility Sinks

There are many benefits of installing a utility sink in your mudroom, laundry room, or garage. Some of the most significant advantages are:

The most considerable disadvantage of a utility sink is that it usually takes up a lot of crucial space in your laundry room or utility area. If your room is compact, you may have limitations on the type of sink you can install. 

Another disadvantage is that utility sinks are often more expensive due to their larger size than standard sinks. While you’ll save money by purchasing one made of plastic, it may not stand up as well against use and stains as a stainless steel sink. 

Utility Sink Materials and Mounting

Similar to how there are multiple types of utility sinks, so too are there numerous material choices. It’s crucial to consider the benefits and disadvantages of each material before making a decision. 

Plastic

Plastic sinks are cost-effective and affordable with multiple benefits. Plastic can be a durable product that will resist wearing against everyday, regular use, and it’s easy to clean and maintain. 

But heat and some types of chemicals can cause damage or stains. Plastic is lightweight and can come in a wide range of color options. 

Stainless Steel 

Stainless steel sinks are incredibly durable, and unlike plastics, they can resist heavy use, chemicals, and heat. You can find this material in multiple types of finishes. The most significant disadvantage of stainless steel is that it’s more expensive.

This type of heavy-duty sink can work for indoor or outdoor spaces due to its rust and corrosion resistance, making it perfect for laundry rooms, patios, or outdoor mudrooms. 

Cast Iron

Cast Iron sinks are heavier than other materials, making them unsuitable for wall mounts. This style is more traditional, so it goes great with retro decor.

While durable and capable of handling laundry room duties, this material does need a coat of enamel periodically applied to keep the iron resistant to scratches, harsh chemicals, cleaners, and heat.

Porcelain

Porcelain is another strong, durable material suitable for the harsh labors of laundry and utility rooms due to its heat and chemical resistance. 

This style is most common for drop-in and under-mount style sinks. However, this type may not be the best for cleaning heavy items, as the material can scratch or damage if impacted by heavy objects. Porcelain also has a higher chance of staining. 

Acrylic and Fiberglass

Both fiberglass and acrylic materials work well for utility tubs and sinks. These durable, light non-porous materials won’t absorb stains and are easy to clean.

You can find these in various styles, colors, and shapes, allowing you to customize your utility and laundry rooms or garages to your style.  

Considerations for Choosing the Best Utility Sink

When shopping for a utility sink, it helps to know what factors you need to compare. When you know the criteria and your needs, you can have a more prosperous and satisfactory shopping experience. 

Depth and Size

Most utility sinks are more significant than the other sinks in your house. This expanded space makes it easier to clean large items that might be challenging to wash in the washing machine.

Consider what uses your utility sink will have to figure out what size you’d need. While looking at different options, pay attention to the width (side to side), length (back to front), and depth. 

If your most significant need is a place to wash your hands or wash small items, a small sink will suffice. But if you’re looking for a sink that can fit your pets during bathtime, you’ll want one with extra depth and width to accommodate your pups without water sloshing over the sides.

Some options have additional features like extended washboards, bucket hooks, soap dishes, basin dividers, or drainboards. Be sure you consider how these features affect the size of the actual basin.

Mounting

Next, you’ll want to consider how the sink will mount (or not) and how this will affect the layout and aesthetic of your room. You’ll need an existing countertop (or install one) for under-mount and drop-in sinks, which can reduce the amount of space you have in your room. 

Wall-mounted sinks can free up floor space, but you lose wall space. And you have to place these appropriately to ensure a sturdy hold, which may limit installation. Freestanding sinks are easy to set up, but they’re usually smaller, the same for portable options.

Materials

The materials of the sink will significantly affect your decision-making. The sink you choose should be able to withstand scratches, abrasions, stains, dents, and other signs of use. 

The most common materials are plastic, stainless steel, or cast iron. Options that have a finish that makes them scratch-resistant will extend your sink’s lifespan. There are even some models that have sound-deadening technology, which keeps your sink quiet during use.

Drain Location

Most utility sinks will have a center drain, but there are options with drains set left or right off-center. In many cases, an offset drain allows the sink to have more versatile use, as you can store items on one side while rinsing or draining them on the other.

That said, center drains do drain faster and more efficiently than offset drains due to the slope of the bottom of the sink. 

Weight

Weight is another factor to consider. Heavier sinks will need more support during installation, so they don’t risk detaching, potentially damaging your structure. 

The larger the sink, the more it will weigh. The material type will also affect weight. Plastic is a lightweight option, while cast iron and stainless steel will need more support when wall or under-mounted. 

Best Utility Sink FAQ

What is the best material for a utility sink?

Acrylic or stainless steel are the best materials for utility sinks due to their high durability and resistance to rust, scratches, and other damage. However, thermoplastic is another durable, more affordable option. 

What is the best laundry tub?

The Trinity utility sink (#3 on our list) is one of the best laundry tubs due to its size, large weight limit, and maximum quantity capacity. 

How much does it cost to have a utility sink installed?

The average cost to install a utility sink ranges around $200 for a simple install. If the plumber has to install drains or vent pipes, the price can go as high as $500 to $1,000.

Do you really need a laundry sink?

A laundry sink isn’t crucial, but it can make your life easier. These sinks are great for rinsing off dirty items before putting them into the washer. Depending on the size, you can also rinse off pets, presoak clothes, and any other tasks you don’t want to do in your home.

Conclusion

There are many types of utility sinks available. These options can vary by size, shape, mount, material, color, and use. We’ve provided you with ten choices for the best utility sinks for your laundry room, garage, mudroom, utility room, and more. 

Best Concrete Stain for Your Next DIY Project

If you’re tired of plain, dull gray concrete, you may be leaning towards staining your floors. Staining is an excellent way to give your concrete surface some color without dealing with peeling, flaking, or fading.

In this guide, we’re going to review the ten best concrete stains for DIY. We’ll also provide an in-depth buyer’s guide that will inform you of everything you need to know about shopping for and applying concrete stain to your concrete surfaces. 

Table of Contents

The 10 Best Concrete Stains for DIY

We’ll kick things off by providing a quick review of ten of the best stains for DIYing your concrete floors, including features, benefits, and disadvantages. 

1. Concrete Stain Concentrate – Just Add Water

Concrete Stain Concentrate Just Add Water, User & Eco-Friendly Semi-Transparent Professional Grade Cement Stain, Concrete Resurrection Brand (32 ounce, Mocha)

  • The Shortest and Easiest Route to dazzling concrete surfaces is with Water-Borne Water Reducible Concentrate. Quality ingredients. Formulated Fresh to Your Door

Concrete Resurrection offers this eight or 32-ounce semi-transparent water-based concrete stain in 34 color choices. You can use this stain for pool decks, driveways, patios, concrete floors, or counters. You can even apply multiple colors to create a unique mottled, marbling variegated effect.

This stain is environmentally friendly with low odors. To use this product, follow the instructions to mix in the appropriate distilled water amount. You’ll need to apply a top coat of sealant after the stain dries. The application can be done with a sea sponge, pump sprayer, roller, or rag.

Benefits

Disadvantages

For a wide range of color options beyond natural shades, consider the easy-to-mix Concrete Resurrection concrete stain. 

2. Concrete Resurrection Concrete Acid Stain Semi-Transparent

Concrete Acid StainSemi-Transparent Professional Grade Cement Stain (1 Gallon, Black Walnut)

  • Concrete Resurrection Acid stain is ideal for concrete floors, pool decks, patios, driveways and anywhere you have concrete you want to make beautiful.

Concrete Resurrection also produces acid-based stains, such as this semi-transparent, professional-grade stain, available in 16 ounces or 1-gallon containers in twelve natural color options.

You can achieve a variegated, mottled, leathery, or marbleized look using this stain. However, you may end up with differently-shaded sections due to the chemical reaction rather than a solid matching look. Because you’re dealing with acid, this product requires special handling. Indoors, you can only use it in well-ventilated areas, so it might not be ideal for basements. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

This acid-based concrete stain by Concrete Resurrection, available in twelve colors, is ideal for creating a marbled look. 

3. Vivid Acid Stain – Weathered Terracotta

If you want to create a concrete floor that resembles a weathered terracotta (reddish-orange), this Vivid acid stain by Concrete Coatings is just the ticket.

This acid will etch your concrete with unique, multi-colored effects, which can be challenging to replicate, making this solution better for concrete surfaces where you aren’t trying to achieve a uniform look. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

If you’re looking for an acid stain that will match your terracotta home, the Vivid acid stain by Concrete Coatings is suitable for you.

4. INSL-X Tuffcrete Waterborne Acrylic Concrete Stain Paint

INSL-X CST231009A-01 TuffCrete Waterborne Acrylic Concrete Stain Paint, 1 Gallon, Light Gray

  • Acrylic concrete, stucco, and brick paint coating designed for application to interior or exterior, vertical, or horizontal masonry surfaces.

The INSL-X Tuffcrete concrete stain is a waterborne acrylic that can adhere to brick, stucco, and concrete for outdoor or indoor use on vertical or horizontal surfaces.

Use one coat if you want to stain your surface, or apply two coats for complete opaqueness. You can choose from desert sand, white, light gray, gray pearl, or clear. In addition to waterproofing your surface, this stain is resistant to scuffs, abrasions, dust, spills, and fading.

Benefits

Disadvantages

If you’re looking for a concrete stain that can work on multiple porous services for a complete match, try this acrylic option from INSL-X.

5. BrandBold Brilliance Concrete Acid Stain

BrandBold Brilliance Concrete Acid Stain – Graphite Gray (Dark Charcoal Brown) – 1 Gallon – Step 2

  • Step 2 of 4 in Concrete Acid Stain Process; Cost effective; LEED Compliant; Maintenance free

Another suitable acid stain product is the Brilliance line by BrandBold. This acid stain comes in fourteen natural color options, ranging from blues and greens to reds, browns, and grays.

This product produces a mottled, variegated, marbled appearance for indoor or outdoor use. You may not see the expected color after applying this stain, as it’s only the second step in a five-step process. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

The BrandBold Brilliance product line offers fourteen natural-looking colors for outdoor or indoor staining of concrete. 

6. U Do It Coatings Decorative Concrete Stain

U Do It Coatings makes it easy to achieve a fully completed decorative concrete stain floor in three steps – Etch (Prep), Stain (Decorate), and Seal (clear acrylic). This water-based stain comes in 18 colors with the option to purchase compatible etch and seal products. 

This decorative stain is suitable for indoor or outdoor use with UV stability and the ability to apply to damp concrete, making it great for garages, pools, jacuzzis, or concrete showers. You can even buy a four-ounce sample bottle to test the product’s color and performance on your surface before purchasing a large quantity. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

For a stain that’s compatible with an etch and sealant from the same brand, try this decorative concrete stain by U Do It Coatings.

7. Active Elements Concrete Acid Stain

Official Concrete Acid Stain penetrating Acid Stain for Concrete Surfaces Desert Fire (red, Brown, Terra Cotta) – 1 Gallon

  • WARNING, this is not concrete paint. This is acid stain and it works differently than paint.

This Desert Fire acid stain by Active Elements changes your concrete from a pale gray to a variegation of orange, brown, red, and terracotta. Older floors may get a marbling effect.

Due to being an acid-based product, you’ll need to use the correct precautions to apply this stain safely. It can work for indoor or outdoor use, making it ideal for garages, driveways, and patios where you want a uniquely mottled effect. 

Benefits

Disadvantages

Use the Desert Fire stain by Active Elements for any concrete surfaces where you want a blend of reds and browns in unique variations and marblings.

8. EnduraCoat Acid Stain DIY Kit

Acid Stain DIY Kit with 100% Acrylic Solvent Sealer

  • Contains all of the basic products necessary to acid stain concrete.

This acid-stain DIY kit by EnduraCoat comes with everything you need to complete the job of acid-staining your concrete. Available in six colors, this kit includes the stain of your choice, a container of 100% acrylic sealer, concrete cleaner/degreaser, and reactive stain neutralizer.

You can use this stain to create unique variegated, translucent shades for concrete indoors or outside that won’t crack, fade, peel, or chip over time. There may be cases where you’ll need to use a surface conditioner or coatings stripper for the stain to soak properly.

Benefits

Disadvantages

Save money and shop smarter by buying an EnduraCoat acid stain DIY kit with everything you could need to change your concrete to a different color.

9. Kemiko Stone Tone Concrete Stain

Kemiko Stone Tone Concrete Stain (Golden Wheat)

  • Non-fading, chipping or peeling premium concrete stain

For stone replica concrete stains, try Kemiko Stone tone decorative stain, available in nine shades to produce concrete floors that resemble multi-hued, glazed, or marble stone. 

This zero-VOC stain works for indoor or outdoor settings, including patios, walkways, dining areas, and driveways. The application can be made via sprayer or medium or stiff bristle brush.

Benefits

Disadvantages

Pick up any of the nine color options by Kemiko to transform your plain gray concrete into a replica of expensive stone for a fraction of the price.

10. Surecrete EcoStain Water-Based Concrete Stain

For a water-based, zero-VOC stain that’s eco-friendly, check out Surecrete’s inventory of concrete stains, such as this Titanium Gray. There are 31 colors in total. Not having to use ammonia allows you to stain and seal your concrete on the same day for quick job completion. 

To use, you mix with water, which can produce a variety of hues. You can also mix different colors to get a mottled effect. UV-stability allows this stain to work indoors or outside, making it great for patios, garages, basements, or any concrete surface, regardless of the lime content.

Benefits

Disadvantages

Choose the water-based Surecrete EcoStain concrete stain to treat your indoor or outdoor concrete areas with a semi-translucent stain.

What Is Concrete Stain?

A concrete stain is a product for permanently changing the color of the concrete by soaking it into the material. This type of stain is semi-transparent, and while it will give your concrete a new look, it will not hide problem areas.

You cannot use a concrete stain to hide cracks, blemishes, rough patches, or old colors. Any type of flaws will show through any stain used. Stains will also not soak into the concrete for full saturation if there is anything on the surface – grease, oil, glues, sealer, dirt, old coatings, or curing membranes.

What Is Concrete Acid Stain?

Concrete acid stains consist of a mixture of acid-soluble metallic salts, water, and hydrochloric acid. This solution penetrates the surface, causing a chemical reaction with calcium hydroxide (lime) – one concrete component. 

As the acid etches the concrete, the salts in the stain can penetrate the porous material better. Acid stains are limited to earth tones – terracotta, light blue-green, brown, or tan. Once you stain concrete, the color becomes permanent and will not peel, chip, or fade, unlike paint.  

What Is Water Based Concrete Stain?

Water-based concrete stains have a broader spectrum of color choices outside the natural shades of acid-based. In addition to black and white, you can often find manufacturers offering metallic tints and dozens of color options.

This type of non-reactive stain is a combination of acrylic pigments and polymers that also penetrate the concrete surface to give it a permanent new color without causing a chemical reaction. You can choose from translucent to opaque water-based stains. 

Where Can I Apply Concrete Stain?

You can use concrete stain in a variety of settings, including indoors and outside. However, you will need different features for each type of concrete. Let’s look at some of the best places to use concrete stains and what you’ll need to know beforehand.

Concrete Driveways

Staining your driveway is a great way to add to your home’s curb appeal. But it won’t help if your driveway is full of cracks, broken concrete, and holes. You can use water or acid-based stains to do a smooth, unflawed driveway, depending on the color and look you want to achieve. The most common stain colors for driveways are brown, black, and gray. 

Pool Deck

Concrete pool decks are also capable of holding a stain, allowing you to upgrade your tired concrete into a beckoning patio. There are multiple color options and the choice to use acid or water-based stains that have UV-protecting pigments. The most common colors are light brown, tan, or walnut neutral colors to match the pool border.

Concrete Patio

You can also treat concrete patios with acid or water-based stains. As with any concrete surface, it needs to be smooth and without flaws for the best results. And you’ll want a product that offers UV protection to extend your patio’s longevity.

Garage Floor

Staining a garage floor can be done with acid-based or with water-based stains with UV resistance. Many people choose water-based stains for garages due to the faster and easier application process, which can take a single day versus multiple days with acid-based. People also like that you have better control of the color outcome. 

Basement Floor

Because basements often have higher moisture concentrations, it can be challenging to get the right look when staining. Moisture in the concrete can cause the colors to dilute, resulting in lighter coloring. Acid-based stains will hold more color in these conditions than water-based.

Concrete Kitchen Counters

For concrete countertops in the kitchen, staining is possible, so long as the concrete hasn’t been cleaned with muriatic acid or heavy TSP (trisodium phosphate) or waterproofed. Acid stains cannot penetrate treated concrete. 

Concrete Shower Floor

Shower floors can take on new life with a coat of acid or water-based stains. However, you must use some precautions to avoid damage to your fixtures. The acid will damage metal, which includes your shower drain. Once the stain dries, you’ll need to top it with a penetrating sealer. Epoxy, polyurethane, and acrylic work well for these conditions.

Which Type of Concrete Stain Should I Use?

To decide which product to use, consider the uses of the stain. Will you be applying it for indoor or outdoor use? While acid stains do better under outdoor elements, you can use water-based stains if you reapply sealant frequently.

You’ll also want to consider your color preferences. If you want a natural look, acid-based stains will provide the right aesthetic. But if you want a bold shade, choose a water stain. 

Your experience level will also play a significant factor in your decision. If you’ve never stained concrete before, you would probably do better using a water-based stain. Acid-based stains are more dangerous and challenging to work with and often require specialized equipment you probably don’t have on hand.

What Are the Best Concrete Stain Colors?

Although there are limitless options for color choices regarding concrete stains, that doesn’t mean that every color will be popular. 

Acid-based stains generally have variegated earth shades. Water-based stains offer a wider variety of hues, such as orange, black, yellow, and white or custom shades. 

The most popular color choices are green, brown, tan, gray, blue, and terra cotta. You can also use multiple colors together to create a mottled pattern. 

How to Stain Concrete (Step-by-Step)

Staining your concrete surfaces doesn’t require many steps, but it can be labor-intensive and time-consuming. Although these four steps sound simple, your experience level will affect the actual degree of difficulty, as will the type of stain you’re using.

Step 1 – Clean the Area

Before cleaning, cover any brickwork or other surfaces you don’t want to be stained with plastic wrap or other protective layers.

Stains require a clean, dry (some products work on damp) concrete surface, so your first step is to use a pressure washer to remove any dirt, grease, paint, wax, and other debris. If you are using an acid-based stain, you’ll also need to etch the surface. 

Step 2 – Apply Stain

The type of stain you choose will affect the application process. Some options let you use a garden pump sprayer to apply the color. You may also be able to use a roller, a brush, a rag, or a sponge. You can also use an airless paint sprayer if you have one.

Let the surface dry before applying any additional coats of concrete stain until you reach the desired color. You usually have to wait a few hours between each extra coat.

Step 3 – Neutralize Stain and Clean Up

For your stain to set correctly when using acid-based products, you’ll need to neutralize the acid contents. Potential neutralizers include ammonia, TSP, and baking soda. Water-based stains will not need this step.

Use a degreaser and a brush to remove any residue from the floor, then rinse with clean water. Mop up the water or use a shop vac and repeat the process until the water runs clear, and wiping with a white cloth does not remove the color from the floor. 

Step 4 – Seal

Your final step is to apply a sealant over your stained concrete floor to seal in color and protect the surface. Sealants come in various glosses, durabilities, features, and shades. 

A clear sealant will enhance the floor’s color while repelling water, dirt, and wear-and-tear. Sealants can take up to two days to cure completely, varying by manufacturer.

Concrete Stain FAQ

What is the best concrete stain?

Our list features ten of the best concrete stains to use for your staining needs. Concrete Resurrection (#1) produces water-based and acid-based stains that are easy to mix and apply.  

Can I DIY My Concrete Stain Project?

Attempting to DIY a concrete stain project can be a risky job if you’re inexperienced. Due to the dangerous materials, most beginners should avoid trying acid-based stains. For beginners, water-based stains are safer and easier.

When Is the Best Time to Stain Concrete?

The sooner you stain concrete after it’s hardened, the better. Attempting to stain old concrete can result in poor results. 

Can old concrete be stained?

Old concrete can hold a stain if it’s properly cleaned, free of residue, greases, oil, or waxes. The surface also has to be porous enough to hold the dye. When using acid-based paints, there has to be enough lime content to create a chemical reaction. 

Is it better to paint or stain concrete?

Stains are easier to apply than paints, and they don’t crack, peel, or chip as the paint will do over time. But you may need to make more frequent applications to retain its vibrancy.

Conclusion

In the world of concrete stains, there are plenty of options. We’ve provided you with ten choices for the best concrete stain for DIY projects. We also covered all the essential data you’ll need when deciding on the correct concrete stain for your projects. Plus, we answered some frequently asked questions.